2023 Hyundai Kona N-Line 1.6T 5W-20 PUP 7,969 km OCI (18,229 km Odo)

[AJW001]

Below is my 2nd report (PUP 5W-20). My first one is here (PUP 0W-20):

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...atinum-8157-km-oci-10-260-km-odometer.370862/

As the smartstream is a DI engine, fuel dilution and timing chain wear are issues to monitor. Fuel dilution probably more of an issue during the winter/spring months (ranging from 0C to 12C typically). Regardless winter/summer, I try to avoid short trips, opting to combine tasks into one longer driving session (multiple stopovers, minimum 20 mins total driving time) so that the oil warms fully (rather than many shorter trips and the car cooling down between esp when driving kids to school). I'm not so familiar with how timing chain wear works but I think it's related to insolubles, which I note was higher this time (0.4%) compared to the last UOA (0.2%).

PUP for both OCIs is not Dexos 1 Gen 3 certified, although it probably meets the requirements.

My current OCI is on PP (non PUP) which carries a Dexos 1 Gen 3 certification, and back to 0W-20. Doubt it'd make a difference though.

Considering going to 10,000 km. Thoughts?

 

[Rand]

I'm not sure that PUP ever received API SN+, SP or LSPI updates.. Its called premium but its a black hole of no information on what makes it premium or better than the regular platinum.

Sopus Marketing at their "best"

 

[AJW001]

I'm not sure that PUP ever received API SN+, SP or LSPI updates.. Its called premium but its a black hole of no information on what makes it premium or better than the regular platinum.

Sopus Marketing at their "best"

At least PP has a Dexos 1 Gen 3 certification. So maybe I'll stick with PP and forget about PUP? PP (and PUP) are frequently on sale here in Canadian Tire stores.

 

[Rand]

At least PP has a Dexos 1 Gen 3 certification. So maybe I'll stick with PP and forget about PUP? PP (and PUP) are frequently on sale here in Canadian Tire stores.

"Regular" PP has D1g3, API SP, and the jeep ms-13340 spec (2.0 hurricane engine t-gdi 135hp/liter) I'd say thats more ultra than ultra at this point.

 

[twX]

Insolubles seem a bit high for a short OCI. It's soot that contributes to timing chain wear, and insolubles does include soot.

I prefer PP because it's a bit cheaper and I like the Dexos1 Gen3 certification.

It could be that PUP can't pass the LSPI or timing chain wear tests. Maybe it just can't pass the fuel economy test because it's a bit thicker and has more additives that increase friction, or maybe Pennzoil just didn't want to spend the money on testing. We'll never know. I'll take the one with the fancy sticker.

 

[fantastic]

wear metals trending down from previous results which is what you'd expect on a low mileage car. I'd say 10,000 km is doable. Good run.

 

[Mainia]

This is just my opinion, unless you are all hwy miles, 8,000 on a Hyundai turbo I think is kind of pushing it. And if you have your foot in it even more so. Hyundai/Kia's are hard on oil, "rough service" suggestion from Hyundai themselves is 3,750 miles. If it is a Hyundai turbo , your are rough servicing the oil. I dump mine at 3,000, but I am tuned and thrash the heck out of my car. See signature link below. That motor has a longer stroke then my 1.6T and I have seen some high mileage pistons out of multiple Hyundai/Kia motors and they all had high wear on the piston skirts. The longer stroke will add even more skirt loads. It's up to you, but you own a Hyundai engine, not an engine brand to push long oil change intervals and expect to not get bitten.

 

[hemitom]

This is just my opinion, unless you are all hwy miles, 8,000 on a Hyundai turbo I think is kind of pushing it. And if you have your foot in it even more so. Hyundai/Kia's are hard on oil, "rough service" suggestion from Hyundai themselves is 3,750 miles. If it is a Hyundai turbo , your are rough servicing the oil. I dump mine at 3,000, but I am tuned and thrash the heck out of my car. See signature link below. That motor has a longer stroke then my 1.6T and I have seen some high mileage pistons out of multiple Hyundai/Kia motors and they all had high wear on the piston skirts. The longer stroke will add even more skirt loads. It's up to you, but you own a Hyundai engine, not an engine brand to push long oil change intervals and expect to not get bitten.

He is referring to kilometers 8000 so roughly 5000 miles.
i would not push past 8000 kilometers and in my wife's 1.6 because its short tripped i drop the oil and filter at 5000 kilometers.

 

[AJW001]

This is just my opinion, unless you are all hwy miles, 8,000 on a Hyundai turbo I think is kind of pushing it. And if you have your foot in it even more so. Hyundai/Kia's are hard on oil, "rough service" suggestion from Hyundai themselves is 3,750 miles. If it is a Hyundai turbo , your are rough servicing the oil. I dump mine at 3,000, but I am tuned and thrash the heck out of my car. See signature link below. That motor has a longer stroke then my 1.6T and I have seen some high mileage pistons out of multiple Hyundai/Kia motors and they all had high wear on the piston skirts. The longer stroke will add even more skirt loads. It's up to you, but you own a Hyundai engine, not an engine brand to push long oil change intervals and expect to not get bitten.

Thx. I know you've been very active on the Hyundai Kona forum so your experience matters.

