7 year Hot water heater anode rod. Should I replace mine?
- Thread starter bkbenjy
- Start date
What's wrong with it?
That has a lot of life left in it.
No smell. The water is fine. I just pulled it out to check.
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- Dec 28, 2014
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I’m surprised you even got it out after seven years, I couldn’t with mine.
If you got it out you may as well put a new one in along with reinstalling the old one.
It looks fine but I don't really know, when I pull mine out, it's basically a thin wire.
Use an impact gun. I used a Milwaukee 2767 which is 1400 foot pounds of torque in reverse but Ryobi just came out with one with 1170 so it should still work and it's cheaper than the Milwaukee.
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You can only put one in, there's only one connection for an anode rod. If you just toss the old one in, it doesn't do anything, you need to connect the anode to the tank and the inside of the tank is supposed to be insulated so it wouldn't make good contact with the metal in the tank.
You must have some nice water where you live. That rod look's great for 7 years old.
It was a little different to come out. First I used a long snap on 1/2 breaker bar ratchet. It didn't budge. In fact the whole tank started to turn. Then I used a Milwaukee 3/8 impact gun. That got it out. Funny thing is that snap on breaker bar allows more loosening torque than the 3/8 Milwaukee gun. I guess the impact is what actually worked.
As of now I put the old one back with Teflon tape. Hopefully Teflon tape doesn't interfere with how the sacrificial rod works. I don't know.
NYC. Also it's a small 40 gallon one. Only 3 people use it.
Which model 3/8? Good to know that 1400 foot pounds is super overkill. They all blasted right out after just a few seconds with the 2767. The 3/8 is probably much less. Previously I had used a breaker bar and only got half of them out, had to use a 3 foot pipe extension to get the other ones out which is why I went super overkill with the 2767 the next time I had to do them.
As for the Teflon tape, don't cover it up completely as it might kill the connection to the tank. Although once you thread it in, the treads should rip the tape a little but it's probably still a weaker connection. I would just skip it and see if it leaks, they're on so tight I doubt it will. Use a little if it does leak.
Interesting, only 167 foot pounds of torque.
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I tried the half inch breaker bar on mine, same thing, whole water heater started to rotate. That’s when I said, ok, I’ve had enough.
I figured if I tried a impact gun on it it would strip right out. I’ll have to try that next time.
I sure as hell cannot get mine out. I need to be on a ladder.
That thin wire is the core of the rod, that means your rod has completely deteriorated.
Yes exactly what I thought. I belive they put some kind of sealant on the threads at the factory. I think the hammering acting worked really well in breaking that seal. I've used the gun on really tight bolts that it wouldn't remove, that I ended up loosening with a ratchet.
Haha. Yeah I was kinda nervous when I put the impact gun on it.I tried the half inch breaker bar on mine, same thing, whole water heater started to rotate. That’s when I said, ok, I’ve had enough.
Either takes two people or a rachet strap and a 2x4 to hold the tank from turning. Breaker bar & cheater with pressure on the bar smack b bar with 2 lb hammer close to socket end to jar it loose.
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