4 cycle sae 10w30

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Its the same with respect to oil weight. Your car is 4 cycle by the way.

Some oils (Amsoil small engine oil) have additives to better tolerate the heat that comes from an air cooled engine. Especially when the cooling fins are covered with dried grass or a mouse nest.
 
There is some differences in the additive package but generally a 10w30 synthetic for a passenger car is superior to any mineral 10w30 even one designed for air cooled engines. The best of both worlds is a 10w30 synthetic designed for small engines like Amsoil SAE 30 / 10w30 small engine oil.
 
Its a Honda GVC 160, after the Arnold break in oil i Was planning on using Quaker State Conventional 10w30 in it.
 
That QS will work good but I prefer a 10w30 synthetic like Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W30 for more robust additive package and more resistance to high temperature deposits.
 
I run Castrol 30HD in mine. 30HD is pretty much the bomb for air cooled engines....IMO. I do run 15w40 in my Kohler. Dont know why, just had some lying around.
 
I'll second the recommendation for Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w30 in air cooled OPE. It has a HTHSV of 3.5 cP and higher ZDDP content than standard M1. Amsoil ASE 10w30/SAE 30 is also a great choice for this application.
 
For extreme conditions, hot and cold especially with air cooled engines we've found that in emergency pumps and generators if you absolutely need the best oil then an ester based synthetic oil is the choice. My daughter is still using my 1980's era Eager 1 Sears mower that has been run on ester based 5w30 oil. My son-in-law changes it based on the amount of gasoline used over the season. I agree that gasoline used is a good measure of the amount of work done by the engine and a good method to time oil changes. I use the same method for all my small engines and I'm thinking of applying it to my cars as well.
 
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