What oil are you running in your Toyota, Lexus 3.5 V6 2GR-FE engine?
3.5L 6-cyl Engine Code 2GR-FE
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Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 in one...still factory fill in the other.
Toyota 0w20
Originally Posted By: JAC43
I run either Quaker State 5w30 green bottle or Pennzoil 5w30 with Toyota OEM filters on my 07 Camry 2GR-FE. Sure is a noisy engine on cold starts but runs like a sewing machine when warm.
You have a sticky vvt-i controller. Kreen will fix that. Then a switch to synthetics will keep it.
I run either Quaker State 5w30 green bottle or Pennzoil 5w30 with Toyota OEM filters on my 07 Camry 2GR-FE. Sure is a noisy engine on cold starts but runs like a sewing machine when warm.
You have a sticky vvt-i controller. Kreen will fix that. Then a switch to synthetics will keep it.
It's piston slap if quiet when hot.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Toyota 0w20
This.
Toyota 0w20
This.
Don't know about others here, but my 2GRFE Avalon is rated for 30 weight oil, not 20 weight. I'm running the Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30. Seems to be doing fine. I plan to do a used oil analysis on the next change. I've also been looking for some info on doing an ATF drain-and-fill.
2008 Sienna: Used as a tow vehicle (towing 5,000 lb) boat/trailer combo used in watershows on a commercial basis.)
Often long distances on HOT weekends.
Mobil 1 0W20, Toyota Filters (dealer sells them with a coupon 2 for 10 bucks carryout) and 10 K oil changes.
Currently 53,000 miles. Burns no measurable oil during that time. No repairs of any kind on this vehicle since new, except spare tire hold down recall.
Often long distances on HOT weekends.
Mobil 1 0W20, Toyota Filters (dealer sells them with a coupon 2 for 10 bucks carryout) and 10 K oil changes.
Currently 53,000 miles. Burns no measurable oil during that time. No repairs of any kind on this vehicle since new, except spare tire hold down recall.
Originally Posted By: fsskier
2008 Sienna: Used as a tow vehicle (towing 5,000 lb) boat/trailer combo used in watershows on a commercial basis.)
Often long distances on HOT weekends.
Mobil 1 0W20, Toyota Filters (dealer sells them with a coupon 2 for 10 bucks carryout) and 10 K oil changes.
Currently 53,000 miles. Burns no measurable oil during that time. No repairs of any kind on this vehicle since new, except spare tire hold down recall.
How do you know what your doing is ok? Miles are low 53k, can't go by that. UOA?
2008 Sienna: Used as a tow vehicle (towing 5,000 lb) boat/trailer combo used in watershows on a commercial basis.)
Often long distances on HOT weekends.
Mobil 1 0W20, Toyota Filters (dealer sells them with a coupon 2 for 10 bucks carryout) and 10 K oil changes.
Currently 53,000 miles. Burns no measurable oil during that time. No repairs of any kind on this vehicle since new, except spare tire hold down recall.
How do you know what your doing is ok? Miles are low 53k, can't go by that. UOA?
Originally Posted By: Tones
Don't know about others here, but my 2GRFE Avalon is rated for 30 weight oil, not 20 weight. I'm running the Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30. Seems to be doing fine. I plan to do a used oil analysis on the next change. I've also been looking for some info on doing an ATF drain-and-fill.
Ok here is what you need:
1. 13 quarts WS fluid, fluid level check plug crush washer
2. clear 1 gallon volume graduated painters bucket. (true value $2)
3. 2 foot 3/8 clear tubing
4. 5mm 3/8 hex socket, 3/8 ratchet, fill plug socket (mine is 15/16) 10mm socket, short extension.
5. IR thrermometer gun
6. funnel with 2 foot 1/2 hose attached.
7. pliers
8. torque wrench
9. a helper to start stop engine.
DO THIS WITH ENGINE COMPLETELY COLD.
1. Locate fill plug. Mine is behind a small plastic cover in drivers wheel well (2 10mm bolts) It will have WS stamped on it. Loosen to finger tight.
