2023 Mazda CX-50 2.5S 36.3k mi; Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 9.8k mi

[OneLonelyBurrito]

Mazda employee here....
The Mazda maintenance minder in the car is just a countdown and does not have any sort of programing or algorithm behind the scenes. You can actually go in and change the interval you want it to show as "next service due" by date or overall mileage. The "distance until next oil change" is fixed at 10K miles and, again, is just a countdown. The owners manual on the non-turbo CX-50 says 12 months / 10K miles for "normal service" and 6 months / 5K miles for "severe service".

From everything I have seen, there are two separate modes for the Mazda maintenance minder. In “automatic” mode it has a PCM input in addition to mileage and time. With that PCM input, my understanding is, it will adjust the maintenance interval as needed. But it also has a “manual” mode if you wanna set it yourself.

I had taken a screenshot of the block diagram for “automatic” mode in a previous thread.

View attachment 259165
Here is the block diagram for Mazda's Oil Life Monitor, so it should be intelligent enough to account for all the variable except dusty conditions with the deterioration determination block. I'm assuming the deterioration determination block has access to all the sensors in the PCM so it can calculate a deterioration factor.

 

[ltslimjim]

I don’t think the OEM recommended oil change interval is extended. If I was going further than the 10k Mazda specifies for the standard drain interval I would lean more towards agreeing with you. But I would not consider following the standard drain interval an extended interval.

Got it, but with what @cammyfive79 stated I do wonder. Your vehicle is newer so one would expect an intelligent OLM system though.

I suppose you can always try VRP if you ever develop further consumption during OCIs.

Regardless, definitely monitor consumption once the leak is resolved. Usually oil consumption is a clear sign the oil has been in service too long; which can happen even if a report is acceptable. I think other's comments are trying to provide more headroom for repeatability by being more cautious or even upping to an oil less likely to cause consumption; an oil designed for extended intervals in other words.

 

[cammyfive79]

Maybe more to the point.......but why? You have a nice new-ish vehicle that has just left the factory bumper to bumper warranty because of mileage (36K).....why in the world would you want to run an OTS oil (albeit a good one) so long that at the end your new car burned a little oil? These vehicles/engines are not known for burning oil in their youth....so why push so hard that you become a one off where your vehicle does? Run it to 7500 if you want to do 2 OCIs a year instead of a 5K interval and doing 3 a year if you drive 15K a year; IMO it's just not worth it.

 

[OneLonelyBurrito]

Maybe more to the point.......but why? You have a nice new-ish vehicle that has just left the factory bumper to bumper warranty because of mileage (36K).....why in the world would you want to run an OTS oil (albeit a good one) so long that at the end your new car burned a little oil? These vehicles/engines are not known for burning oil in their youth....so why push so hard that you become a one off where your vehicle does? Run it to 7500 if you want to do 2 OCIs a year instead of a 5K interval and doing 3 a year if you drive 15K a year; IMO it's just not worth it.

I guess my counter point would be, why not? I’m following the recommended maintenance per Mazda. They would have had to validated their recommended maintenance intervals. And with my current driving situation, the oil appears to have held up fine following the maintenance minder.

Maybe more to the point.......but why? You have a nice new-ish vehicle that has just left the factory bumper to bumper warranty because of mileage (36K).....why in the world would you want to run an OTS oil (albeit a good one) so long that at the end your new car burned a little oil? These vehicles/engines are not known for burning oil in their youth....so why push so hard that you become a one off where your vehicle does? Run it to 7500 if you want to do 2 OCIs a year instead of a 5K interval and doing 3 a year if you drive 15K a year; IMO it's just not worth it.

I guess my counter point would be, why not? I’m following the recommended maintenance per Mazda. They would have had to validated their recommended maintenance intervals. And with my current driving situation, the oil appears to have held up fine following the maintenance minder.

Regardless, definitely monitor consumption once the leak is resolved. Usually oil consumption is a clear sign the oil has been in service too long; which can happen even if a report is acceptable. I think other's comments are trying to provide more headroom for repeatability by being more cautious or even upping to an oil less likely to cause consumption; an oil designed for extended intervals in other words.

I will definitely be monitoring for oil consumption, but would also oil consumption isn’t always a sign the oil has been extended past its useful life. Some oil consumption is to be expected in all engines whether we see it on the dipstick or not is a different discussion.

 

[cammyfive79]

I guess my counter point would be, why not? I’m following the recommended maintenance per Mazda. They would have had to validated their recommended maintenance intervals. And with my current driving situation, the oil appears to have held up fine following the maintenance minder.

I guess my counter point would be, why not? I’m following the recommended maintenance per Mazda. They would have had to validated their recommended maintenance intervals. And with my current driving situation, the oil appears to have held up fine following the maintenance minder.

I will definitely be monitoring for oil consumption, but would also oil consumption isn’t always a sign the oil has been extended past its useful life. Some oil consumption is to be expected in all engines whether we see it on the dipstick or not is a different discussion.

What I'm trying to relay is that on this engine/vehicle, consumption at approximately 36K miles of daily driving is abnormal. If consumption doesn't bother you in the interest of saving some money cutting down on 1 OCI per year....that's your choice.

