5W-30 in place of 10W-30

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Which of you guys are running 5w30 in an application that specifies 10W-30 ?

Has the 5w30 caused any noticeable affects on the engine ?
 
I got some closeout 10w-30 conventional oil last year and ran it in my 04 Ion during the summer. No problems at all, couldn't tell any difference at all.
 
These days I see no reason not to. LOTS of folks have moved to 5w-40 from 15w40, which is a bigger jump. The benefits are obvious in terms of cold flow/pumping, and it seems that VIIs and shear stability isnt an issue. Now of course if the requirement is something stouter, then 10w-30 may be better, but Im not so sure thats true with conventionals at least...
 
The OM on my oldest vehicle says to use 10W-30 for temps 0F and above and 5w30 if the vehicle will see below zero. I use 0W or 5w30 year-round. Since I never use 10W anything in my vehicles, I have nothing to compare it to.
 
I have used Quaker State QHP & UD 5W30 in my 2.5L trail Jeep for a while now. Cold starts are easier compared to 10W30, and the engine is more free revving compared to using SAE30 or 10W40. Fe in my UOA's are also very good in a design known to shed. I beat the living snot out of the Jeep too, so it's beyond typical "severe service".
 
95 Camry in sig has 10-30 stamped on the oil cap. I've used 5-30 only for the last 40k miles. All is well!
 
You have 7000+ posts, so I would imagine you have been around a while and know the benefits of having a lower W number in an oil.

5w would provide better start-up protection than a 10w, especially in cold weather. I have yet to hear of a normal vehicle application where 5w was not a better choice than 10w.

From my observations, the only time to use 10w is in extremely hot climates, for long OCI's where shearing may be an issue, and for possible oil consumption.
 
My owners manual & oil fill cap call for 10W-30. I have been using 5w30 almost exclusively when I change the oil myself. Have occasionally used 0W-30, or mixed in some 5W-20. To me, the sooner the oil is able to start circulating throughout the whole engine, the better. I guess that means I believe the theory that much of the engine wear takes place shortly after cold startup when the oil is too thick to circulate. For that same reason and many others, I prefer synthetic.
 
Tried once the other way around on a vehicle. Spec 5w-20 and I tried 10w-30. Dumped it out a week later and went back to the spec 5w-20. Got noisy.

In my mower and generator, both call for 10w-30. I been running 5w-40 Rotella.
 
I use 5w30 Maxlife in my old Pontiac 3.8L that calls for 10W-30. Starts easy, runs fine and has 80lbs of oil pressure at start up. Not a big difference in the Maxlife 5w vs 10w other than VI.
 
I often run 5w30 in my Jeep during winter, which the primary spec is 10w30. The Jeep will beat a good 5w30 down to a 20 grade within 2,500 to 3,000 miles though so I don't run it longer than that, and again only in the winter.

Runs very well on it though and of course starts are better. Ran one 5w30 too long once, it was well into 20 grade and the wear numbers in the UOA were not good, won't do that again.
 
When the taxi fleet specified 10w-30, that was what was used in them. SAE 30 would have done about as well since the things rarely shut off. However, as soon as they were pulled from taxi service and put into personal use or any other vehicle I put into personal use, I used 5w30, whether 10w-30 was called for or not. 10w-30 simply isn't optimal for winter starts and there is absolutely no reason for seasonal viscosity switches.
 
Honda recommends conventional 10W30 for S2000 when temperature is above 0F and 5W40(which is available in synthetic only) for temp below 0F.

I think the reason for 10W30 is 5W30 may shear down to 20 grade if the driver is constantly rev the engine above 7-8k RPM.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
I often run 5w30 in my Jeep during winter, which the primary spec is 10w30. The Jeep will beat a good 5w30 down to a 20 grade within 2,500 to 3,000 miles though so I don't run it longer than that, and again only in the winter.

Runs very well on it though and of course starts are better. Ran one 5w30 too long once, it was well into 20 grade and the wear numbers in the UOA were not good, won't do that again.


Very interesting. I wonder what causes that?
 
My Nissan (Turbodiesel) initially came Factory Fill with a 10W-30, but manual recommendation is 15w40.

Have run 5w30 C3 synthetics in it, wouldn't do a 5w30 GF-anything in it...But I generally stick to a 5W-40...thinned a little with a low VII, high additive 5w30.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
I often run 5w30 in my Jeep during winter, which the primary spec is 10w30. The Jeep will beat a good 5w30 down to a 20 grade within 2,500 to 3,000 miles though so I don't run it longer than that, and again only in the winter.

Runs very well on it though and of course starts are better. Ran one 5w30 too long once, it was well into 20 grade and the wear numbers in the UOA were not good, won't do that again.


Very interesting. I wonder what causes that?


I don't know, I generally consider the 4.0 to be pretty easy on oil but they do consistently shear them down quite a bit. I think Chrysler knew this and thus the 10w30 as the primary spec.

jeepman3071 has consecutive UOA's on PYB though with 5w30 and 10w30 and the 10w30 showed no shear advantage over the 5w30, however the wear numbers were significantly better with the 10w30.
 
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
The OM on my oldest vehicle says to use 10W-30 for temps 0F and above and 5w30 if the vehicle will see below zero. I use 0W or 5w30 year-round. Since I never use 10W anything in my vehicles, I have nothing to compare it to.



well, that didn't add very much to the knowledge base then, did it?
 
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