Not openly advocating for extended OCIs on the 1.6T smart stream; I'm likely to stay with 8,000 km now that I'm back to 0W-20 (last was 5W-20) and a "lower tier oil" in PP (compared to PUP allegedly) and do another UOA. But "hard on oil" is still scant with specifics. If this were the case, then wouldn't it show up on some sort of metric such as those in the "properties" section of the oil report (esp shear)? With my use patterns, all of my "properties" metrics are very acceptable. Wear metals are trending down. Maybe I can keep a close eye on insolubles.

I get that Hyundai specs 8,000 km based on their testing. I also get that the engine is a Hyundai (and not a Honda, gosh I miss my 2002 K20-02 Type-S).

I think you've done UOAs on your modded Kona. Did one or few of the metrics triggered the need for more frequent OCIs?

 

[Mainia]

Thx. I know you've been very active on the Hyundai Kona forum so your experience matters.

Not openly advocating for extended OCIs on the 1.6T smart stream; I'm likely to stay with 8,000 km now that I'm back to 0W-20 (last was 5W-20) and a "lower tier oil" in PP (compared to PUP allegedly) and do another UOA. But "hard on oil" is still scant with specifics. If this were the case, then wouldn't it show up on some sort of metric such as those in the "properties" section of the oil report (esp shear)? With my use patterns, all of my "properties" metrics are very acceptable. Wear metals are trending down. Maybe I can keep a close eye on insolubles.

I get that Hyundai specs 8,000 km based on their testing. I also get that the engine is a Hyundai (and not a Honda, gosh I miss my 2002 K20-02 Type-S).

I think you've done UOAs on your modded Kona. Did one or few of the metrics triggered the need for more frequent OCIs?

First off it's a Hyundai, it needs all the help it can get. I run a very clean motor, and want to keep my cam chain in nice shape down the road, and long oil change intervals are hard on the tiny chain. I am a short tripper, I warm my car up half way spring summer, winter and fall before driving it. A 90 degree summer day, and if my car is cold I will idle it for 2-3 mins to expand the pistons, before I drive off. The 1.6T has a short piston skirt and I want to keep the rock down on cold pistons. Kind of extreme, but that is how I roll when it's a Hyundai. I use to run Redline Performance Euro 5w-30 but their price gouging from $12 to $17 a Qt was over my limit. I now run Motul 5w-40 8100-Clean Gen 2 in the spring summer and fall, and in Minnesota winters Motul 5w-30 8100-Clean EFE since it has a little lower pour point. I shot for C3 Mid-SAP oils in this car. I will run the Redline once a year to get the Ester in there to clean the ring lands. I still have 5 more QTs when the i bought their oil at $14 a QT. Or just run the Motul and HPL motor cleaner as it has the Ester too to clean.

 

[odie]

This is at the AMAZON and WALMART sites . It applies for all weights of the P.U.P.. At " THE MOROR OIL GEEK " site on YOUTUBE he compares P.P. and P.U.P 5w-30 with V.O.A.s' .

 

[AJW001]

....

Were you going to say something?

 

[odie]

Were you going to say something?

Yes , the above . Forgot to get back . Thanks for the post . Have used both PLATINUM and the ULTRA in the '18 Accent with 1.6 Ltr. w/ G.D.I.. Using the P.P. 5w-20 for the winter months .

 

[odie]

The ULTRA should be fine .

Old , but still applies .



The P.U. is within range of the ZINC and PHOSPHORUS along with the CALCIUM . So , all should be good for L.S.P.I. and catalytic converter . The S.N. Plus below should be similar to S.P..

V.O.A.s , the P.U. is to the far right .

May want to E-mail PENNZOIL technical and get verification that the ULTRA is GM Dexos1 , Generation 3 and can be used in a D.I. engine for warranty .

Looks like NAPA has ULTRA on sale . 5 quart jug at $34.99 and quarts at $7.69 .

 

[odie]

Low sodium or none in oil is also important for D.I.. engines . Ran out of time to post above .

 

[AJW001]

What is the deal with sodium?

 

[odie]

What is the deal with sodium?

Deposit buildup . Less the better for D.I..

 

[SHOZ]

My 2L turbo Genesis Coupe on 5w30 or 0w40 M1 5k mile OCI still had timing chain wear at 100k miles. Fuel dilution was always mentioned when I had it tested. Did two track days on 5w30 within one OCI and the 5k mile oil test said still good to use but fuel dilution. Hyundai did upgrade the chain though after a couple of year as the original was from a stock 2.4L engine.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

AJW001
Why are you running 'inferior' 5w20 in that 23' Kona 1.6 turbo?
One of the best oils out there today is your brand name. There are tons of rave reviews on the superior 0w20 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.

0w20s are built better than 5w20s and if I were you, I'd run 0w30 in that turbo 1.6.
Let me add 0w30s are overall built better than 5w30s. If the HyunKia manufacturer have suddenly dropped their 0w30 recommendations of 2021 and 2022, it's mainly because of buyers complaining that 0w30 of their choice was hard to find on store shelves.

It is not because 5w30 suddenly became a better built oil than 0w30. And very-very few here at BITOG will say 5w20s are built better than 0w20s. Make the switch and your engine will thank you someday.

 

[odie]

The ULTRA should help with timing chain wear . Less soot .