2021 WRX STi - Switched from OEM oil to Motul X-clean EFE 5w30 - 19,685 miles

Interesting. Does the Motul have a lot of sulfur?

It’s my daily. My commute to work is 10-15 minutes. I warm it up for about a minute in the morning before I start driving but I wait for it to fully warm up before getting on it. I don’t beat on it but I might drive spiritedly here and there.
I'm not informed enough to answer that question. The only one that could answer that with good confidence would be Motul. I have no idea on what constitutes "a lot of sulfur". All I know is that it is an oil product that interferes with copper/lead & can cause spikes in UOA.
 
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I’d go back to your Subaru 5w-30 and forget about it. Wear was good and the viscosity drop didn’t hurt a thing. What’s a quart used every OCI?
 
I’d go back to your Subaru 5w-30 and forget about it. Wear was good and the viscosity drop didn’t hurt a thing. What’s a quart used every OCI?
This is my second car ever (drove a Honda for 15 years) so I’m not used to the oil consumption. I know it’s normal but it still gives me anxiety. But believe me, a part if me wants to go back. The numbers were all good except for viscosity. Everyone always says the OEM oil is terrible too. Maybe I’ll go back to it and just do 1.5k-2k OCIs. I still want to try a 5w40 eventually, though. Ideally, I’d like a 5w30 with good numbers and a high HTHS.
 
This is my second car ever (drove a Honda for 15 years) so I’m not used to the oil consumption. I know it’s normal but it still gives me anxiety. But believe me, a part if me wants to go back. The numbers were all good except for viscosity. Everyone always says the OEM oil is terrible too. Maybe I’ll go back to it and just do 1.5k-2k OCIs. I still want to try a 5w40 eventually, though. Ideally, I’d like a 5w30 with good numbers and a high HTHS.
The Subaru OEM oil is not terrible. It performs similarly to any other ILSAC GF6 oil in an STI.
 
ZDDP looks very low. I would definitely ditch the Motul and go with an American made oil. PP, Amsoil, Valvoline or HPL.
I bet this next sample will prove much better on Amsoil
 
ZDDP looks very low. I would definitely ditch the Motul and go with an American made oil. PP, Amsoil, Valvoline or HPL.
I bet this next sample will prove much better on Amsoil
And yet it has Mercedes-Benz 229.52 and BMW Longlife-04 approval. How can it be?

Oh wait I know - those are European approvals and requirements. You prefer a questionable $30 spectrographic analysis and your ability to predict future performance over those approvals.
 
ZDDP looks very low. I would definitely ditch the Motul and go with an American made oil. PP, Amsoil, Valvoline or HPL.
I bet this next sample will prove much better on Amsoil
Yes. it would be below API SN+/SP min for phos. I have not followed ACEA.
But it is a UOA not VOA and it was blackstoned.
Also, again, the OP is overchanging the oil. Agree that they may be a better fit for this car.
 
Yes. it would be below API SN+/SP min for phos. I have not followed ACEA.
But it is a UOA not VOA and it was blackstoned.
Also, again, the OP is overchanging the oil. Agree that they may be a better fit for this car.
Are there any API SN+ 5w30 oils with a decent HTHS?
 
I’d like to stick with a 5w30 for warranty purposes.
When was your vehicle first placed in service? You’re likely already out of B-2-B unless you bought it new and it was left on the lot…

Here’s what your manual has.
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Note that the diagram for oil viscosity shows that 5w30 and 5w40 (and all 0w30 or 40 by default) are completely interchangeable at all engine temps. I’ll tell you from experience, and many others on here likely will as well, that using an “API SN Resource Conserving” or an “API SN+ Resource Conserving” oil is a good way on a hard-driven turbo vehicle to have turbo, timing chain, or timing chain guide issues not long after your warranty expires and the dealer says you’re on your own…

You’ve had some experienced folks give you some good advice. I’ll just say that the dealer will be more than happy to take your ~$7k for a new engine without one flinch of their conscience even if all you had ever used was Subaru-branded oil.

