4T65E pan drop tips/tricks

[NMBurb02]

I plan on dropping the pan on the 4T65E in the GP this weekend and am looking for some tips and tricks to avoid a "potential environmental disaster", as LeakySeals so eloquently put it. My main questions/concerns:

Is there a best corner of the pan to begin removing the pan bolts to best guide the drainage flow for the cleanest possible collection?

How many bolts should I be able to remove before fluid begins draining?

I could not find anything regarding a torque sequence for the bolts when putting everything back together, so should I just start at one point and go around the pan in one direction? I know it is a two torque sequence, with a lower torque during the first pass and final torque on the second, but found nothing about the order in which the bolts should be torqued down.

Any other guidance you can provide would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Astro14]

Big drain pan...

Tighten in an alternating pattern...don't just go in a circle or the gasket might not seat properly...but that's just me...

More here: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/torque-pattern-for-transmission-fluid-pan-gasket.152188/

 

[apwillard1986]

I have used aquarium airline tubing down the dipstick to siphon out as much fluid as possible before dropping these pans. Since GM did not bless these with drains it is the cleanest way I have found to do it. Since ATF is not meant to be worn by you or your garage floor the extra half an hour or so is worth it.

 

[eljefino]

If you're doing it on ramps or jackstands with the front bumper highest in the air you want to get most of the rear bolts out first.

The trick, which I haven't mastered myself, is what then to do when bolts are mostly loose and a "curtain" of ATF is slooshing out a 1mm wide crack.

That trans pan has a built in funnel type thing that aims rearward; if you're cunning you'll figure out how to drop that first. But you'll want the foreward bolts a turn loose so the pan doesn't warp around those bolt holes when the rear bolts come out. The $64,000 question is how are you going to get the last bolt out of the back when your arm and potentially head are under the pan that's dripping everywhere from every seam. Plan ahead.

I'd use a junk socket & wrench for this job. If you have an adapter to cordless drill that will speed things up-- you get plenty of warning that it's about to drip when loosening and the clicky-torque thing on cordless drills is great for the inch pounds of throwing it all back together.

Catch your bolts on newspaper or something so they don't get grit on their threads and it'll go together like butter. You'll want a good layer of newspaper and kitty litter handy for the inevitable drips and disasters. A cheap kiddie wading pool isn't over the top for a first-timer.

Consider reusing the stock gasket instead of the cheap one from the kit.

 

[Trav]

There is an easy way to do these. You will need some 3/8 clear tubing from HD.

Follow the lines up the side/rear of the engine, there is a 14mm head bolt holding a clamp on to the engine, remove it.

Go to the lower line at the transmission (the one that goes straight in not the one going upward) and remove the clip from the fitting. A thin screwdriver works fine.

The fitting..

The clip..

Pull the line straight out. Place the plastic tube over the removed line and put the other end in a drain pan or gallon container.

Have an assistant start the engine. The fluid will come out and fill the container in about 30 sec or so, when its close to full shut the engine off.
Repeat until you see air bubbles in the tubing then shut it down.

You now have two choices. Either leave the line off so you can finish the line off fluid exchange or reinsert the line.

To reinsert the line simply put the clip back on the fitting before pushing the line in, once assembled push the line straight in through the clip.

which bolts to remove first depends if its on a lift or on ramps. On a lift it doesn't matter, just leave one bolt on the front and rear then remove the rest holding the pan while you remove the last two.

On ramps make sure you have a large pan and remove the rear bolts first then slowly loosen the others, let the fluid run then hold the pan up and remove the rest.
I use a small cordless impact to remove the bolts and run them up but not tighten.

Keep the drain pan in place when your pull the filter as a fair amount of fluid is coming out.
The filter is not bolted in and may take a bit of prying to get it out.
Replace the seal and coat it with ATF then push the filter in. You will probably need to tap it in using a large plastic hammer (don't dent the filter), they don't go in easy much of the time.

Reuse the original pan gasket, you can reuse the OEM a few times. There is no toque sequence other than alternating between sides, just run them up lightly then with a small 1/4" ratchet and 10mm socket snug them up. no need to get crazy or re torque with the OEM gasket, it has a steel core.

Fill 6 qts in and either continue with the line off exchange or shift it through the gears, get it on level ground and make sure the level is at the lower mark.
Later after a drive check it again it should be at or close to the upper mark.

To finish the line off exchange fill the 6qts in and place the hose in another gallon container or bucket and start the engine again, continue till you see bubbles (you may need another container) if the fluid looks as clean as its going in you can stop at this point, if it still looks dirty put more fluid in and continue.
Replace the line and fill the transmission.

