86 ford ranger

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Originally Posted By: antiqueshell
We have a neighbor (real genius) who just bought a used 1986 Ranger and even though it is a southern car (no salt, just a little rust) the vehicle is a piece of junk, auto transmission is slipping, engine stalls when hot, burning a LOT of oil, ect. Previously this same guy had a early mid 90s Chevy S10 which was decent then he sold it.

He isn't mechanically inclined except for basic oil changes...so he's probably spent at least 10 times what he spent to buy the piece of [censored], maybe 300 bucks?

Honestly how do these "trends" get started? I noticed that I've seen a number of people buying these exact junkers. Monkey see monkey doo? LOL


1983-88 Rangers are not inherently unreliable, in fact they can be quite reliable, but a 2.9L auto 4x4 is going to be a project no matter what at that age. That engine combined with that transmission just isn't is a good combo for something that needs to be a reliable DD. I'd buy a 2.9 4x4 in a heartbeat if I was in the market for a trail rig or toy, but not as a DD. If this was a 2WD, 2.3 or 2.0 5-speed, it might actually be a decent choice, though not very useful for a young family that doesn't need a truck.

My parents had a 1986 Ranger they bought new...2.3, Toyo Kogyo 5-speed, Super Cab, no A/C. It was rock solid reliable, but failed emissions tests routinely and only had 90 HP. Great truck, but for a daily driver 1993+ is really where it's at. Even the 1989 update (2nd gen) was a big step up from the 1983-88 trucks.

BTW, the engine stalling when hot is probably the TFI module.

I think the Panther suggestion is a good one. I know it gets thrown around a lot, but really it's not a bad choice for a family needing a $1000-$2000 car.
 
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
If i could find a decent crown vic i would buy it believe me i also think its a good suggestion


Go to a police auction dude. Guaranteed you'll find something.
 
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Find something newer if you want a reliable DD.
I got rid of my Saturns because they were not flat out reliable for my long commute. They were not bad, but there were surprise repairs and added costs. They were 1996 and 2000. 1986 is a weekend toy at best.


That's about as fair as saying all Russians drink vodka, or all Canadians own a chainsaw. There are certainly those who fit that statement, but not all do.

Over the many years I've been driving, and I drive quite a bit mind you, I've had a grand total of two breakdowns, and yes, one of those was in a 1980s car. I've probably driven 3 miles in a 1980s car for every 1 mile in a non-1980s car. From a reliability standpoint there is an advantage in knowing exactly what does and does not tend to break.

I think maybe Bill in Utah's niece could tell you how perfect the dependability of a new car is guaranteed to be. With newer vehicles there's more blind luck involved. With older vehicles, it can be more a case of getting out of it what you put into it.
 
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
I could do that but where do i get info about them


Well, if they are LEO cars, they'll all have been decently maintained. Price will depend on mileage, but you can expect any of them to be decent.
 
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
I could do that but where do i get info about them


If you go to http://www.auctionzip.com/ you can search for auctions in your area by zipcode. A lot of the auctions on that website are storage unit auctions though, and it may not have all of the municipal auctions in your area listed, so you may still need to call local municipalities to see when/where they auction vehicles off. It's a good place to start though.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Find something newer if you want a reliable DD.
I got rid of my Saturns because they were not flat out reliable for my long commute. They were not bad, but there were surprise repairs and added costs. They were 1996 and 2000. 1986 is a weekend toy at best.


That's about as fair as saying all Russians drink vodka, or all Canadians own a chainsaw. There are certainly those who fit that statement, but not all do.

Over the many years I've been driving, and I drive quite a bit mind you, I've had a grand total of two breakdowns, and yes, one of those was in a 1980s car. I've probably driven 3 miles in a 1980s car for every 1 mile in a non-1980s car. From a reliability standpoint there is an advantage in knowing exactly what does and does not tend to break.