2. Locate two hoses routed into bottom of radiator from trans. You will most likely have to remove the drivers side underbody plastic panel to get at this. The drivers side hose on mine is the return line and this is the one you want
3. Break loose the fluid check plug on the trans pan and keep in finger tight.
4. Place catch pan under fluid check pplug and remove. You should get 1 quart out. Put plug back in finger tight. Add one quart of WS in fill hole.
5. Remove cooler hose and slip tubing over metal pipe and route BOTH hoses into bucket.
6. Have helper start vehicle...you will see which hose the fluid squirts into bucket. At the first sign of air spitting (2 quarts) shut off engine immediately. This should only take about 45 seconds to pump out. Then add 2 quarts of WS in fill hole
7. repeat this process until you have put 12 quarts through or fluid id bright red and new looking making sure to NOT run the trans dry. Adding back as much as comes out (as close as possible)
8. Put cooler line hose back on securly.
9. At this point you should have drained 12 and added 12 quarts and your fluid coming back should look new.
10. Add 1/2 quart in fill hole. Tighten fill hole plug.
11. With vehicle level (I put a level on the trans pan bottom and jsck the front of mine up about 6") Start vehicle and cycle through PRND432L to get fluid pumped throughout the trans. Taking temp readings with the IR thermometer at several points on the pan.
12. On a cold vehicle it will take 5-10 min to get to 115F which is the temp you want for correct fluid expansion and level check. (double check your owners manual or service manual for the temp.)
13. When you get a 115F reading with engine idling remove check plug and allow fluid to drain and replacing crush washer on plug. When fluid drians to a trickle (10-15 seconds) replace check plug and tighten.
14. Double check plugs & cooler line connections for leaks.
15. test drive vehicle.
16. check for leaks again.
17. replace plastic under body panels.
18. reward self with 40F malt beverage.
19. Some recommend you remove negative battery terminal for trans ECM to do a relearn but I didn't. I did notice crisper shifting for a few days but now is perfect.
_________________________
Don't know about others here, but my 2GRFE Avalon is rated for 30 weight oil, not 20 weight. I'm running the Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30. Seems to be doing fine. I plan to do a used oil analysis on the next change. I've also been looking for some info on doing an ATF drain-and-fill.
Ok here is what you need:
1. 13 quarts WS fluid, fluid level check plug crush washer
2. clear 1 gallon volume graduated painters bucket. (true value $2)
3. 2 foot 3/8 clear tubing
4. 5mm 3/8 hex socket, 3/8 ratchet, fill plug socket (mine is 15/16) 10mm socket, short extension.
5. IR thrermometer gun
6. funnel with 2 foot 1/2 hose attached.
7. pliers
8. torque wrench
9. a helper to start stop engine.
DO THIS WITH ENGINE COMPLETELY COLD.
1. Locate fill plug. Mine is behind a small plastic cover in drivers wheel well (2 10mm bolts) It will have WS stamped on it. Loosen to finger tight.
2. Locate two hoses routed into bottom of radiator from trans. You will most likely have to remove the drivers side underbody plastic panel to get at this. The drivers side hose on mine is the return line and this is the one you want
3. Break loose the fluid check plug on the trans pan and keep in finger tight.
4. Place catch pan under fluid check pplug and remove. You should get 1 quart out. Put plug back in finger tight. Add one quart of WS in fill hole.
5. Remove cooler hose and slip tubing over metal pipe and route BOTH hoses into bucket.
6. Have helper start vehicle...you will see which hose the fluid squirts into bucket. At the first sign of air spitting (2 quarts) shut off engine immediately. This should only take about 45 seconds to pump out. Then add 2 quarts of WS in fill hole
7. repeat this process until you have put 12 quarts through or fluid id bright red and new looking making sure to NOT run the trans dry. Adding back as much as comes out (as close as possible)
8. Put cooler line hose back on securly.
9. At this point you should have drained 12 and added 12 quarts and your fluid coming back should look new.
10. Add 1/2 quart in fill hole. Tighten fill hole plug.
11. With vehicle level (I put a level on the trans pan bottom and jsck the front of mine up about 6") Start vehicle and cycle through PRND432L to get fluid pumped throughout the trans. Taking temp readings with the IR thermometer at several points on the pan.