Edit: Now would be a perfect opportunity to do the accumulator mod as a preventative measure.

 

[Fleetmon]

Because most that I have done involves working on my back under the vehicle, I typically use one of the large containers available at Walmarts/Targets and center it under the pan....that way I "catch" whatever sloshes out wherever.....once it breaks loose and held loosely with a few bolts, then I'll drop what ever side is easiest for me, allow that to drain for a few and then remove the entire pan. It's rare when I get any on the floor. The containers are easy to clean afterwards and the container I currently use is what I store my engine oil drain pan,funnels, grease gun, etc in....fits nice and neat on my garage shelves when not in use.

However, sucking out as much as you can via the dipstick hole would be neater still and if you install a drain plug....even better.

 

[901Memphis]

I can get about 4 quarts or more out of my 4T65E via the filler tube. That gives you much less to spill when you pull the pan. I highly recommend a good pump like a mity vac, but I make out just fine with the cheap harbor freight hand pump.

 

[tommygunn]

My tip: get an aftermarket pan with a drain plug.

The Americans are just too stupid to include one on their automatic transmissions. Honda, Toyota, Subaru, and Mercedes all include them on most of their slushboxes.

 

[901Memphis]

Do they make an after market pan for it? I would buy one if they did

 

[901Memphis]

This appears to have a drain plug but how can I be sure?

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=370657104351&siteId=0&isClassified=false

 

[NMBurb02]

Originally Posted By: Trav
There is an easy way to do these. You will need some 3/8 clear tubing from HD.

Follow the lines up the side/rear of the engine, there is a 14mm head bolt holding a clamp on to the engine, remove it.

Go to the lower line at the transmission (the one that goes straight in not the one going upward) and remove the clip from the fitting. A thin screwdriver works fine.

The fitting..

The clip..

Pull the line straight out. Place the plastic tube over the removed line and put the other end in a drain pan or gallon container.

Have an assistant start the engine. The fluid will come out and fill the container in about 30 sec or so, when its close to full shut the engine off.
Repeat until you see air bubbles in the tubing then shut it down.

You now have two choices. Either leave the line off so you can finish the line off fluid exchange or reinsert the line.

To reinsert the line simply put the clip back on the fitting before pushing the line in, once assembled push the line straight in through the clip.

which bolts to remove first depends if its on a lift or on ramps. On a lift it doesn't matter, just leave one bolt on the front and rear then remove the rest holding the pan while you remove the last two.

On ramps make sure you have a large pan and remove the rear bolts first then slowly loosen the others, let the fluid run then hold the pan up and remove the rest.
I use a small cordless impact to remove the bolts and run them up but not tighten.

Keep the drain pan in place when your pull the filter as a fair amount of fluid is coming out.
The filter is not bolted in and may take a bit of prying to get it out.
Replace the seal and coat it with ATF then push the filter in. You will probably need to tap it in using a large plastic hammer (don't dent the filter), they don't go in easy much of the time.

Reuse the original pan gasket, you can reuse the OEM a few times. There is no toque sequence other than alternating between sides, just run them up lightly then with a small 1/4" ratchet and 10mm socket snug them up. no need to get crazy or re torque with the OEM gasket, it has a steel core.

Fill 6 qts in and either continue with the line off exchange or shift it through the gears, get it on level ground and make sure the level is at the lower mark.
Later after a drive check it again it should be at or close to the upper mark.

To finish the line off exchange fill the 6qts in and place the hose in another gallon container or bucket and start the engine again, continue till you see bubbles (you may need another container) if the fluid looks as clean as its going in you can stop at this point, if it still looks dirty put more fluid in and continue.
Replace the line and fill the transmission.

Edit: Now would be a perfect opportunity to do the accumulator mod as a preventative measure.

Thanks! That is exactly the type of guidance I was looking for. I think that is the same basic process my mechanic used when he changed the tranny fluid in the Burb last year.

So to complete the line off exchange process is disconnect line, pump out, drop pan, change filter, re-install pan, add 6 quarts, pump out, repeat until fluid coming out is clean, reconnect line, fill, check, and go?

Should I go for a short drive to warm up the fluid beforehand or is doing the whole thing cold fine?

 

[NMBurb02]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Do they make an after market pan for it? I would buy one if they did

Yes, Dorman makes one with a drain plug, part #265814. It costs $36.59 to have Rockauto deliver it to my door or I can pick it up locally on 24 hour notice from AZ ($55) or OR ($44). However, I would rather do Trav's line off exchange than spend $35+ on a new pan.

 

[NMBurb02]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
This appears to have a drain plug but how can I be sure?

