2025 Tundra OEM filters cut open

[RichardZ]

Hi - I recently bought a 2025 Tundra. I decided to cut open the first two filters just because there’s been some previous issues with these motors. First oil change at 1800 miles and the second at 5000 miles.

The factory filter (Made in Japan) had a few silver flakes I could find. Nothing in the second (Thailand) filter.

What do you guys think? Not too bad? I feel good about it..

 

[RichardZ]

My first time cutting a filter open..

 

[loneryder]

My first time cutting a filter open..

Not bad for a new engine!

 

[ZeeOSix]

More metal than I've ever seen on a first oil change on my new vehicles. But if you saw none or just a couple small metal particles on the 2nd OCI filter inspection then you should be good.

 

[panthermike]

I think you're good since the second one didn't have anything. Congrats on the purchase! I have a '24 and the powertrain driveability/power is amazing.

 

[RichardZ]

I think you're good since the second one didn't have anything. Congrats on the purchase! I have a '24 and the powertrain driveability/power is amazing.

Thanks. Yeah she goes pretty good..

 

[fantastic]

Hi - I recently bought a 2025 Tundra. I decided to cut open the first two filters just because there’s been some previous issues with these motors. First oil change at 1800 miles and the second at 5000 miles.

The factory filter (Made in Japan) had a few silver flakes I could find. Nothing in the second (Thailand) filter.

I'd expect some metal in the first filter. If you see less in the second one then things have settled down.

What do you guys think? Not too bad? I feel good about it..

They both look good.

 

[f355spider]

More metal than I've ever seen on a first oil change on my new vehicles. But if you saw none or just a couple small metal particles on the 2nd OCI filter inspection then you should be good.

I think the filters look okay...but I'm no expert.
But I have watched all the youtube videos about the recall and supposed "insider" information about the engine issues related to inadequate cleaning prior to assembly, you would think they would be **** near spotless on current production.

Still hearing about a few engine failures on 2024 and 2025s. But the numbers could be considered "normal"? There is so much scrutiny on Tundras, any engine failure makes news in the forums.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I think the filters look okay...but I'm no expert.
But I have watched all the youtube videos about the recall and supposed "insider" information about the engine issues related to inadequate cleaning prior to assembly, you would think they would be **** near spotless on current production.

The filters themselves do "look good". The most I ever found in a factory filter after a break-in OCI was around 4 or 5 small particles of aluminum. If the OP only found that amount total in the first oil change filter inspection then it's about normal. If many more pleats show what's photoed in post 1, then I'd say that's more debris that normal. But the 2nd oil change was clean, so it should be good and no worries on break in debris. My first comment was based on seeing the photos on a cell phone, so looked worse than when looking at them on a 27" monitor.

 

[MurkyAsparagus]

Looks good! Thanks!

 

[GRjdm]

I did a break-in oil change in my 25' Grand Highlander HX (24A-FTS hybrid) at 800 miles and the factory installed oil filter had few silver flakes similar to what you had found. So, i would say it is fairly normal. Now the car is running Toyota N1 filter + Pennzoil Ultra Platium 0W-20 and I plan to change it out at 5000 miles. There is no way i would perform the 1st oil change at 1 year/10K miles as per factory maintenance schedule.

 

[sw99]

I think it looks good so far. Thanks for posting.

I also have a V35A-FTS and did my first oil change at 580 miles. I had the same 90915-10010 filter from the factory. I didn't see any flakes in the filter on the cut open but there was a slight glitter in the sunlight when viewing the oil. My next oil change will be around 2500 miles, if I can wait that long .

 

[505kind]

Toyota had positively identified a problem with metal in engines and transmissions in Japan and the USA but I’m confident it’s been sorted.

The oem Toyota Denso filters made in Thailand aren’t one of the best ever but they’re very good & especially for the price @rock Auto($5 & $7.50 @ Walmart). They have an emphasis on flow rate.

Congratulations on that Truck. I have a fleet of high mileage, impeccably maintained Toyoya & Lexus vehicles.

 

[ZeeOSix]

They have an emphasis on flow rate.

Not enough to actually matter. A couple less PSI of dP across the filter doesn't really matter to an engine. If an engine is so sensitive to the restriction of the typical oil filter, you'd see blown-up engines all over the place. The oiling system is 12-15 times more flow restrictive than a typical oil filter.

 

[505kind]

Not enough to actually matter. A couple less PSI of dP across the filter doesn't really matter to an engine. If an engine is so sensitive to the restriction of the typical oil filter, you'd see blown-up engines all over the place. The oiling system is 12-15 times more flow restrictive than a typical oil filter.

I know engineers that would debate that with you. As a Pro Tech I don’t disagree.
The Denso is a very good filter for the money but not even close to top tier.
I decarbonize all of my high mileage engines with Auto RX plus(GOAT) and I’ve experimented with MANY filters.
I’m excited to try the Purolator Boss even though it’s obscenely expensive(a bargain though compared to a Ferrari filter).

Not all oem filters come close to very good ime.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I know engineers that would debate that with you. As a Pro Tech I don’t disagree.

A engineer (specifically mechanical) that understands engine oiling systems and filters should know a typical oil filter's "flow resistance" has a minimal affect on the flow to the engine - positive displacement oil pumps are used to ensure flow. Only time it might matter is on a race engine with a high volume oil pump, or in super cold starting conditions. But also keep in mind that the filter bypass valve is there to ensure oil flow to the engine if the dP across the filter element gets too high.

I’m excited to try the Purolator Boss even though it’s obscenely expensive(a bargain though compared to a Ferrari filter).

The Boss isn't very efficient either (99% >46u per Purolator/M+H), if efficiency is something you want. Some very efficient oil filters can also flow very well (ie, lower dP vs flow). The mantra of "flow over efficiency" is pretty much a myth since filters these days can do both very well.

Not all oem filters come close to very good ime.

Yeah, OEM filters are typically 95% @ 30u or worse. But if the oil is changed at relatively short intervals it doesn't matter as much as using a low efficiency filter with long oil changes. Higher efficiency filters are more advantageous for long OCIs.

 

[505kind]

A engineer (specifically mechanical) that understands engine oiling systems and filters should know a typical oil filter's "flow resistance" has a minimal affect on the flow to the engine - positive displacement oil pumps are used to ensure flow. Only time it might matter is on a race engine with a high volume oil pump, or in super cold starting conditions. But also keep in mind that the filter bypass valve is there to ensure oil flow to the engine if the dP gets too high.


The Boss isn't very efficient either, if efficiency is something you want. And very efficient oil filters can also flow very well (ie, lower dP vs flow). The mantra of "flow over efficiency" is pretty much a myth since filters these days can do both very well.


Yeah, OEM filters are typically 95% @ 30u or worse. But if the oil is changed at relatively short intervals it doesn't matter as much as using a low efficiency filter with long oil changes. Higher efficiency filters are more advantageous for long OCIs.

The best filter I’ve found in recent years for low money are the ChampXL. They just fired everyone @champion Laboratories and the First Brand brothers might go to prison so no more ChampXL filters apparently.

The OEM Toyota filter is a lot smaller than I would like on my 2004 Solara. I would like a higher efficiency filter.

I auto rx all my engines as I said with regular Valvoline for clean and rinse then I switch to various group III hydrocracked “synthetic”. I run 5k intervals. I have customers that run Amsoil and Redline @ times.
I’m looking forward to trying the Valvoline restore and protect. It can’t hurt.

I’m not a fan of long OCI and I’d only run a real group 4 &/or 5 if I lived in an extremely cold environment.

I’m also looking forward to running an Amsoil type oil bypass filter on my 04 2JZ-GE IS300