12. On a cold vehicle it will take 5-10 min to get to 115F which is the temp you want for correct fluid expansion and level check. (double check your owners manual or service manual for the temp.)
13. When you get a 115F reading with engine idling remove check plug and allow fluid to drain and replacing crush washer on plug. When fluid drians to a trickle (10-15 seconds) replace check plug and tighten.
14. Double check plugs & cooler line connections for leaks.
15. test drive vehicle.
16. check for leaks again.
17. replace plastic under body panels.
18. reward self with 40F malt beverage.
19. Some recommend you remove negative battery terminal for trans ECM to do a relearn but I didn't. I did notice crisper shifting for a few days but now is perfect.
_________________________
Wow, thanks for the info, much appreciated.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: fsskier
2008 Sienna: Used as a tow vehicle (towing 5,000 lb) boat/trailer combo used in watershows on a commercial basis.)
Often long distances on HOT weekends.
Mobil 1 0W20, Toyota Filters (dealer sells them with a coupon 2 for 10 bucks carryout) and 10 K oil changes.
Currently 53,000 miles. Burns no measurable oil during that time. No repairs of any kind on this vehicle since new, except spare tire hold down recall.
How do you know what your doing is ok? Miles are low 53k, can't go by that. used oil analysis?
Well of course a used oil analysis gives precious little if any information on wear, so.......
Previous Tow Vehicle, 1994 3.1 Litre Chevrolet APV towing the same loads ran 300,000 miles on 0W20 and the motor still seemed like brand new..... did not burn, leak or drip oil, looked clean through the filler hole, what more could I want?
I expect that the reduction in wear during the warm up cycle will greatly exceed any possible difference after warmed up.
And I really like the bullet proof cold starting on our annual winter snowskiing trips. Although "everybody" claims their car starts at -40f..... when it is that cold it seems the entire Hotel/motel lot is full of non-starting cars as we drive out. Then, Toyota seems confident, so why should I not be??
Originally Posted By: fsskier
2008 Sienna: Used as a tow vehicle (towing 5,000 lb) boat/trailer combo used in watershows on a commercial basis.)
Often long distances on HOT weekends.
Mobil 1 0W20, Toyota Filters (dealer sells them with a coupon 2 for 10 bucks carryout) and 10 K oil changes.
Currently 53,000 miles. Burns no measurable oil during that time. No repairs of any kind on this vehicle since new, except spare tire hold down recall.
How do you know what your doing is ok? Miles are low 53k, can't go by that. used oil analysis?
Well of course a used oil analysis gives precious little if any information on wear, so.......
Previous Tow Vehicle, 1994 3.1 Litre Chevrolet APV towing the same loads ran 300,000 miles on 0W20 and the motor still seemed like brand new..... did not burn, leak or drip oil, looked clean through the filler hole, what more could I want?
I expect that the reduction in wear during the warm up cycle will greatly exceed any possible difference after warmed up.
And I really like the bullet proof cold starting on our annual winter snowskiing trips. Although "everybody" claims their car starts at -40f..... when it is that cold it seems the entire Hotel/motel lot is full of non-starting cars as we drive out. Then, Toyota seems confident, so why should I not be??
I should add the following: Years ago someone questioned why I would run 0W20 if it only gave me 1 percent better mileage. Now only labs can determine a number that precise so I asked the question in reverse: If I ran 5W30, or maybe just tied an ice cream bucket to my roof rack my mileage would likely go down 1 percent.
But why would I do that??
But why would I do that??
In my 09V6 Camry (purchased 04/08) currently with 44,000 miles I have always followed 6mo/5K rule at dealer. I used Pennzoil Conventional 5w30 until last 2 oil changes then switched to Mobil 1 5W30. Behavior of engine the same with both oils including looking super clean for at least 1,000 miles, zero oil consumption, and still looking clean when change was due.
