4L80E build

[clinebarger]

Drill the orifice out @ half way on one side of the plate.....Then flip it over & finish it off.
If you do end up with "flags".....Use a larger bit & slightly chamfer the opening to remove the flag.

On more precise/smaller orifices (Under @ .076".....I use a "Hand Drill", Probably not the correct term for it, I'll post a pic if needed.

A "Lip Wizard" is the easiest solution for a beginner.......https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxOQJ4mvz7Y

I'll gladly send you couple of them if needed!

 

[P10crew]

Very good plan. I'll look in the wit kit tonight and see if the wizard is in there.

Are those hole size's that you posted earlier in the thread still the viable choice for this application?

Should I drill the centrifugal vent hole in the direct drum? If so what size

Am I correct by assuming that I do not use any lip seal in the bottom of the direct drum as part of the dual feeding and leave off the second from the top on the center support. This is all a little premature because I'll run the end play numbers past you and get some direction on the clutch stack up prior . Thanks

 

[P10crew]

Ok here is what is in the msrk the only part not in pics are the 2 plate gaskets

 

[P10crew]

 

[P10crew]

Stacked up to center support with no sonnax shims under the ck .0585 self lube, I have 18 thou. I have the silencer installed because it really stabilizes the planet carrier for this measurement. I am confident in saying that my repeatable measurement accuracy is +or - 1 thou.

 

[clinebarger]

CK must have changed suppliers on the thrust washer.......The one's I've gotten to this point where Black in color & of coarse thicker than the .061" GM piece.
Shim it .010" for .008" end-play & your good!

 

[P10crew]

Had to modify 2 of the .005 shims to allow them to set freely over the self lube legs. Without modification there would have been 30 thou interference.


The indicator shows .0075" just for s and giggles I disassembled the complete stack and restacked. .0075 again.
Let R buck?
I

 

[P10crew]

Sorry didn't see your last post

 

[P10crew]

Is this the correct stack up to check rear unit end play on both the 400 and the 80e?

 

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by P10crew

Are those hole size's that you posted earlier in the thread still the viable choice for this application?

Should I drill the centrifugal vent hole in the direct drum? If so what size

Am I correct by assuming that I do not use any lip seal in the bottom of the direct drum as part of the dual feeding and leave off the second from the top on the center support. This is all a little premature because I'll run the end play numbers past you and get some direction on the clutch stack up prior . Thanks


Yes, What I listed works well with the Sonnax Boost Valve & PR Spring, 3200 RPM Stall Converter, Heavy truck.......And STOCK pressure Offset value in the Tune/Calibration which is 90 PSI, Tuners love to max it out.
HPtuners now limits the offset to 96 PSI.....They used to let you go up to 125 PSI

Don't mess with the PC Solenoid adjustment screw either.

You can run them a little smaller if you want......It's much easy to enlarge them later than trying to make them smaller. Shift feel is a very subjective thing!!!
.086" 2nd
,086" 3rd
.093" 4th
Shifts will be a little soft 'til the frictions seat/break-in.

The High Rate return springs do a good job by themselves up to 6500 RPM, Above that......I highly recommend a Aluminum Direct Drum along with High Rate springs & a Bleed hole.
If you think you will kiss 7,000 RPM every once in a while......Drill a .055" bleed hole at the edge of the drum at a @ 45° angle. The Intermediate Sprag will still not like trying to stop the heavy iron drum that's spinning 10,500 RPM!!!!
At 6,500 engine RPM.....The Direct Drum will overrun at 9,750 RPM in 1st gear.
At 6,000 engine RPM.....The drum will spin at 9,000 RPM.

You are correct on the Dual Feed procedure.....Don't forget to plug the Direct Clutch Reverse Feed in the Case upon final assembly! It will cause a massive 3rd Clutch Apply Circuit leak if you don't.

I like to plug the Direct Clutch Reverse Feed hole in the Center Support as well. 700R4 TV Exhaust checkballs work great for this.....Though I'm sure you could work-up some kind of aluminum plug with your machining skills!!
This will prevent 3rd gear oil from leaking between the Center Support & Case.

 

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by P10crew


The indicator shows .0075" just for s and giggles I disassembled the complete stack and restacked. .0075 again.
Let R buck?
I


Yes sir!!

 

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by P10crew

Is this the correct stack up to check rear unit end play on both the 400 and the 80e?


That is correct.

 

[P10crew]

Ok great info !

Hmm forged crank, H beams, forged Carrillo's all TSP balanced......nope it's just a cruizer probably won't see 5500 but twice. ...

When I get rear end play set should I final assemble the rear stack into the case or will that assembly need to come back out or will the rear half stay in the case after that. If it can be final assembled in the case I'm going to have a bunch of stupid questions regarding clutch stacking next.

 

[clinebarger]

Once you set the Reaction Carrier & Rear Unit end-play......You can final assemble up to the Center Support!

 

[P10crew]

Thanks a lot !

 

[P10crew]

Made I nice little sonnax case bushing press

Rear unit end play
Roller and (2) 8 thou selectives
.0032 no downward force.
If I force the output into the case and zero out the indicator the output will spring back .0008. Resulting in .004 (maybe a tenth less) total loaded end play. Based on the possible combinations of the different selectives I can clearly see that I got lucky here.

 

[P10crew]

Installed the Sprag with cage lip down after scuffing both races with new red scotchbrite

This is top view of the old one

 

[P10crew]

Lightly coated both races with SPX red prior to assembly.

Race locks when rotated ccw.

Do I reuse the stock spiralock

 

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by P10crew
Resulting in .004 (maybe a tenth less) total loaded end play. Based on the possible combinations of the different selectives I can clearly see that I got lucky here.


It can get tricky at times.....Good job!


Originally Posted by P10crew
Race locks when rotated ccw.

Do I reuse the stock spiralock


Correct Race rotation.
I reuse the Spirolock's all the time, Just make sure it gets locked back down!........Good upgrade for TH400 as they used a standard snap ring.

 

[P10crew]

Original snap ring installed on ck ring.
I'm assuming that when pressure is applied to the bottom side of the piston that the springs will coil bind or will be just short of. With no upper alignment control of the springs I made the executive decision to put a very mild chamfer on the top of the spring pocket bore to aid with spring alignment issues.