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=370657104351&siteId=0&isClassified=false

It says it does in the description and you can see it on the right in the first picture.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: NMBurb02
Originally Posted By: Trav
There is an easy way to do these. You will need some 3/8 clear tubing from HD.

Follow the lines up the side/rear of the engine, there is a 14mm head bolt holding a clamp on to the engine, remove it.

Go to the lower line at the transmission (the one that goes straight in not the one going upward) and remove the clip from the fitting. A thin screwdriver works fine.

The fitting..

The clip..

Pull the line straight out. Place the plastic tube over the removed line and put the other end in a drain pan or gallon container.

Have an assistant start the engine. The fluid will come out and fill the container in about 30 sec or so, when its close to full shut the engine off.
Repeat until you see air bubbles in the tubing then shut it down.

You now have two choices. Either leave the line off so you can finish the line off fluid exchange or reinsert the line.

To reinsert the line simply put the clip back on the fitting before pushing the line in, once assembled push the line straight in through the clip.

which bolts to remove first depends if its on a lift or on ramps. On a lift it doesn't matter, just leave one bolt on the front and rear then remove the rest holding the pan while you remove the last two.

On ramps make sure you have a large pan and remove the rear bolts first then slowly loosen the others, let the fluid run then hold the pan up and remove the rest.
I use a small cordless impact to remove the bolts and run them up but not tighten.

Keep the drain pan in place when your pull the filter as a fair amount of fluid is coming out.
The filter is not bolted in and may take a bit of prying to get it out.
Replace the seal and coat it with ATF then push the filter in. You will probably need to tap it in using a large plastic hammer (don't dent the filter), they don't go in easy much of the time.

Reuse the original pan gasket, you can reuse the OEM a few times. There is no toque sequence other than alternating between sides, just run them up lightly then with a small 1/4" ratchet and 10mm socket snug them up. no need to get crazy or re torque with the OEM gasket, it has a steel core.

Fill 6 qts in and either continue with the line off exchange or shift it through the gears, get it on level ground and make sure the level is at the lower mark.
Later after a drive check it again it should be at or close to the upper mark.

To finish the line off exchange fill the 6qts in and place the hose in another gallon container or bucket and start the engine again, continue till you see bubbles (you may need another container) if the fluid looks as clean as its going in you can stop at this point, if it still looks dirty put more fluid in and continue.
Replace the line and fill the transmission.

Edit: Now would be a perfect opportunity to do the accumulator mod as a preventative measure.

Thanks! That is exactly the type of guidance I was looking for. I think that is the same basic process my mechanic used when he changed the tranny fluid in the Burb last year.

So to complete the line off exchange process is disconnect line, pump out, drop pan, change filter, re-install pan, add 6 quarts, pump out, repeat until fluid coming out is clean, reconnect line, fill, check, and go?

Should I go for a short drive to warm up the fluid beforehand or is doing the whole thing cold fine?


Yes thats it exactly. Cold is fine, no point in messing with hot fluid.

 

[NMBurb02]

Any thoughts on using this product to flush the transmission cooler lines and cooler? Any need at 139k miles?

Pro-King Automatic Transmission Cooler Flush

 

[NMBurb02]

Originally Posted By: NMBurb02
Any thoughts on using this product to flush the transmission cooler lines and cooler? Any need at 139k miles?

Pro-King Automatic Transmission Cooler Flush

Never mind. OR carries a cooler flush made by LubeGard and I would prefer to use that before the first fill and pump and top off the Dexrpn-VI with a bottle of Lubegard Red.

 

[901Memphis]

You don't need any flush products in a transmission. You also Don't need lubeguard for dex-6. Just change more often if your worried. Supertech dex - 6 is fine to use and is around $4 per quart.

 

[NMBurb02]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
You don't need any flush products in a transmission. You also Don't need lubeguard for dex-6. Just change more often if your worried. Supertech dex - 6 is fine to use and is around $4 per quart.

The flush is for the transmission cooler and cooler lines only. It would not enter the tranny.

Thanks for saving me $10 with the tip on the Lubegard.

 

[901Memphis]

Interesting note about flushing the lines and cooler without going in the tranny. I think then it would be useful if theres any buildup.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: NMBurb02

The flush is for the transmission cooler and cooler lines only. It would not enter the tranny.

Thanks for saving me $10 with the tip on the Lubegard.


A couple of notes are warranted here. Number one is you are already flushing the lines/cooler if you follow Trav's procedure. So no flush needed for the cooler or lines.

#2 is that LG red is proven (Trav has seen this) to reduce the trans temps. I would strongly consider it. You only need one cup for a typical slushbox.