From now on, with M1, plan to go 7,500 miles/9 months ... whichever is first figuring I'll be safe based on oil analysis below. Does anyone disagree ? (no severe service):
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2049804
From now on, with M1, plan to go 7,500 miles/9 months ... whichever is first figuring I'll be safe based on oil analysis below. Does anyone disagree ? (no severe service):
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2049804
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Paul3637
In my 09V6 Camry (purchased 04/08) currently with 44,000 miles I have always followed 6mo/5K rule at dealer. I used Pennzoil Conventional 5w30 until last 2 oil changes then switched to Mobil 1 5W30. Behavior of engine the same with both oils including looking super clean for at least 1,000 miles, zero oil consumption, and still looking clean when change was due.
From now on, with M1, plan to go 7,500 miles/9 months ... whichever is first figuring I'll be safe based on oil analysis below. Does anyone disagree ? (no severe service):
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2049804
Sounds perfect!
In my 09V6 Camry (purchased 04/08) currently with 44,000 miles I have always followed 6mo/5K rule at dealer. I used Pennzoil Conventional 5w30 until last 2 oil changes then switched to Mobil 1 5W30. Behavior of engine the same with both oils including looking super clean for at least 1,000 miles, zero oil consumption, and still looking clean when change was due.
From now on, with M1, plan to go 7,500 miles/9 months ... whichever is first figuring I'll be safe based on oil analysis below. Does anyone disagree ? (no severe service):
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2049804
Sounds perfect!
Originally Posted By: fsskier
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: fsskier
2008 Sienna: Used as a tow vehicle (towing 5,000 lb) boat/trailer combo used in watershows on a commercial basis.)
Often long distances on HOT weekends.
Mobil 1 0W20, Toyota Filters (dealer sells them with a coupon 2 for 10 bucks carryout) and 10 K oil changes.
Currently 53,000 miles. Burns no measurable oil during that time. No repairs of any kind on this vehicle since new, except spare tire hold down recall.
How do you know what your doing is ok? Miles are low 53k, can't go by that. used oil analysis?
Well of course a used oil analysis gives precious little if any information on wear, so.......
Previous Tow Vehicle, 1994 3.1 Litre Chevrolet APV towing the same loads ran 300,000 miles on 0W20 and the motor still seemed like brand new..... did not burn, leak or drip oil, looked clean through the filler hole, what more could I want?
I expect that the reduction in wear during the warm up cycle will greatly exceed any possible difference after warmed up.
And I really like the bullet proof cold starting on our annual winter snowskiing trips. Although "everybody" claims their car starts at -40f..... when it is that cold it seems the entire Hotel/motel lot is full of non-starting cars as we drive out. Then, Toyota seems confident, so why should I not be??
So, you have no data, just "seems" ok. Thats fine. Not disputing it, just asking.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: fsskier
2008 Sienna: Used as a tow vehicle (towing 5,000 lb) boat/trailer combo used in watershows on a commercial basis.)
Often long distances on HOT weekends.
Mobil 1 0W20, Toyota Filters (dealer sells them with a coupon 2 for 10 bucks carryout) and 10 K oil changes.
Currently 53,000 miles. Burns no measurable oil during that time. No repairs of any kind on this vehicle since new, except spare tire hold down recall.
How do you know what your doing is ok? Miles are low 53k, can't go by that. used oil analysis?
Well of course a used oil analysis gives precious little if any information on wear, so.......
Previous Tow Vehicle, 1994 3.1 Litre Chevrolet APV towing the same loads ran 300,000 miles on 0W20 and the motor still seemed like brand new..... did not burn, leak or drip oil, looked clean through the filler hole, what more could I want?
I expect that the reduction in wear during the warm up cycle will greatly exceed any possible difference after warmed up.
And I really like the bullet proof cold starting on our annual winter snowskiing trips. Although "everybody" claims their car starts at -40f..... when it is that cold it seems the entire Hotel/motel lot is full of non-starting cars as we drive out. Then, Toyota seems confident, so why should I not be??
So, you have no data, just "seems" ok. Thats fine. Not disputing it, just asking.
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