4L80E build

[P10crew]

Jumped the gun on the last question. Looks like that instruction is in the ck kit. Any changes to what he calls out for drill diameters as far as the line-lube and drain back?

 

[P10crew]

Had to make one to test ride the measurements lol ...

 

[P10crew]

Cline what are your thoughts about pressing the new one in? Seems like we need to lube the od of the bushing. Fearing gauling .... that's a long haul to be pressing dry. Thoughts?

 

[P10crew]

Well the old one moved about .060 and the no.5 ran out of umpf

Going to make a locating fixture to mount in the hydraulic press.
Concerned now that were gonna booger up the bottom of the cs without having a bottom fixture that has a bore just bigger than the bushing OD.

 

[clinebarger]

Use a thin coat of assembly lube on the OD of the bushing during install. I'm sure your aware of lining up the lube holes.

Support the CS by a couple notched anvil plates where I highlighted in red & press it out with a hydraulic press. A 5 ton Arbor should have done it, But they are really in there sometimes!!

 

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by P10crew
Jumped the gun on the last question. Looks like that instruction is in the ck kit. Any changes to what he calls out for drill diameters as far as the line-lube and drain back?


Drill the holes just as the instructions state.....Their pump cover picture isn't the greatest.........

 

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by P10crew

Cline in my bushing kit they included 2 front stator support bushings an extra wide one and the normal width. Use the wide?

Also I cleaned up all of pump parts. All of the internal compononents are in good shape and good fit in the bores dry. Are there any historically high wear parts that should be replaced in the pump other than what you have previously called out.


Use the wide one.
Besides the End Plugs & Boost Sleeve we talked about, These are generally trouble free.

 

[P10crew]

I figured out why it only moved .060
Necked the 1.55" down to 1.5315" and it works like a dream.

 

[P10crew]

Cline thanks for the info
When I specify the sprags and rollers I just want to specify bw's ?

 

[clinebarger]

Intermediate 34 Element sprag, Borg Warner part# 06763AM, GM part# 8633173......
Alternate part# 34652A

Overdrive Roller Clutch GM part# 7471001
Alternate part# 34650

Low/Reverse Roller Clutch GM part# 7471009
Alternate part# 34654EA

I couldn't find Borg Warner part numbers for the OD & Lo/Reverse Roller Clutches, I buy my sprags & roller clutches from GM as WIT & Transtar have a hard time with their catalog not having different part numbers to differentiating between brands.

 

[clinebarger]

Are all the bushings Durabond?
Are they all seamless?

Did you get that kit from WIT? My location has a Durabond display but nothing in stock......

 

[P10crew]

Yes they are durabond and yes they came from wit and yes they are seamless. The clevite's that I am pressing out are seamed.
I am being serviced out of their Kentucky and Minnesota branch's

 

[P10crew]

 

[P10crew]

What fluid should I use?
I do have an in at my local gm dealer

 

[P10crew]

Also just called my sales woman at wit the last shipment of hd 34 element sprags are BW 34652A
$61

 

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by P10crew
What fluid should I use?
I do have an in at my local gm dealer



I've been running TES-295 approved ATF, Mobil Delvac 1 ATF is usually the cheapest followed by Castrol Transynd ATF.

 

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by P10crew
Yes they are durabond and yes they came from wit and yes they are seamless. The clevite's that I am pressing out are seamed.
I am being serviced out of their Kentucky and Minnesota branch's



Thanks for the part#

 

[clinebarger]

Tech Tip.....Installing the Direct Drum upon Final Assembly......

*Do Not install the Intermediate Sprag, Race, Retainer, Or Spiroloc on the Direct Drum 'til after performing these steps.....
*After having the unit built-up to the Intermediate clutch Pressure Plate....Ready for the Direct Drum/Intermediate Sprag assembly.
*Insert the Intermediate Sprag Race into the Intermediate Clutches & proceed to "Lace" the friction internal splines into the Sprag Race 'til the Race hits bottom.
*Center & adjust as necessary the Race by looking at the reveal between the Race & Intermediate Pressure Plate.
*Using the below tool screwed into the Center Support hold down bolt hole....Apply shop air(80-175psi) to the tool.
*Remove the the Race & assemble the Intermediate Sprag assembly onto the Direct Drum.
*Engage the Parking Pawl....Rotate the Output Shaft as needed for it to lock-in.
*Using 2 long hooked Awl's, Grab onto the Direct Drum return spring retainer.
*Lower the Direct Drum into the case barrel 'til it rests on the Sun Gear Shaft. Rotate the drum via the 2 Awl's in both directions.
*It will drop-in like butter! I've seen FAR to many bent Intermediate Frictions from folks trying to "Lace" the Intermediates with a loaded Direct Drum!
*Tighten the Center Support Bolt per instructions in the ATSG manual.

Using your old Center Support Bolt.....Weld a quick-disconnect fitting on it (Whatever style you use), I used a Mig & it's kinda ugly....But doesn't leak.

1st pic...The tool.
2ndt pic....Un-Laced Intermediates.
3rd pic.....Laced with my TH400 Race I use as a permanent lacing tool.
4th pic..... Shop air pressurizing the Intermediate Clutch.

 

[P10crew]

 

[P10crew]

Made a few more bushing drivers.
Put a .040" step in the rear planet carrier driver to set it just below flush.