 

[Tshane3000]

I would take it over to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20 and around 5k with a Fram ultra filter.

Mobil1 is the gold standard in consumer oil and they have a high mileage version as well. What makes you choose Pennzoil platinum over it? Any any test results you can point to? There's a guy on YouTube who tests oil on bearings and more. Mobil1 always wins.

 

[Sam_Julier]

Mobil1 is the gold standard in consumer oil and they have a high mileage version as well. What makes you choose Pennzoil platinum over it? Any any test results you can point to? There's a guy on YouTube who tests oil on bearings and more. Mobil1 always wins.

Please spend time looking at the UOA of both Mobil 1 and PP. Both oils perform well when changed at appropriate intervals and the correct grade is used. Just because some person on YT runs some tests doesn’t mean one oil is better.

 

[facility1]

Mobil1 is the gold standard in consumer oil and they have a high mileage version as well. What makes you choose Pennzoil platinum over it? Any any test results you can point to? There's a guy on YouTube who tests oil on bearings and more. Mobil1 always wins.

Mobil 1 is not the only oil one market, there are other brands too, I see there are a lot of Mobil fan boys here, think outside of the box and try other oils, many can and are even better depending on the application and needs for your vehicle.

 

[Tshane3000]

Please spend time looking at the UOA of both Mobil 1 and PP. Both oils perform well when changed at appropriate intervals and the correct grade is used. Just because some person on YT runs some tests doesn’t mean one oil is better.

What is UOA?? I'd like to see an acronym list for this website, it's really tough to try to figure those out when you don't know oil and oil testing all that well.

 

[Tshane3000]

Please spend time looking at the UOA of both Mobil 1 and PP. Both oils perform well when changed at appropriate intervals and the correct grade is used. Just because some person on YT runs some tests doesn’t mean one oil is better.

I understand now that UOA means used oil analysis. What is VOA?

Where can I find a list of acronyms? There are so many, they are confusing.

 

[facility1]

VOA means virgin oil analysis, or unused oil testing

 

[OneLonelyBurrito]

What makes you choose Pennzoil platinum over it?

It was as simple as Pennzoil Platinum was cheaper than Mobil 1 at the time.

 

[Impatient]

The phosphorus and zinc are kinda weak. Calcium / Magnesium also weak. The viscosity is nothing to brag about. Yes (current) wear is admirably low, but this oil is not the best. How long do you want to keep the vehicle, or in what condition do you want to sell it?

Upgrade to PUP xw30, or better yet, Castrol EP or M1EP. Valvoline may also be an option. If the 5w30 kills your MPG, get best of class xw20. Consider Amsoil XL 5w20 (not 0w20…at least in summer). Better better better, Amsoil SS 5w20, or maybe even the 0w20, or even xw30. I’m sure HPL has equally good alternatives. None of these should be too thick. Your fuel dilution will thin it. By the way, you could also try M1 ESP, now available at reasonable price in 5qt jug ar Walmart (at least hear). 0w30 might be OK, but I think the 5w30 is what is in the jugs. This might be the thickest option I just threw out there, since it is euro. There might be a euro xw20 that would rock, but I’m not familiar with those offerings.

Sorry, I keep trying to suggest things, when I am not qualified. That said, I kinda wish I had a CX5, and this is what I would do if I did.

 

[OneLonelyBurrito]

The phosphorus and zinc are kinda weak. Calcium / Magnesium also weak. The viscosity is nothing to brag about. Yes (current) wear is admirably low, but this oil is not the best. How long do you want to keep the vehicle, or in what condition do you want to sell it?

Upgrade to PUP xw30, or better yet, Castrol EP or M1EP. Valvoline may also be an option. If the 5w30 kills your MPG, get best of class xw20. Consider Amsoil XL 5w20 (not 0w20…at least in summer). Better better better, Amsoil SS 5w20, or maybe even the 0w20, or even xw30. I’m sure HPL has equally good alternatives. None of these should be too thick. Your fuel dilution will thin it. By the way, you could also try M1 ESP, now available at reasonable price in 5qt jug ar Walmart (at least hear). 0w30 might be OK, but I think the 5w30 is what is in the jugs. This might be the thickest option I just threw out there, since it is euro. There might be a euro xw20 that would rock, but I’m not familiar with those offerings.

Sorry, I keep trying to suggest things, when I am not qualified. That said, I kinda wish I had a CX5, and this is what I would do if I did.

I have never been one to criticize an oil's add-pack with a consumer level oil analysis as I think there is more to it than can be capture in it. I have also just looked for well known oil specification like GM's Dexos label and not overthink it from that point. But the oil seems to have held up just fine with my driving and internal. I'm not shooting for the absolute best with this car, its a daily driver that has a larger N/A engine with a fairly large sump volume and it doesn't run particular hot. I have also have had more issues with it than I was hoping, so it may go away sooner than originally planned.

I have though about switching to Castrol EP but I feel no need to change to 5w30 at this point. Fuel dilution is minimal so far with my engine and a viscosity of 7.7 is still well within the normal range for a 20 weight oil.

 

[thetricky]

Keep doing what you are doing op, that oil held up fine judging by the rather boring UOA.