Getting ready for work I decided to do a cold start video on my baby on the coldest day of the year. -40F windchill with Rotella 10w30 syn blend and a Parts Master 61515 filter.
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-30F Cold Start!!
- Thread starter SEMI_287
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Did it ever end up building oil pressure 
?
?It didn't sound bad at all, but 10W is pretty thick for those temps!
Why would you be running 10w30 during winter in NY? I mean, if you're trying to kill the motor that'd be one thing. Otherwise, stupid.
Originally Posted By: mechjames
Did it ever end up building oil pressure?
Oh yeah. I ran to check my horse and came back and checked and she was sitting right at 80. Only took about a minute.
Originally Posted By: rpn453
It didn't sound bad at all, but 10W is pretty thick for those temps!
Yeah, it's rarely that cold ever here! She usually builds right up to 80 within a few seconds but it happened to be colder than a witches chest area that morning.
Originally Posted By: meangreen01
Why would you be running 10w30 during winter in NY? I mean, if you're trying to kill the motor that'd be one thing. Otherwise, stupid.
Our average temperature is usually in the 30's. No problem for a 10w. This just happened to be the coldest day we've had in a few years.
Did it ever end up building oil pressure
?Oh yeah. I ran to check my horse and came back and checked and she was sitting right at 80. Only took about a minute.
Originally Posted By: rpn453
It didn't sound bad at all, but 10W is pretty thick for those temps!
Yeah, it's rarely that cold ever here! She usually builds right up to 80 within a few seconds but it happened to be colder than a witches chest area that morning.
Originally Posted By: meangreen01
Why would you be running 10w30 during winter in NY? I mean, if you're trying to kill the motor that'd be one thing. Otherwise, stupid.
Our average temperature is usually in the 30's. No problem for a 10w. This just happened to be the coldest day we've had in a few years.
Originally Posted By: SEMI_287
Originally Posted By: meangreen01
Why would you be running 10w30 during winter in NY? I mean, if you're trying to kill the motor that'd be one thing. Otherwise, stupid.
Our average temperature is usually in the 30's. No problem for a 10w. This just happened to be the coldest day we've had in a few years.
I've got a 4.7 and live in a similar climate at risk of extreme low temps too. The manual specs 5w30 as the suitable lube year 'round. No way would I ever run 10w30 in the winter. In fact I've considered running 0w during winter and 5w summer, but it's the "extra" vehicle in the stable and I'm too cheap to put syn in it. IMO 10w is too thick in this engine for winter use in upstate NY.
Originally Posted By: meangreen01
Why would you be running 10w30 during winter in NY? I mean, if you're trying to kill the motor that'd be one thing. Otherwise, stupid.
Our average temperature is usually in the 30's. No problem for a 10w. This just happened to be the coldest day we've had in a few years.
I've got a 4.7 and live in a similar climate at risk of extreme low temps too. The manual specs 5w30 as the suitable lube year 'round. No way would I ever run 10w30 in the winter. In fact I've considered running 0w during winter and 5w summer, but it's the "extra" vehicle in the stable and I'm too cheap to put syn in it. IMO 10w is too thick in this engine for winter use in upstate NY.
Hard for me not to wonder what that start would have been like with a 0w30.
I've never had any problems with it. Actually I was going to run Mobil 1 0w30 in it for this run but I noticed the fantastic oil pan rust finally made it through a little bit and it leaking. So I put Valvoline 10w30 in it until it gets 'warm' enough to change the beast. But after that morning 5w30 is what its going to see.
Originally Posted By: SEMI_287
I've never had any problems with it. Actually I was going to run Mobil 1 0w30 in it for this run but I noticed the fantastic oil pan rust finally made it through a little bit and it leaking. So I put Valvoline 10w30 in it until it gets 'warm' enough to change the beast. But after that morning 5w30 is what its going to see.
I've got that rust on the oil pan AND trans pan. Is it only a matter of time, or is it thick enough to stave off leak-through? I won't be looking forward to having to replace the oil pan.
I've never had any problems with it. Actually I was going to run Mobil 1 0w30 in it for this run but I noticed the fantastic oil pan rust finally made it through a little bit and it leaking. So I put Valvoline 10w30 in it until it gets 'warm' enough to change the beast. But after that morning 5w30 is what its going to see.
I've got that rust on the oil pan AND trans pan. Is it only a matter of time, or is it thick enough to stave off leak-through? I won't be looking forward to having to replace the oil pan.
