5.3L Lifters and Certain Oil

Status
Not open for further replies.
L

LivingSlow

Joined
Jul 29, 2019
Messages
4
Location
Georgia
I'm aware lifter knock is more or less a mechanical issue but I found certain oils did quiet them down and occur less.

I have a Silverado 1500 Classic 5.3L with around 170K and it developed a lifter knock after warming up. The knock goes away after a couple of miles and it's not always there. If you idle too long, it will come back.

The oil gauge shows normal operation 40 pounds under load and about 30ish at idle.

I had Valvoline 5w30 Max Life Full Sythentic in it when the knock occurred at around 140K. I've stayed consistent with this oil since purchasing the vehicle at about 90K.

At the first of the year, I tried a different oil which was Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic. My lifters hated the change and pretty much would make noise after warming up or idling every single drive.

For kicks, I tried Rotella T5 Synthetic 10w30 because that's what I put in my one ton. It pretty much eliminated any lifter noise... Only towards around 2500 miles did it every now and then start making noise. I only ran one cycle through it of the Rotella.

Currently, I have Valvoline's higher mileage oil and went up a weight. It's still there but not as frequent.

I just wanna get some of your opinions on going back to the Rotella since it actually appeared to work.

Also, I've tried the Lucas Oil additive products with no luck.
 
Last edited:
Yeah I'm not sure what you're asking. If the Rotella carries the certification your engine requires why wouldn't you use it if it makes it quieter?
 
Why not try a $12/gallon 15w40 HDEO … Delo, Delvac, RoShella, etc …
I ran my 2010 5.3L on that Delvac … purred
 
Originally Posted by LivingSlow
I'm aware lifter knock is more or less a mechanical issue but I found certain oils did quiet them down and occur less.

I have a Silverado 1500 Classic 5.3L with around 170K and it developed a lifter knock after warming up. The knock goes away after a couple of miles and it's not always there. If you idle too long, it will come back.

The oil gauge shows normal operation 40 pounds under load and about 30ish at idle.

I had Valvoline 5w30 Max Life Full Sythentic in it when the knock occurred at around 140K. I've stayed consistent with this oil since purchasing the vehicle at about 90K.

At the first of the year, I tried a different oil which was Mobil 1 Advanced Full Synthetic. My lifters hated the change and pretty much would make noise after warming up or idling every single drive.

For kicks, I tried Rotella T5 Synthetic 10w30 because that's what I put in my one ton. It pretty much eliminated any lifter noise... Only towards around 2500 miles did it every now and then start making noise. I only ran one cycle through it of the Rotella.

Currently, I have Valvoline's higher mileage oil and went up a weight. It's still there but not as frequent.

I just wanna get some of your opinions on going back to the Rotella since it actually appeared to work.

Also, I've tried the Lucas Oil additive products with no luck.





Here is an older thread with the same issue.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2394649
 
I bet your oil pick up tube O ring is starting to let go, 99% of the LS base engines I've fixed "lifter tick" was due to a bad O ring, usually in your mile range. The reason I believe you say the Rotella worked is because the oil was able to hold it's viscosity better than the other oils.
 
Psi low at 30.
I have 2 5.3 engines and my daughter has a 4.8
Should run around 38 to 40 at idle. With 5w 30 oil.
I do notice penzoil is lower than mobil 1 by a few psi.
 
Originally Posted by Loobit
I'd go back to Rotella, but use 5w40 T6. Better flow for cold starts than 10w- or 15w-.


What does better flow mean …?
 
Originally Posted by Newman88
I bet your oil pick up tube O ring is starting to let go, 99% of the LS base engines I've fixed "lifter tick" was due to a bad O ring, usually in your mile range. The reason I believe you say the Rotella worked is because the oil was able to hold it's viscosity better than the other oils.


Hmm, interesting... This maybe would explain why it happens at idle too and clears up while running.

The Rotella felt great in my truck, honestly you couldn't hear the engine running.

How difficult is it to replace the Oring? It's a 4WD.

tblt44 - Man, I didn't realize that was considered low for my engine. Thanks for letting me know.

A little worried that 15w40 is a little too thick but I love the price of Rotella oil in general.
 
If you want to go cheap and quick just remove your timing cover, remove the timing chain and sprocket (make sure your at TDC with the timing marks align) get a 5/16 wrench and remove the bolt holding the pick up tube to oil pump (it's a pain but can be done) be careful not to drop it inside the pan remove the 4 botls holding the oil pump and remove th pump, take old O ring out and install new one in, repeat the process and your done.

But if you want to do it the right and most expensive (parts wise) way like I do do all thee steps above but add removal of differential, shafts, and oil pan and add these parts and IMO are a must.

