Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Maddog1337
We settled on a purchase price of $4,000, which honestly is pretty good at 155K or 200K+. The vehicle drove great, no leaks, and minimal rust. However, I can't trust anything else that guy said, so I might be looking at large repairs down the road.
It's a 16 year old SUV with certainly over 155K so you might be looking at large repairs down the road anyway. Would you buy without hesitation if it didn't have the odometer issue? Either take it to mechanic for a quickie $60 ppi and or inform the seller about what you found out about the mileage and ask for a $500 price cut.
I nominate Atikovi as the resident expert in sniffing out questionable car sales. Not kidding- I think he (she?) has a lot of practical experience in this area. Personally I would pay for a Carfax to see what it says if you intend on going through with the deal. If your walking away, then omit it. I have a contact who is an auto insurance adjuster, and he can run a Carfax for me, but only gives me a verbal Yes-No if he thinks its worth a follow up. If Yes, then I go get my own copy.
Also re: Atikovi - I am not trying to be sarcastic- I bet you have a lot of secrets in spotting red-flags on used cars.
Originally Posted by Maddog1337
We settled on a purchase price of $4,000, which honestly is pretty good at 155K or 200K+. The vehicle drove great, no leaks, and minimal rust. However, I can't trust anything else that guy said, so I might be looking at large repairs down the road.
It's a 16 year old SUV with certainly over 155K so you might be looking at large repairs down the road anyway. Would you buy without hesitation if it didn't have the odometer issue? Either take it to mechanic for a quickie $60 ppi and or inform the seller about what you found out about the mileage and ask for a $500 price cut.
I nominate Atikovi as the resident expert in sniffing out questionable car sales. Not kidding- I think he (she?) has a lot of practical experience in this area. Personally I would pay for a Carfax to see what it says if you intend on going through with the deal. If your walking away, then omit it. I have a contact who is an auto insurance adjuster, and he can run a Carfax for me, but only gives me a verbal Yes-No if he thinks its worth a follow up. If Yes, then I go get my own copy.
Also re: Atikovi - I am not trying to be sarcastic- I bet you have a lot of secrets in spotting red-flags on used cars.