Considering you’ve got an EJ25, I’d personally be running a quality ACEA A3/B4 0w40 or 5w40, and sample it at 4k miles. That’s a 20+ year old engine design that’s known to need higher viscosity under duress.

Page 12-5 in the manual shows the oil recommendations:
https://cdn.subarunet.com/stis/doc/ownerManual/MSA5M2105A_STIS-Opt.pdf
 
When was your vehicle first placed in service? You’re likely already out of B-2-B unless you bought it new and it was left on the lot…

Here’s what your manual has.
View attachment 227625
Note that the diagram for oil viscosity shows that 5w30 and 5w40 (and all 0w30 or 40 by default) are completely interchangeable at all engine temps. I’ll tell you from experience, and many others on here likely will as well, that using an “API SN Resource Conserving” or an “API SN+ Resource Conserving” oil is a good way on a hard-driven turbo vehicle to have turbo, timing chain, or timing chain guide issues not long after your warranty expires and the dealer says you’re on your own…

You’ve had some experienced folks give you some good advice. I’ll just say that the dealer will be more than happy to take your ~$7k for a new engine without one flinch of their conscience even if all you had ever used was Subaru-branded oil.

Considering you’ve got an EJ25, I’d personally be running a quality ACEA A3/B4 0w40 or 5w40, and sample it at 4k miles. That’s a 20+ year old engine design that’s known to need higher viscosity under duress.

Page 12-5 in the manual shows the oil recommendations:
https://cdn.subarunet.com/stis/doc/ownerManual/MSA5M2105A_STIS-Opt.pdf
I bought it new in October of 2021 so I still have about 3 months on the bumper to bumper and a little over 2 years on the powertrain warranty. Yes, I’ve seen that part of the manual. It also says 5w40 can be used for replenishment but should be changed back to 5w30 at the next oil change. Either way, I will be switching to a 5w40 in a few more OCIs. Any recommendations on a good 5w40?
 
This is my second car ever (drove a Honda for 15 years) so I’m not used to the oil consumption. I know it’s normal but it still gives me anxiety. But believe me, a part if me wants to go back. The numbers were all good except for viscosity. Everyone always says the OEM oil is terrible too. Maybe I’ll go back to it and just do 1.5k-2k OCIs. I still want to try a 5w40 eventually, though. Ideally, I’d like a 5w30 with good numbers and a high HTHS.
If you want a high hths and #s go with PP Euro L 5w30. May help with your consumption as it did when my kid ran it in his C30.
 
I bought it new in October of 2021 so I still have about 3 months on the bumper to bumper and a little over 2 years on the powertrain warranty. Yes, I’ve seen that part of the manual. It also says 5w40 can be used for replenishment but should be changed back to 5w30 at the next oil change. Either way, I will be switching to a 5w40 in a few more OCIs. Any recommendations on a good 5w40?
QSFS Euro 5w40, probably best bang for buck at wallymarts
 
If you want a high hths and #s go with PP Euro L 5w30. May help with your consumption as it did when my kid ran it in his C30.
Do you know what the difference between the Euro and Euro L are? They both come in 5w30 and have an HTHS of 3.5. The Euro L also has an SN certification while the Euro doesn't even though Pennzoil says it meets the engine requirements.
 
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Do you know what the difference between the Euro and Euro L are? They both come in 5w30 and have an HTHS of 3.5. The Euro L also has an SN certification while the Euro doesn't even though Pennzoil says it meets the engine requirements.
Euro L is a lower-SAPS oil. Unless you have a wear problem and there is significant blowby then either one is fine.
 
I'm not informed enough to answer that question. The only one that could answer that with good confidence would be Motul. I have no idea on what constitutes "a lot of sulfur". All I know is that it is an oil product that interferes with copper/lead & can cause spikes in UOA.
It seems that the Xclean EFE is a mid SAPS oils so a full SAPS would have even more sulfur, right? Maybe going with a low SAPS 5w40 would cause less copper reactions.
 
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