Originally Posted By: meangreen01
Originally Posted By: SEMI_287
I've never had any problems with it. Actually I was going to run Mobil 1 0w30 in it for this run but I noticed the fantastic oil pan rust finally made it through a little bit and it leaking. So I put Valvoline 10w30 in it until it gets 'warm' enough to change the beast. But after that morning 5w30 is what its going to see.
I've got that rust on the oil pan AND trans pan. Is it only a matter of time, or is it thick enough to stave off leak-through? I won't be looking forward to having to replace the oil pan.
I just measured my new pan any they're only about 3/16th of an inch thick. 4.7 pan are incredibly hard to find, I've been looking EVERYWHERE for them. Rockauto has them in stock now, I payed $82 shipped for mine.
Originally Posted By: SEMI_287
I've never had any problems with it. Actually I was going to run Mobil 1 0w30 in it for this run but I noticed the fantastic oil pan rust finally made it through a little bit and it leaking. So I put Valvoline 10w30 in it until it gets 'warm' enough to change the beast. But after that morning 5w30 is what its going to see.
I've got that rust on the oil pan AND trans pan. Is it only a matter of time, or is it thick enough to stave off leak-through? I won't be looking forward to having to replace the oil pan.
I just measured my new pan any they're only about 3/16th of an inch thick. 4.7 pan are incredibly hard to find, I've been looking EVERYWHERE for them. Rockauto has them in stock now, I payed $82 shipped for mine.
And for comparison here is a video I JUST made. Valvoline 10w30 and a P1 filter.
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Looks like a 43 degree temp change makes a difference. Thanks for the vid and oil pan insight.
Anytime! I hope the Durango is as easy as the Jeep to change!
Thx for the vids... I wish I had a oil pressure gauge. Maybe one of these days I will add one.
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Originally Posted By: Texan4Life
Thx for the vids... I wish I had a oil pressure gauge. Maybe one of these days I will add one.
Oil pressure gauge is a mandatory gauge for me....and to think we were just discussing gauges on another thread were some folks felt an oil pressure gauge was not needed...
Thx for the vids... I wish I had a oil pressure gauge. Maybe one of these days I will add one.
Oil pressure gauge is a mandatory gauge for me....and to think we were just discussing gauges on another thread were some folks felt an oil pressure gauge was not needed...
Strange that the oil pressure never builds. I've seen M1 10w30 at -15F and the oil pressure popped up pretty normally.
Originally Posted By: cchase
Strange that the oil pressure never builds.
Rotella T5 10w30 is a thick 10w30 with CCS/MRV numbers near the limit of the SAE 10w test. I'm guessing the oil pump had major cavitation and wasn't able to pump that thick oil hardly at all! -12F is about the safe limit for a 10w-xx per SAE testing, unless you're talking about a full synthetic with very low MRV/CCS numbers. Some synthetic 10w30s I think would pass the SAE 5w test.
Strange that the oil pressure never builds.
Rotella T5 10w30 is a thick 10w30 with CCS/MRV numbers near the limit of the SAE 10w test. I'm guessing the oil pump had major cavitation and wasn't able to pump that thick oil hardly at all! -12F is about the safe limit for a 10w-xx per SAE testing, unless you're talking about a full synthetic with very low MRV/CCS numbers. Some synthetic 10w30s I think would pass the SAE 5w test.
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Originally Posted By: Texan4Life
Thx for the vids... I wish I had a oil pressure gauge. Maybe one of these days I will add one.
Oil pressure gauge is a mandatory gauge for me....and to think we were just discussing gauges on another thread were some folks felt an oil pressure gauge was not needed...
I like to have both oil pressure and temperature gauges, but if I only can get 1 gauge then I would choose oil temperature.
I bought an Ultra gauge thinking that it would display the oil temp via OBD-II connector, but it didn't with either the E430 or S2000.
Originally Posted By: Texan4Life
Thx for the vids... I wish I had a oil pressure gauge. Maybe one of these days I will add one.
Oil pressure gauge is a mandatory gauge for me....and to think we were just discussing gauges on another thread were some folks felt an oil pressure gauge was not needed...
I like to have both oil pressure and temperature gauges, but if I only can get 1 gauge then I would choose oil temperature.
I bought an Ultra gauge thinking that it would display the oil temp via OBD-II connector, but it didn't with either the E430 or S2000.
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