6L90 won’t shift into 4th after rebuild

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Oct 26, 2024
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Hello! I am brand new here and I apologize in advance for the lengthy message, but I am in need of some assistance!

So my father in law had a 2013 GMC Sierra 2500HD with a 6.0 and a 6l90. He bought it used at 45k and has done no transmission maintenance since. It had just hit 180k and the transmission went. Apparently it was shuttering on the highway one day and the next it barely moved. He told me that it wasn't worth paying the dealer the $8,000 they quoted him to have it replaced, and he told me that it was mine if I wanted it.

I figured that the torque convertor went, plugged the filter, and starved the unit. I ordered a new TC and a rebuild kit from GlobalTransmissionParts. I did new clutches, seals, steels, but no new "hard" parts. I got the bellhousing and pump machined at a local shop (and I got a new .020 thick washer for the back of the stator to make up for the endplay). He had just bought a new radiator 3 months ago so I just cleaned it and the aux. cooler as best I could, with the intention of bringing it down to a local shop for a hot flush when I was done. I did get brand new lines though to fix the rust.

The rebuild went better than I expected, and the unit wasn't as complicated as anticipated (or so I thought). I put it back in on Tuesday, filled and test drove, but it wouldn't shift into 4th. 1, 2, and 3 are fine but it just revs when it tries to shift up into 4th, and then sort of slams back down into 3rd. Reverse was also a little sluggish. I saw online that the 3-5-r drum is tough to get in so I assumed I just didn't have it fully seated into the 4-5-6 drum. I pulled it back out on Wednesday (big fan of doing it in the driveway on jackstands) and tore it all back apart. It all looked completely normal and I couldn't tell anywhere that I went wrong, but there was a little bit of metal in the pan. I put it all back together and after some research did the air checks. 3-5-R engaged, 1-2-3-4 engaged, 4-5-6 engaged, 2-6 engaged, and L-R engaged and all held pressure as expected (going off the Nick's Transmission video I was watching). So I figured I had just put it together wrong the first time. I put the unit back in the truck last night and went for a test drive this morning, and no luck. Still no shift up into 4th. Again, reverse was a little sluggish at times, I put it into reverse and it wouldn't move without significant throttle input, but sometimes it would act normally.

So at this point I am a little lost, and somewhat disheartened. Am I putting the unit together wrong? I am like 99% sure that everything is fully down and seated. When fully assembled the top of the 3-5-R drum is almost flush with the opening where the pan would be and the filter would go through into the pump. Or is it a control problem? I did the Sonnax zip kit for the valve body and everything felt pretty normal. All of the rods (not sure what they're called) would spring back with the retainers in. I also did the Sonnax upgrades in the pump. I reused the TECHM. Could that be my problem? I borrowed a buddy’s scan tool and it showed that it was commanding into 4th, but it didn’t show me if the solenoid was actually engaging.

Again, sorry for the super long, and somewhat all over the place, message. But I am sort of at a loss and not sure where to go from here. Any help would be greatly appreciated, even if just a direction to go!
 
I can't help. Rebuilding an automatic transmission is best left to a shop. Especially a newer electronic controlled one.

35 years ago I rebuilt the TH350 in my Elcamino. I had it out of that car 3x trying to figure out why it didn't work.

I ended up taking it to a shop.
 
I get stressed out just installing a shift kit, Can't imagine going further than that myself.
Maybe this can help: https://www.silveradosierra.com/cdn...rra.com/attachments/1668205759362-png.951779/
I appreciate the chart! I did new clutch plates and steels. I also got new molded pistons. I installed 3 new seals on the 4/5/6 drum shaft and sized them. I’m not sure exactly what I changed in the valve body, but I would assume it was replaced as part of the Sonnax zip kit?

Seems like all that is left is mechanical part failure, but I feel like I would’ve noticed if the shaft was broken or stripped.

Seems like I may end up having to pull it out again. Not the end of the world, but I was hoping not to have to!
 
That is a 45,000-mile service transmission. GM recommends only the severe service for the 6L90E in 3/4 ton and up trucks.
Did you do anything with the valve body?
 
Really all I have got a know some folks have had valve body problems up in age, but if you did all that correctly I am not sure what it could be.
 
I would start with having the TEHCM tested, The Low Reverse/4-5-6 Pressure Control Solenoid (Solenoid 3) in particular for being mechanically hung by a piece of debris.

I test & program/reprogram TEHCM's.
Is that something that I can do or would I have to drop it off at a shop? If I can do it, I assume that would be a bench test?

