3 valve 5.4

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I am looking to change the oil in my F250 for the winter. I have 10w40 in it now, in accordance with the OASIS message from Ford. It is quieter and runs well. I am considering a synthetic HDEO for the winter, either a 10w-30 or a 5w-40 for better cold starting and flow. I am leaning towards the 5w-40. Any thoughts or recommendations on brand? I always run a motorcraft FL-820S.
 
As a modular owner, I took an interest in this subject when I first bought my FX4. I have never seen the OASIS message anywhere except on the Internet, only as an image, and always the same one with the tell-tale underlining of the words "10W-40". I have read that Ford pulled this OASIS which is why it is no longer available except in the format below.

Why are you running 10W-40? Was your modular noisy? I have been running xW-20 for the last 156,000 miles with zero issues. If a heavier oil is wanted, what about M1 0W-30 AFE or 0W-40 instead of HDEO?

dealerr.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
As a modular owner, I took an interest in this subject when I first bought my FX4. I have never seen the OASIS message anywhere except on the Internet, only as an image, and always the same one with the tell-tale underlining of the words "10W-40". I have read that Ford pulled this OASIS which is why it is no longer available except in the format below.

Why are you running 10W-40? Was your modular noisy? I have been running xW-20 for the last 156,000 miles with zero issues. If a heavier oil is wanted, what about M1 0W-30 AFE or 0W-40 instead of HDEO?

dealerr.jpg


Yep, it was a little noisy. 0w-XX is more expensive, and I like HDEO, it is by definition more robust with a better add-pack. In regard to expense, I don't drive a 10 year old truck because I am overflowing with money!
 
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I run castrol 0w40 in mine. Runs quiet at all times. -60C pour point for easy cold starts and a light 40 weight when it's hot.
 
Why not go for a cleaner running A3,B4 xw-30 grade, you like likey don't need the extra viscosity at 190F, but possibly could use the better much HTHS.

Or Not ... Ive enjoyed 10w40 in noisy cars (I recall a 2001 Stratus R/T 3Lv6 and of course the Ej subaru)usually only a qt or 2 to the sump fill does the trick though. The goal was trying to balance responsiveness and fuel mileage with quiet running. Seemed to work.
 
I've found that any 5w30 is quieter than any 5w20 in my 2006 3v.

I've not tried an x-40 oil since I've gotten good results from the 30wt.

Currently in using castrol edge 5w30 which is on the high side of the 30wt scale with very good results. Stays quiet through the whole oci which has not been the case with every oil.

You've been running 40wt oil already so I don't see a reason that a 5w40 hdeo wouldn't also work well. I've his not seen a need with mine to go up two grades. I got what I wanted with one grade up.
 
If your going to use a 5/40 I would go with Shell Rotella 5/40 its good to around -25F and I don't think Tennessee gets that cold. Its a good oil that won't mt your wallet.

ROD
 
There is nowhere in TN that ever gets cold enough to warrant a syn for the sake of temps. Nowhere at all. Do this because you "want" to; that's fine. But not for one second do I believe your engine or area necessitates the choice of a syn, nor a thick lube. In fact, I would be cautious about using too thick of a grade; doesn't the 5.4L 3v use VVT? Generally, the modular motors hold us well regardless of what grade is used. I don't believe you'll really harm the engine. But the use of a 40 grade may alter the performance of the VVT just for the sake of quieting the engine. If that's a trade you can live with, so be it.

I see zero reason you need a HDEO here. Even if you want a thicker grade, and a syn, why do you want an HDEO? There are plenty of Xw-40 PCMOs to choose from.


Also - are you stating there is an OASIS message out to run 10w-40 in the 5.4L 3v? could you link it or copy/paste verbatim please? I see lots of claims of existence, but I see no direct evidence of such.
 
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Originally Posted By: dnewton3

Also - are you stating there is an OASIS message out to run 10w-40 in the 5.4L 3v? could you link it or copy/paste verbatim please? I see lots of claims of existence, but I see no direct evidence of such.