I think maybe Bill in Utah's niece could tell you how perfect the dependability of a new car is guaranteed to be. With newer vehicles there's more blind luck involved. With older vehicles, it can be more a case of getting out of it what you put into it.


Between my wife and I, the only vehicle that required a tow was a 5 year old Civic. The rest were always able to drive themselves to the shop. And actually all them could have driven long past whatever ailed them—they never had serious drivetrain troubles.

Problem is, it’s the small issues that will drive you nuts. My VW needs work of some sort yearly. A day or two in the shop it seems. While that is “reliable” it’s still a headache. Older vehicles may not automatically break down more, but I think the general statement of “it’s going to need work” is pretty true. It may not strand you, but it’s still a day’s loss if it’s sitting in the shop getting repaired.
 
I don't think a 1986 Ranger 4WD is a good vehicle if you need a reliable DD. Lots of other cars in the $1500 price range that would be far better.

The police auction option is a good one....they seem to have a decent selection of rougher, high-mileage vehicles in your price range that can probably be kept going with minimal work.
 
Well i have yet to find much info aboyt local auctions in my area. Im going to liik at a 93 sentra today has 240000 miles but who knows
 
You're not likely to find a decent CVPI(Crown Vic Police Interceptor)at any auction for $1500...

I'd check Craigslist for older(Pre Y2K) Crown Vic & Grand Marquis... The '00-'03 will have timing chain guide issues by approx 150Kmi, so unless they've been replaced, stay away from those... '96 to '99 are the best ones with least issues, '95-earlier suffer from bad valve stem seals...

I've driven mostly Grand Marquis starting with a '86 model bought with 45K mi(this includes five total), only major issue was with a '93 that lost the transmission at 131Kmi(yes it used oil because of the valve stem seals)... Bought a rebuilt online for $800 & replaced trans myself, then sold it to a buddy a couple years later for $1200... Now close to 200Kmi, he's still driving it...
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
You're not likely to find a decent CVPI(Crown Vic Police Interceptor)at any auction for $1500...

I'd check Craigslist for older(Pre Y2K) Crown Vic & Grand Marquis... The '00-'03 will have timing chain guide issues by approx 150Kmi, so unless they've been replaced, stay away from those... '96 to '99 are the best ones with least issues, '95-earlier suffer from bad valve stem seals...

I've driven mostly Grand Marquis starting with a '86 model bought with 45K mi(this includes five total), only major issue was with a '93 that lost the transmission at 131Kmi(yes it used oil because of the valve stem seals)... Bought a rebuilt online for $800 & replaced trans myself, then sold it to a buddy a couple years later for $1200... Now close to 200Kmi, he's still driving it...


He may be able to find a high mileage '03 for around the 2K mark though, which is what I had in mind.
 
he's dorky enough to put a photo inset of the steering wheel in one of the other pictures. He knows washing it adds $100 to the value. You might have a hard time whittling him down.

OTOH I just sold a 94 SL2 for $1000 after listing it for $1100-- there were no takers as buyers search for "Max 1000".
 
"Passed MO safety inspection in 2010, but it has failed recently when inspected. FYI"

Need to know why it failed recently and figure an estimated cost to repair. Since you live in Mo, it is important that it pass or you know cost of passing. This is a buyer beware item. As I recall, the Mo mechaical inspection isn't that hard to pass. Emissions (St Louis area) is a different ball game.
 
It was because the windshiled. Im going to look at it if its all decent offer hime 800 and not pay more than a grand a windshield is 200 bucks.
 
Car looks clean and good, but, I'd bargain him down hard to 700-800 max. He's saying it is failing a safety b/c of the windsheild, and that is easy to see, but what if there is other stuff?

If he got a visual inspection done, and they said 'it will fail b/c of the ws', and didn't investigate further, there MAY be other stuff even he doesn't know about.
 
i figured i can check everything else before i buy. if everything checks out then it is just the windshield. you think only 800 i figured i wouldnt pay more than a grand. what makes you say 800? i am in no way disagreeing just want to understand a different way of thinking.
 
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