6 point combination wrenches that are on the cheaper side....

Tractor supply had (has?) a sale on GearWrench wrenches that may meet your needs.
 
  • Super happy with my older MIA SK's (They had an excellent selection: short/standard/long, 6/12, etc.) Maybe you can find some NOS or used off Flea-bay?
  • Tip for getting overall cost down: figure out what sizes you really need. Just buy individual wrenches.
  • Williams also has great selection and individual wrenches at not cheap, but fair prices
  • FWIW: I love Tekton, but sadly only 12pt, so most of my wrenches are SK, old Craftsman + a few Williams and Carlisle
  • Carlisle (NAPA) are niiiiice but waaaaay over priced... Keep an eye out, they do have large on-line sales, like 25% off
 

Why?
The rear knuckles have two nuts facing each other, and the gap between them is not large.
It’s far better to hit the bolt with the impact while holding the nut with a wrench. It’s no different than a lower control arm where you have to use a wrench to hold the nut up top.
 
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I was in our local True Value hardware yesterday and they had a sale-clearance table with wrench sets for $11.99. They looked like they were fitting of the cheap requirement.
 
Why?
The rear knuckles have two nuts facing each other, and the gap between them is not large.
It’s far better to hit the bolt with the impact while holding the nut with a wrench. It’s no different than a lower control arm where you have to use a wrench to hold the nut up top.
Actually, it’s far worse to hit the bolt with the impact because the bolt will be held in along the entire length of the shank as well as the flange by corrosion.

It’ll take much higher break away torque to do the bolt than to do the nut.

I get that the bolt head may be more convenient, but hitting the nut with the impact will be far more effective and more likely to be successful.
 
Actually, it’s far worse to hit the bolt with the impact because the bolt will be held in along the entire length of the shank as well as the flange by corrosion.

It’ll take much higher break away torque to do the bolt than to do the nut.

I get that the bolt head may be more convenient, but hitting the nut with the impact will be far more effective and more likely to be successful.

I understand what you're saying. I suppose I've just become too spoiled working on these things here in Arkansas, very little rust or corrosion to deal with.
I've done a lot of those rear knuckles, and they've all popped loose easily by hitting the bolt straight on with an impact while holding the nut with a wrench.
I suppose, like many things, it's a case-by-case situation.
 
Are Snap-on tools overpriced, or is it the money in circulation not worth much?
The competition from Asia has gotten so good in recent years. You can get 80-90% of the performance and 75% of the longevity/durability (usually) at 20% of snap on’s pricing.

Snap On remains an iconic brand. Their hand tools are excellent and will continue to set the standard for others to copy. Going to the tool truck will always sound cool. But the tool truck business model is dated when Amazon can get you a replacement tool same day or overnight at a fraction of the cost, even if you have to pay out of pocket.
 
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