I'm not sure it ever was real
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
There is nowhere in TN that ever gets cold enough to warrant a syn for the sake of temps. Nowhere at all. Do this because you "want" to; that's fine. But not for one second do I believe your engine or area necessitates the choice of a syn, nor a thick lube. In fact, I would be cautious about using too thick of a grade; doesn't the 5.4L 3v use VVT? Generally, the modular motors hold us well regardless of what grade is used. I don't believe you'll really harm the engine. But the use of a 40 grade may alter the performance of the VVT just for the sake of quieting the engine. If that's a trade you can live with, so be it.

I see zero reason you need a HDEO here. Even if you want a thicker grade, and a syn, why do you want an HDEO? There are plenty of Xw-40 PCMOs to choose from.


Also - are you stating there is an OASIS message out to run 10w-40 in the 5.4L 3v? could you link it or copy/paste verbatim please? I see lots of claims of existence, but I see no direct evidence of such.

Do you read posts? Someone in this thread already posted the OASIS. Variable CAM timing has been datalogged in 5.4s. Oil viscosity is of almost insignificant effect on solenoid actuation. I really get tired of your posts. I give not one iota of a [censored] about your opinion on if HDEO is the right choice. I made the choice. I am a relatively smart guy. I never asked your opinion on IF HDEO was a good choice. I asked if anyone had thoughts on 5w-40 or 10w-30 HDEO as a better call. How about answering the question asked or shutting up? You're a smart guy, but your posts are typically quite arrogant. How about stick to the topic, or start your own thread titled "why 3 valve 5.4s don't need HDEO, and the winters in tennessee don't require synthetic". Then I will start one about the effects of too thick oil on hydraulic timing chain tensioner seals on 5.4 3V engines. Do you just troll posts looking to disagree with people? Thats all I ever see you do.
 
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Originally Posted By: 95busa
Any thoughts or recommendations on brand?


Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck has been shown to mostly eliminate VCT tick when up to operating temps.
 
I guess this kinda blows a hole in some peoples theory that 10w40 is right there with molasses. Truth be told 5w20/5w30/10w30/10w40 isn't going to be a game changer.
 
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
I guess this kinda blows a hole in some peoples theory that 10w40 is right there with molasses. Truth be told 5w20/5w30/10w30/10w40 isn't going to be a game changer.


There is thousands if not tens of thousands of these 5.4's in various city, county, state and federal fleet use that is getting 15W-40 in these engines. Not that big of a deal.
 
Originally Posted By: 95busa
Do you read posts? Someone in this thread already posted the OASIS. Variable CAM timing has been datalogged in 5.4s. Oil viscosity is of almost insignificant effect on solenoid actuation. I really get tired of your posts. I give not one iota of a [censored] about your opinion on if HDEO is the right choice. I made the choice. I am a relatively smart guy. I never asked your opinion on IF HDEO was a good choice. I asked if anyone had thoughts on 5w-40 or 10w-30 HDEO as a better call. How about answering the question asked or shutting up? You're a smart guy, but your posts are typically quite arrogant. How about stick to the topic, or start your own thread titled "why 3 valve 5.4s don't need HDEO, and the winters in tennessee don't require synthetic". Then I will start one about the effects of too thick oil on hydraulic timing chain tensioner seals on 5.4 3V engines. Do you just troll posts looking to disagree with people? Thats all I ever see you do.



My apologies; when I first posted I was unable to view the embedded image because I was at work and I have no control over the firewall they implement (and so I unaware that 2010FX4 had posted it because it was blocked from my view). Now that I'm at home, I can see the image. Sorry that I missed it at first. Sorry that my missing it apparently angered you.

Sorry that I took your invitation as a means for all to throw in their opinions; after all, you did state this ...
"Team- ..... Any thoughts or recommendations on brand? ...."

Apparently you've been happy with the 10w-40 to this point, so what makes you want to change to a different base and grade now? Why HDEO? Why syn? What happened (or is about to happen) that makes the current 10w-40 undesirable as soon as "winter" comes around. What happens in TN that is so terrible that your current oil is suddenly unworthy, when it's made you happy up to this point? If you are so smart, then you should be able to clearly articulate just HOW and WHY the 10w-40 is so good during summer, but not in winter. Please educate me with facts and credible data.

