65 Mustang

[05Blazer]

Looking for Oil brand and grade recommendations for a '65' Mustang with a 289 High Performance. Car has a mild cam in it. I was thinking of going with the Valvoline VR1 series due to the higher content of Zinc but don't know if I should use a 20W50 or like a 10W40 or even 10W30 grade. This is my first classic car ive owned.

Thanks for your input

 

[OVERKILL]

I assume you haven't converted it to roller? Mild cam, I'd probably use AMSOIL Z-Rod 10w-30 in it, that engine definitely doesn't need 20w-50.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...0w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ZRTQT-EA

 

[Kestas]

Many classic car owners use Shell Rotella T. It is reported to have the antiwear package needed by flat tappet engines.

10W-30 or 10W-40 should be fine.

 

[Donald]

I had a 1965 Mustang with 289 and 3 speed manual with Hurst shifter and a T-handle. The metal T-handle would be too hot to touch getting into the car in the summer. I was 17 or 18, what did I know.

I decided to rework the engine. Had it bored for pop-up pistons, 3/4 grind cam, bearings, etc. Learned so much about engines.

Sold it a few years latter to get a 1969 Mach 1 Mustang with 351 Windsor. One fast car.

These early Mustangs had "drop-in" gas tanks that could rupture from a rear-end collision and dump fuel all over the people in the car. That issue should be dealt with.

I agree with the Amsoil Z-Rod. I am sure there are other oils high in zinc.

 

[LoneRanger]

10W40 VR1

 

[DoubleWasp]

Originally Posted by LoneRanger
10W40 VR1


+1

But it would be fine on a good diesel oil.

 

[69Torino]

VR-1 10w-30 would be absolutely perfect for this engine. And it's half the price or better of Amsoil Z-Rod. (I do like Amsoil Z-Rod and Dominator oils) A 30 weight oil is also perfect. No need for anything more.

 

[ka9mnx]

10w-30

 

[Silverado12]

IMO Rotella T5 10W-30 or 15W-40.

 

[StevieC]

10w30 with high ZDDP if it's flat tappets still

 

[dnewton3]

I had a 1966 convertible 289 Mustang for about a decade. I ran Rotella 10w-30 dino oil. I probably put a whopping 1500 miles on that car in 10 years (rarely ever drove it, and as much as I loved it, could not justify keeping it around when college tuition was eating me alive).

Speaking of eating things, the 289 engines are known to eat up cam journals over the long haul; you'll know when oil pressure drops to near zilch when sitting at a stop light. My engine (original) ran fine, but did lose a bit of pressure at low warm idle. I popped off a valve cover to replace the seeping cork cover gasket, and it was SLUDGE CITY under there! Horrid. The reason is two fold:
1) oils back then didn't have anywhere near the detergents and anti-agglomerates that today's oils do
2) the OCI even back then was 6k miles on 10w-30 (the original sticker was still in the engine bay in my car!)

if you use any decent PCMO or HDEO and a good add-pack you'll be fine. As long as you're not running high valve spring pressures it should not be too bad. Make sure your clearances are set correctly on the solid lifters. The main thing is that today's lubes are much better all around than stuff from 50 years ago! You don't need to find the "best"; just choose a good one. Any HDEO in 10w-30 will suffice. Or PCMO in 10w-40 perhaps.

 

[krismoriah72]

My first classic car was also a 65 mustang with a 289 HiPo.. i was 17 years old and i stayed broke..

My buddy also had one that his father handed down, mine was an auto and his a 3 speed.

Both of our cars did well on Valvoline 10w30 All-Fleet which his dad provided..


The only question i have for you ..has anyone installed hardened valve seats? If its just a local cruiser i wouldnt worry about it..if you plan on taking long trips then perhaps so.

To answer your question- If i had the car today I would go with Rotella 10w30

 

[JeffKeryk]

There are a lotta flat tappet (higher zink) oils out there now.
If your valve springs are near stock pressure, any 10w30 will be fine.
I run Rotella 15w40 in my 68 L35 Corvette Roadster and 65 4-4-2.
Both are pretty stock, especially my Oldsey.

If I ever pull one of those engines apart again I will stab a hyd roller cam.
Watch out for racing oils as they do not have the proper detergent additives for a street driven engine.

 

[DoubleWasp]

VR1 Street Legal is not one of those racing oils that does not have appropriate detergents. Has plenty, as evidenced by multiple VOAs.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted by Donald
I had a 1965 Mustang with 289 and 3 speed manual with Hurst shifter and a T-handle. The metal T-handle would be too hot to touch getting into the car in the summer. I was 17 or 18, what did I know.

I decided to rework the engine. Had it bored for pop-up pistons, 3/4 grind cam, bearings, etc. Learned so much about engines.

Sold it a few years latter to get a 1969 Mach 1 Mustang with 351 Windsor. One fast car.

These early Mustangs had "drop-in" gas tanks that could rupture from a rear-end collision and dump fuel all over the people in the car. That issue should be dealt with.

I agree with the Amsoil Z-Rod. I am sure there are other oils high in zinc.


When I first got the Mustang I decided to change the oil using the Quaker State oil my Dad had by the case. When I restarted the engine no oil pressure. What I found out is the old oil was probably not detergent. The shaft driving the oil pump sheared and thus no oil pressure. It sheared because the new oil loosened sludge inside the oil pump and jammed the gears.

 

[Kruse]

Originally Posted by Donald

These early Mustangs had "drop-in" gas tanks that could rupture from a rear-end collision and dump fuel all over the people in the car. That issue should be dealt with.


Got any ideas on exactly how that issue should be dealt with?
BTW, my first car was a '66 Mustang. When I went to auto tech school, I dropped in a warmed over 302 and put a 4-speed toploader transmission w/a Hurst shifter behind it. For a short time, I had a Buddy Bar 3x2 intake manifold on it. (That I still have, BTW) My car had the factory 140 mph speedometer. Hey, it was there and I had to see exactly if it would get there.
I obviously had my guardian angels in those days because I really don't recommend anybody going that fast on cheap, bias-ply tires.

 

[dave1251]

Mild cam? I ask because the orginal PCMO for this engine had about half the ZDDP as SN+ and a 30 grade should be sufficient.

 

[spasm3]

Are the valve springs stock ? If higher than stock spring pressures i'd run the vr-1 other wise 5w 40 rotella t. ( The rotella may be enough even with higher spring pressure).

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by Donald
When I first got the Mustang I decided to change the oil using the Quaker State oil my Dad had by the case. When I restarted the engine no oil pressure. What I found out is the old oil was probably not detergent. The shaft driving the oil pump sheared and thus no oil pressure. It sheared because the new oil loosened sludge inside the oil pump and jammed the gears.
Wow!

BITOGer's worst nightmare!