Parts that I normally do when I tackle this kind of job.

1. Oil pump Mahle high flow oil pump (comes with the O rings needed for the pick up tube
2. Timing cover gasket set
3. Water pump gaskets (optional new water pump)
4. Timing chain and sprockets (optional but I highly recomend it since "your in there")
5. Oil pan gasket

Optional since your water pump is out:
Coolant flush with at least 12 gallons of distilled water and 3 gals of antifreeze
 
Originally Posted by Newman88
If you want to go cheap and quick just remove your timing cover, remove the timing chain and sprocket (make sure your at TDC with the timing marks align) get a 5/16 wrench and remove the bolt holding the pick up tube to oil pump (it's a pain but can be done) be careful not to drop it inside the pan remove the 4 botls holding the oil pump and remove th pump, take old O ring out and install new one in, repeat the process and your done.

But if you want to do it the right and most expensive (parts wise) way like I do do all thee steps above but add removal of differential, shafts, and oil pan and add these parts and IMO are a must.

Parts that I normally do when I tackle this kind of job.

1. Oil pump Mahle high flow oil pump (comes with the O rings needed for the pick up tube
2. Timing cover gasket set
3. Water pump gaskets (optional new water pump)
4. Timing chain and sprockets (optional but I highly recomend it since "your in there")
5. Oil pan gasket

Optional since your water pump is out:
Coolant flush with at least 12 gallons of distilled water and 3 gals of antifreeze



crazy2.gif
A question about oil turned into a minor overhaul! All depends on the OP's future plans for his truck.

Asked again, will the tick he's hearing hurt anything considering a different weight oil quiets it?
 
Follow to science of lubrication if you want to "see" if it can possibly help with your lifter tick. What does science say? Esters will lubricate an area under heat and load better then group 3, and that is what happens with lifter tick ir becomes hot metal against metal. Also, viscosity might be able to help, but it sounds like lucas didn't so you can discount this. Next, more ep/aw "might" plate that area better then low ep/aw additives. Basically you are looking at 2 main elements zddp and/or moly. So you can choose an oil that is ester based with high levels of those two elements like redline 5w30, or you can choose an additive that would add esters and moly such as lubegard biotech, or you can choose an addive like mos2 that is just moly in suspension. If you search those three options just as a starter search, you will see a very high success rate at quieting lifter tick without using a product that has a cSt of 100-200. High success rate does not mean it will kill your tick, only that the science is solid that it might. Also consider high flow filters with synthetic media, my personal choice followed the GM test. Royal Purple filters have good flow, and when I used another filter I did pick up a tick again, and went back to RP and tick was gone again. I'm not saying not to address this mechanically, maybe that is always best choice if possible, but if you use science to make a choice to deal with this issue, you will have a better outcome then chosing a name.
 
One last thing, the science of moly is one that takes heat, time, and pressure to plate. It has been the over whelming fact that high moly will take miles to work, especially PCMO moly which is different then m0s2. My hemi it took 500 miles for the tick to go silent, but we have had it take up to 2300 miles for the tick to go silent. So be patient before you judge a moly oil or additive. One thing is you can literally go get a 15 ounce lubegard and dump it in to current oil to see if it helps. Maybe when it is time to chnage oil if that doesn't work, give redline 5w30 a shot. If that doesn't help, I got nothing.
 
One more last thing
smile.gif


QSUD 5w30 might be a great choice of you want to go after otc oils, last time I checked low noack and high moly.
 
This truck is in great shape and the last year ('07...) of the classic body style. I'm gonna ask a repair shop to quote me on replacing that O Ring. Sounds a little bit beyond what I can tackle myself.

In the meantime - burla I'm appreciating your analysis. I would like to test a high moly oil / additive and see if this holds true. I'm going to do some research on the brands you mentioned.

This forum is one of the most helpful I've encountered.
 
Last edited:
It might cause damage but I have not seen damage personally, the tick gets annoying very quick though.

I've had one customer that came with an 05 chevy 1500 with 200k with only 8 psi of oil pressure, no visual wear replaced the O ring and all parts i posted and truck still running till this day has over 260k
OP if you plan on keeping your truck fix it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

P
2004 wj 4.0 oil question
2
Replies
38
Views
2K
OVERKILL
H
  • Locked
Active Fuel Management (AFM) heavier oil better for lifters?
Replies
2
Views
1K
hardheaded
KrisZ
5w30 didn’t save me from the lifter tick
2 3 4
Replies
76
Views
8K
sloinker
M
Which oil for breaking in 2024 F250 7.3?
3 4 5
Replies
80
Views
3K
Randy_R
52 Ford
Alternative to Shell Rotella Gas Truck
2
Replies
37
Views
1K
ATex7239
Back
Top