32k on Toyota engine... worth using Auto RX?

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Surfstar, I agree 100%. I have never in my life had sludge in anything I have owned from new or bought off of a family member. I have torn down a lot of my engine around 70,000-100,000 miles to build them up for high performance.

I tore down a 22RE run on Castrol GTX it's entire life of 80,000 mile that had Zero deposits in the engine. The combustion chambers wiped clean with a solvent dampened rag. All of the seals and gaskets were clean and in good shape. I wiped the block out with shop towels and sent it out. The machine shop I used was the same one I used for my customers engine build up's. The machine called me latter that day because they thought I had either sent them a new factory block or had purposely sent them a low milage 5000 mile engine to test their integraity(sp). He almost callled my a liar when I told him it had 80,000 miles on it and had not been clean or preeped other then wiped down with rags and a light solvent like brake cleaner.

Now with the above what would be served by doing a treatment of Auto-Rx. If you do not have sludge then what is the Auto-Rx going to prevent?

I can see useing an anti-oxident to help prevent sludge from forming or adding solvency to help prevent sludge. From my understanding Auto-Rx has no anti-oxident properties and does nothing to increase solvency so how does it prevent anything? The way I undetrstand it Auto-Rx can not prevent anything but can only clean.

If someone is useing a quality oil with an OCI that match's the vechile and oil combination sludge should not be an issue. Synthetic should do an even better job. Why bother to use a quality and expensive synthetic if I still have to use things like Auto-Rx and LC regularly.

I use additives mostly out of curiosity. I do not use any additive becasue I fill I need to.
 
just out of curiousity John, how did you break-in that motor with 80K miles that looked new? was it a mototune or manufacturer type break in?
 
quote:

Originally posted by surfstar:
JohnBrowning,
I agree that some people are getting TOO anal (we're all a little on here) by using ARX with engines under 100k on synthetic oil. i have 176k miles with the last 96k on M1 and feel that ARX wouldn't do anything for me as my car doesn't suggest it would benefit from it (no oil usage and MPGs are above EPA estimates; good compression).

If you're using a good oil with acceptable OCIs I feel there shouldn't be a need for ARX unless the engine is a sludge bucket or you bought a used car with unknown history.


Well, I'll take the other side. I have a 3800 V6 with ~175,000 miles on it. Always run with synthetic oil and good filters. Consumed 1 pint in 5,000 miles, beats the EPA numbers, and runs like a clock.

I ran Auto-RX through it, 1,500 mile clean and 2,000 mile rinse (both with conventional oil). The oil did not get dirty in either the clean or rinse phases.

The result, power is up (used to lose speed with cruise going up a grade, no longer loses any speed), MPG is up just slightly. I feel it was $$ well spent.
 
Personally, I would use something to help clean the intake system yearly.


Once the first few years are up, Toyota v6's have a nasty EGR-carbon problem. The EGR valves are over used to help achive ULEV status. Especially the OBD-II complient v6's with electronically controlled valves.


Typically, 5-10bhp of peak loss after 9-12 months of carbon buildup. It's so slow... It's never noticed until you clean it back out.
 
It's not just for sludge, but more importantly, the rings/lands [where we can't see].
A Rx seems to be the best product available for cleaning this vital area.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Toysrme:
Personally, I would use something to help clean the intake system yearly.


Once the first few years are up, Toyota v6's have a nasty EGR-carbon problem. The EGR valves are over used to help achive ULEV status. Especially the OBD-II complient v6's with electronically controlled valves.


Typically, 5-10bhp of peak loss after 9-12 months of carbon buildup. It's so slow... It's never noticed until you clean it back out.


Whats the best way to clean out the egr valve?
 
2003TRD, I do not know. It was a Toyota Demo vechile. When my dad bought it it had a few thousand miles on it and was covered with mud. The sales guy had not had it washed yet and had just got back from 4 wheeling it.
It was the first 1986 4Runner sold in Alabama. I can not remember the name of the dealership. We were liveing in Ft. Benning Ga. and this Toyota dealership in Alabamha was haveing a huge sale.

I do know that prior to me switching it over to synthetics in the late 1980's to early 1990's it was treated to Castrol GTX 20W50 year round in Ga. and 20W50 in the warm months and 10W40 dureing the winter in Germany. Dad seldom left the oil in the engine for more then 1500-1800 miles at a time. It always wore a radioactive orange can for an oil filter.

My family went 4 wheeling every weekend when we were in the USA. In Germany it saw 110 MPH speeds for long strech's. Dad used it often for work becasue his HMV was always down for repairs.

When I took it out of the 4Runner I was getting ready to but a stroker kit in it and turbo charge it.
 
Auto-Rx extends MTBF of oil lubricated rotating parts (Mean Time Between Failure)this is accomplished by giving clean metal for the oil to lubricate.I think this is significant as oil can't lubricate through dirt or any contaminants and skips to the next clean area of metal when there is dirt. Auto-Rx lets that oil lubricate every nook and cranny reducing metal to metal friction to the max.It is this abilty that cleans the ring packs -restores compression - restores combustion and help keep car out of the shop. As I write this another storm threatens us. With the threat of gas prices going up Auto-Rx does not profess to do everything (we can't fix broken parts) however I know it does the above.I guarantee it.
 
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