3.1l v-6 100+k on clock

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JR

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Michigan born but my heart belongs in dixie
i hace aquired a buick regal 4 dr with a 3.1l in it. has alittle over 100k on it.
never owned a 3.1 before.
i was wondering what would be the best oil

i use mc hdeo 15w40 rotella t 10w30 syn-blend hdeo 30wt alot around my garage or would a 5/10w-30 be better
 
I am guessing this is the 3.1 and not the 3100 series. I would use a good 10w30. HDEO if its easy to find and cheap is what I run. I get syn blend HDEO for 2.49 per quart. I would not run a 15w40 unless its really hot out.
 
I'm sprised if it is the 3100 series as I have the 3100 in my Lumina and I've yet to hear that engine ping once. although, it does have a knock sensor. Do knock sensors ever wear out?
 
it has 149k on it, it looks clean no leaks
has been sitting for alittle
starts and runs great
it has alittle lifter tick at start up goes away when warm
i was thinking of putting a cheap filter on it some 15w40 with mmo and take it for a trip in a week or so down state and put half a bottle in it the last few dozen miles and dump it for an ac filter and good oil
 
Hey JR,

My mom has a Malibu with the 3.1 and I've had Havoline Synthetic and Castrol GTX analyzed in it. I personally believe Castrol GTX 5w30 is a great fit for the 3.1. Wear came back very low after 5,000 miles. I'm running Q Horsepower in it right now and I plan on getting that analyzed after 5,000 miles is up.

By the way, the piston slap you'll hear when you start it up is normal according to GM and it doesn't seem to harm things in terms of wear.
 
No reason not to stay with the factory recommended 5W30..... I have put 300k on our 3.1 litre APV, in severe towing service, using 0W20 and it still runs/seems like new.

I would not run 15W40 in anything, unless it was an oil burning clunker. Same with the additives, skip them for the least chance of unbalancing the additives on your chosen motor oil.
 
what about m1 0w-30
some of the newer gm cars say use for severe cold

had a customer but it in his 4.3l with piston slap quieted it right up
do you think it could help with the noise
and would it be better then a 5/10w-30
 
0W30 would be a great choice. Good winter starting and lubrication, good summer protection in extreme heat.
Only downside, I think you have to pay the price for Synthetic, I know of no 0W30 from dinosaur oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: countryboy9799
I have a 3100, how would 0w30 help the piston slap?

Wouldnt 0w30 be to thin for summer temps?

IF.....thats what your hearing is PS(most times it's a lifter tick,the lifters not pumping up right)it may or may not help with the extra cleaning you would see.

and to thin for summer??? it's a 30w at operating temp your just getting the benefits for a faster flowing oil upon start up when it's actually needed more,a good thing.
 
Are you familiar with the 3100? GM put out a TSB stating that it is piston slap due to a short piston. That seems to be mostly what people are saying.

I know I posted on here that the noise is timed to the valves so thats what I thought but some others here said it was piston slap.
 
Not trying to sound repetative daman, but I'll rephrase this for countryboy.

Countryboy, you must understand that the first number is not in any way related to the second.

0w30 at 50f is still going to be thicker(more centistokes) then a 20w50 at 212f.

The "30" part of 0w30 is how thick the oil is at operating temps. All Xw30's(0w30,5w30,10w30) are going to be within a certain viscosity at operating temperature(around 10.0cst).

Not to confuse you more but some 5w30's are actually slightly thicker at operating temp then there 10w30 brethren.
 
Originally Posted By: countryboy9799
Are you familiar with the 3100?

Who me?? lol, i've only owned 5 of them im no strnager to GM not by a long shot,that TSB was manly on the 4.3,5.7,4.8 5.3.

most times it IS lifter tick you wanna guess how many sets of lifters i've replaced? better yet come to the shop and see my collection here?

no problem JT1
 
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