I live in CT and so far no shop around me has had any interest in doing any drop-off bench work unfortunately.
 
You could ship the Valve Body & TEHCM to me.

Sonnax reman TEHCM's aren't to bad price wise....But it will need to be programmed.
I tried to do some research on it, and it seems a little beyond my capabilities with needing an air manifold and a tech 2 (if my research was correct).

I don’t want to sound ungrateful for the offer, because I am, but I do have a few questions.

Do you think that a stuck solenoid could be related to both issues of no 4th and sluggish reverse?

I found an article by Steve Garrett about bench testing these TECHM units. In it he mentions that the transmission has a solenoid cleaning procedure built in that can be commanded by a scan tool. Is this true? Do you think this could be something beneficial to try?

Again, I appreciate the offer! Just trying to exhaust all options with my capabilities.
 
I tried to do some research on it, and it seems a little beyond my capabilities with needing an air manifold and a tech 2 (if my research was correct).

I don’t want to sound ungrateful for the offer, because I am, but I do have a few questions.

Do you think that a stuck solenoid could be related to both issues of no 4th and sluggish reverse?

I found an article by Steve Garrett about bench testing these TECHM units. In it he mentions that the transmission has a solenoid cleaning procedure built in that can be commanded by a scan tool. Is this true? Do you think this could be something beneficial to try?

Again, I appreciate the offer! Just trying to exhaust all options with my capabilities.
The only differences solenoid wise between 3rd and 4th are pc solenoids 2 and 3 change state. PC Solenoid 3 is also energized in reverse so an issue with solenoid 3 would explain the issues you are having
 
Early TEHCM's had a self cleaning procedure....It was eliminated in later models as it is NOT effective. I've had to physically pick shaving out with a pair of tweezers using a magnifying glass. I blow solvent while activating the solenoids during a cleaning attempt....Then a retest using the test manifold.

Some TEHCM's are just bad/junk & can't be saved.
 
Early TEHCM's had a self cleaning procedure....It was eliminated in later models as it is NOT effective. I've had to physically pick shaving out with a pair of tweezers using a magnifying glass. I blow solvent while activating the solenoids during a cleaning attempt....Then a retest using the test manifold.

Some TEHCM's are just bad/junk & can't be saved.
If it is bad would you be able to program a new one to my VIN? Or would I have to do that once installed in the truck?
 
So I got home from work today and I pulled the valve body out. Just to see if anything jumped out at me I separated it from the TECHM. The 4 orange screens were pretty covered up, and there was a little more metal in the pan. So hopefully whatever is wrong didn’t ruin my rebuild on the short test drive.

I grabbed my multimeter and tested for continuity on the 5 metal tabs under the screen, all checked good. I figured I would try jumping each solenoid to see if they seemed clearly bound up. Below is my very complex engineering drawing of the results. I labeled everything what I thought was correct going off some pictures online. The solenoids with a check mark activated with voltage applied, the ones with an X did not. I’m not sure if they all should or if this is at all helpful, but it seemed like a logical test to me.

IMG_7480.webp
 
If it is bad would you be able to program a new one to my VIN? Or would I have to do that once installed in the truck?

6Lxx "T43" TEHCM's don't have a VIN....But it needs the correct Operating System & Calibration File, I mention this because Used TEHCM's from the same year/make/model can generally be used without programming.

I can bench Program & Tune T43 TEHCM's using GM SPS2 & HP-Tuners.
 
So I got home from work today and I pulled the valve body out. Just to see if anything jumped out at me I separated it from the TECHM. The 4 orange screens were pretty covered up, and there was a little more metal in the pan. So hopefully whatever is wrong didn’t ruin my rebuild on the short test drive.

I grabbed my multimeter and tested for continuity on the 5 metal tabs under the screen, all checked good. I figured I would try jumping each solenoid to see if they seemed clearly bound up. Below is my very complex engineering drawing of the results. I labeled everything what I thought was correct going off some pictures online. The solenoids with a check mark activated with voltage applied, the ones with an X did not. I’m not sure if they all should or if this is at all helpful, but it seemed like a logical test to me.

View attachment 247519

TCC, PCS#4, & PCS#5 are Normally Low while Main PCS, PCS#2, & PCS#3 are Normally High....This accounts for the differing results by directly applying current, I don't really recommend doing that as the module cannot be isolated from the solenoids!!!!

You're after confirming Zero & Max flow through the mechanical part of the PC Solenoids....Not electrical testing as electrical faults will set DTC's.
 
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