Typical of most BITOG posts here, you have not shared with us the criteria you're using to judge this effect you seek; that of a "better" flow at start up. So, given your area and average low temps, what is the mean time to "flow" as measured with your 10w-40? What deviation is typical? How do you even know that a 10w-30 or 5w-40 is going to really be "better" in terms of measurable, quantifiable performance? For something to be "better" in this regard, you must have some data that shows the 10w-40 is going to fail and your engine implode, right? Because to be "better", a competing product must be able to show a definitive advantage that is actually tangible. As we know, when it comes to wear, the mod motors really don't care about grade/brand. And as you've indicated above, the cam phasing is apparently unaffected by the vis. So .....
What is the basis of you needing a "better" oil than the 10w-40 that is already making you happy? Your area is not cold enough to make any difference. Your wear rates are not going to be affected. Your cam phaser is (by your claim) not an issue. So, with just one rational, clear, articulate sentence, please advise us why you need a different lube in the first place.

This isn't about need; it's about what you want. And what you want is for some folks to agree with you so you feel justified in your added expense of syns for winter. I obviously misinterpreted your intent; I assumed you wanted the "team" to contribute. Understandably, now, you simply want others to chime in and corroborate your "need" (aka want) to do this. And those of us who disagree are not to be heard from. My mistake. Sorry 'bout that.
 
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Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: 95busa
Do you read posts? Someone in this thread already posted the OASIS. Variable CAM timing has been datalogged in 5.4s. Oil viscosity is of almost insignificant effect on solenoid actuation. I really get tired of your posts. I give not one iota of a [censored] about your opinion on if HDEO is the right choice. I made the choice. I am a relatively smart guy. I never asked your opinion on IF HDEO was a good choice. I asked if anyone had thoughts on 5w-40 or 10w-30 HDEO as a better call. How about answering the question asked or shutting up? You're a smart guy, but your posts are typically quite arrogant. How about stick to the topic, or start your own thread titled "why 3 valve 5.4s don't need HDEO, and the winters in tennessee don't require synthetic". Then I will start one about the effects of too thick oil on hydraulic timing chain tensioner seals on 5.4 3V engines. Do you just troll posts looking to disagree with people? Thats all I ever see you do.



My apologies; when I first posted I was unable to view the embedded image because I was at work and I have no control over the firewall they implement (and so I unaware that 2010FX4 had posted it because it was blocked from my view). Now that I'm at home, I can see the image. Sorry that I missed it at first. Sorry that my missing it apparently angered you.

Sorry that I took your invitation as a means for all to throw in their opinions; after all, you did state this ...
"Team- ..... Any thoughts or recommendations on brand? ...."

Apparently you've been happy with the 10w-40 to this point, so what makes you want to change to a different base and grade now? Why HDEO? Why syn? What happened (or is about to happen) that makes the current 10w-40 undesirable as soon as "winter" comes around. What happens in TN that is so terrible that your current oil is suddenly unworthy, when it's made you happy up to this point? If you are so smart, then you should be able to clearly articulate just HOW and WHY the 10w-40 is so good during summer, but not in winter. Please educate me with facts and credible data.

Typical of most BITOG posts here, you have not shared with us the criteria you're using to judge this effect you seek; that of a "better" flow at start up. So, given your area and average low temps, what is the mean time to "flow" as measured with your 10w-40? What deviation is typical? How do you even know that a 10w-30 or 5w-40 is going to really be "better" in terms of measurable, quantifiable performance? For something to be "better" in this regard, you must have some data that shows the 10w-40 is going to fail and your engine implode, right? Because to be "better", a competing product must be able to show a definitive advantage that is actually tangible. As we know, when it comes to wear, the mod motors really don't care about grade/brand. And as you've indicated above, the cam phasing is apparently unaffected by the vis. So .....
What is the basis of you needing a "better" oil than the 10w-40 that is already making you happy? Your area is not cold enough to make any difference. Your wear rates are not going to be affected. Your cam phaser is (by your claim) not an issue. So, with just one rational, clear, articulate sentence, please advise us why you need a different lube in the first place.

This isn't about need; it's about what you want. And what you want is for some folks to agree with you so you feel justified in your added expense of syns for winter. I obviously misinterpreted your intent; I assumed you wanted the "team" to contribute. Understandably, now, you simply want others to chime in and corroborate your "need" (aka want) to do this. And those of us who disagree are not to be heard from. My mistake. Sorry 'bout that.

No. You insist on answering a question that was not asked
 
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