3800 S3, cleaning experiment Mobil EP 5W-30 + MMO

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I think it more falls in to the category of cost vs effectiveness.

Why spend $100 on a part when you can get a $30 that's nearly just as reliable but doesn't last quiet as long. If you do that it gives you an extra $80 to buy a better more important part. I think GM's have good drive trains. But iv never owned a remotely newer GM.

I think the main thing GM is guilty of is a lack of serouis field testing and prioriting parts.

Honda makes good cars but I believe Honda's best years where in the 90's back when Honda was really trying to prove themselves and their cars. They made virtually nothing on there budget cars since they knew for most buyers it would be there first car (teenager/college student) they wanted to make a car for this market to develop a life/brand loyalty.

They knew in the future they could get theses people to buy their higher end cars. I think after 2k their gpquality went down and has been going down ever since.
 
Thanks guys for commenting the MMO. This was the experience.

After a few miles that I added the MMO, the car ticks every time at start up the ticks disappear after 1 minute or so.(A noticeable tick sound). I didn't care because I read somewhere that this may mean that the car is extremely clean and rings are to freely (like all is too freely etc). After this oil change I put Pennzoil ultra 5w-30 and the car doesn't tick any more at star up. Remember this is hot all the time miami / fl.

What do you guys think of that?
 
I lean to the common elbows problem, but my coolant is almost transparent Prestone All Makes / Models. I'll follow the dye method that was recommended here, hopefully I'm right.

What bothers me is that it seems that 89k is too low mileage. The elbows should occur past 120K I believe.
 
I've replaced a few timing cover gaskets on the Series 3. Overall the lower intake gaskets are much better as far as failure goes.

A very good (and cheap) coolant lose fix are the large coolant pellets made by Bars or GM also sells them. The amount of pellets added depends on the cooling system capacity. I want to say 2 or 3 is enough for that. Just crush them up with something like a screwdriver handle on large paper, then fold the paper and direct the powder into the radiator.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18pc-GM-COOLANT-...R-/161010705967

http://www.leadfootautoparts.com/index.php/chemicals/cooling-system/radiator-stop-leak-pellets.html
 
Thanks for your suggestion.

If the elbows are bad, this pellets are able to contain the leak? Or this is mean to be used if the leak is inside the engine?

Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: Cani


What bothers me is that it seems that 89k is too low mileage. The elbows should occur past 120K I believe.


Well theyre plastic and time with coolant sitting on it doesnt care about mileage.

Also before you start pouring stuff in that radiator, get the system pressure tested for Pete's sake. Dont cause other problems in the long run.
 
Thank you, I'm working on the dye thing right now(cheap that can do it myself), then I'm going to do the pressure testing.

Please note that is not a huge amount of leak, I'll say a pint per 300 or so miles. Now I ask, the pressure test can detect this tiny leak? Please apologize me for my ignorance.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Put a couple of 12 oz bottles of lubeguard red in it, do not overfill. You might have to draw some out through the stick tube first.
Sometimes these transmissions get something sticking in the valve body. It cant hurt to try.

+1
Lubeguard Red works well in these transmissions. It is well documented by users and transmission shops that it improves shifting performance and eliminates shudder.
 
Originally Posted By: Cani
Thank you, I'm working on the dye thing right now(cheap that can do it myself), then I'm going to do the pressure testing.

Please note that is not a huge amount of leak, I'll say a pint per 300 or so miles. Now I ask, the pressure test can detect this tiny leak? Please apologize me for my ignorance.

With the ultraviolet dye, using a ultraviolet "black" light in a darkened area will instantly expose where your leak is coming from. If it is coming from the water pump, it will be ALL OVER that side of the engine.
Common places where these cars will develop coolant leaks are from the radiator tank seals and a cracked overflow tank, so don't overlook these areas.
 
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Originally Posted By: Cani
Thanks for your suggestion.

If the elbows are bad, this pellets are able to contain the leak? Or this is mean to be used if the leak is inside the engine?

Thanks


You're welcome. No, not for the elbows. Something real small such as timing cover or lower intake the pellets can take care of.
 
Hello all,

Thanks for all the suggestions. The leak was in the elbows. I manage to change the elbows(the new metal ones with the original GM O-Rings) during the past weekend and new belt. Everything is ok now. I used the new Prestone formula from Walmart.

Again, thanks to all for all the comments and suggestions.
 
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Originally Posted By: Cani
As a side note, it seems that the MMO didn't thin the oil.


Agreed, every UOA I've seen with MMO the viscosity was close to normal and nowhere near as thin as people and the viscosity calculator will tell you.
 
Coolant leaks can be a mother. The one I fixed recently only leaked when I was not looking for it. It was like trying to catch a cheating wife.

Well, one day while I was unloading the back, the coolant began to leak with the engine off 15 minutes after shutdown, and the jig was up.

My Caprice's overflow tank is higher than everything else in the system, gravity was pushing coolant out. For whatever reason, it never seemed to happen while driving. Just waited until I was gone, and then started taking a leak.

The dye is a good tool.
 
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