2021 Chevy/GMC/Cadi engines burning oil solution

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I researched the issue and I am guessing it could not hurt to change the Vapor Canister Purge Valve. If the valve sticks open oil consumption is likely.

This is a do it yourself type change and the part costs me $40 including shipping. I suggest not using Amazon because of counterfeit part potential. Go to an official dealer of AC Delco parts like Rockauto or a dealership.

Disclaimer...its only an educated guess. I cant guarantee a result. If the engine has over 50k miles it would be a good idea to replace it in my personal opinion.

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The other part Im replacing is the PCV valve 12691880.

The thing is no one has any answers as to why the engine keeps consuming more and more oil...and Im wondering whats at the end in the distant future. Is it me trying to find someone to replace the engine? So I can give Kilmers assertion a try and report back in a few thousand miles.

Right now Im at home pouring 0W20 into a big red cup from a 5 quart jug to fill up the engine.
 
The thing is no one has any answers as to why the engine keeps consuming more and more oil...and Im wondering whats at the end in the distant future.
If the oil isn't leaking out it is being burned in some way.

Rings could be stuck or the cylinder walls could be scored. Remove the spark plugs and inspect the cylinder walls with a cheap boroscope for any damage.

And if you're going to start replacing random parts, I would be more inclined to try a miracle oil than a part that Scotty Kilmer recommends. I know you prefer to use this site as your sounding board than to take any of our advice, but maybe try some Valvoline Restore and Protect?
 
If the oil isn't leaking out it is being burned in some way.

Rings could be stuck or the cylinder walls could be scored. Remove the spark plugs and inspect the cylinder walls with a cheap boroscope for any damage.

And if you're going to start replacing random parts, I would be more inclined to try a miracle oil than a part that Scotty Kilmer recommends. I know you prefer to use this site as your sounding board than to take any of our advice, but maybe try some Valvoline Restore and Protect?
Restore & Protect sounds like a good idea! OP needs to provide more details. Oil change intervals and driving habits. Exactly how much oil per X amount of miles is being burned?
 
I did get a message on another forum saying they replaced the purge valve at 118000 miles for an emissions inspection/DTC code.

If the PCV valve and purge valve were $1000 I would be hesitant but both parts are well within my price range to simply replace it without much thought.

As for the oil burning dealer says its normal and many others having this issue. In the past on other cars the dealer told me many things were normal until one day they came out with a bulletin saying it wasnt. Ive never seen in my lifetime being down a quart or two in 2000 miles on a gas engine being "normal".
 
I did get a message on another forum saying they replaced the purge valve at 118000 miles for an emissions inspection/DTC code.

If the PCV valve and purge valve were $1000 I would be hesitant but both parts are well within my price range to simply replace it without much thought.

As for the oil burning dealer says its normal and many others having this issue. In the past on other cars the dealer told me many things were normal until one day they came out with a bulletin saying it wasnt. Ive never seen in my lifetime being down a quart or two in 2000 miles on a gas engine being "normal".
How often was the oil changed? Oil life monitor or mileage based? What oil weight/ brand used? Driving habbits?
 
If the oil isn't leaking out it is being burned in some way.

Rings could be stuck or the cylinder walls could be scored. Remove the spark plugs and inspect the cylinder walls with a cheap boroscope for any damage.

And if you're going to start replacing random parts, I would be more inclined to try a miracle oil than a part that Scotty Kilmer recommends. I know you prefer to use this site as your sounding board than to take any of our advice, but maybe try some Valvoline Restore and Protect?
This post is a masterpiece. (y)
 
If the part in question is $28 and it only lasts 100,000 miles before getting a DTC code why not change it? This has become a desperate situation for those who make a living with these trucks.
 
Have you started using 5w30 yet like mentioned in other threads???

Like I posted in those threads, the railroad I retired from has many hundreds of these trucks in their fleet. Every single one was switched to 5w30 because of oil consumption.

At this point you should probably run Valvoline R&P 5w30 to clean up your oil control rings. 4 full oci’s minimum or just run it indefinitely.
 
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Im sorry if I have not immediately updated this thread because I simply do not have the time and this is not my priority. This GM vehicle is not my personal vehicle, but just one vehicle in our business fleet. Our last GM vehicle was a 2016 Chevrolet Suburban which was a lemon and we stopped buying them after that vehicle. So we wanted to try one of the newer GM SUVs and purchased one for the experiment. Thankfully we only purchased one because there has been many other issues besides oil burning. We purchase all Ford/Lincoln. These Ford/Lincoln vehicles have their issues, but not like this GM SUV.

Here are a few things I want to address:

* Scotty Kilmer- I do not follow this Youtube page but when I did my Google searches he seemed to appear at the top so I viewed his video. However, there was a vast amount of posts on this forum and other forums about this issue of oil burning GM 5.3 V8 engines.

* PCV Valve and system- Scotty is not the only source of information about the PCV system causing issues but there are past posts on this website and many others. On the Fords we always change the PCV valve when changing the spark plugs because its cheap and simple. When doing the plug change access is open up to the valve and its a good time to get it done.

* Valvoline Restore and Protect- I have zero experience with this new offering by Valvoline and so I cannot really say anything about it. What I can say is the oil being burnt is not simply evaporating like water, but probably leaving behind some residue inside the engine. I am guessing it does make sense to use a product which would get at that residue. Over here we do have an engine flush that we are very happy with and used on the Fords with great success. I do not at all believe any oil product will cure the issues with this GM engine.

* 5W30- It does make sense to use a thicker oil when you know the engine is burning oil. However, this will not cure the problems with this engine. It will mitigate the issue but not be a total solution. I do not own and operate a railroad, but a much smaller business and problems hit us a bit harder than a railroad thus we are more sensitive to these issues. Basically, this engine has some serious design faults and thicker oil or a different formulated oil wont cure it.

* Past posts on here and other websites about the 5.3- I received some messages about past versions of this 5.3 liter engine burning oil so this issue is not entirely new. I just read a post dated year 2011 and it talks about the burning oil issue to include someone suggesting 5W30 and looking at the PCV valve. I also found posts on this website dating 2017 talking about it. All of this is good advice but it doesnt seem to have changed anything in regards to this engine.

* OCI- I know this website enjoys talking about long OCIs. The OCI we do is 3000 mile intervals as dictated by our mechanics. There is considerable engine idle time and there is an issue about documenting the engine idle hours+miles. So we just change it out at 3000 and we use bulk oil from sources like Valvoline Global Store. What we do over here is not subject to debate because our mechanics dictate this oil change interval and not anyone on a website forum. If you want to come over to my business and debate the OCI with the mechanics you sure can, but its not going to be a subject of debate in this forum.

Conclusion...I am leaning to this being our last GM SUV. It does not appear anything has changed since our last 2016 Chevrolet Suburban. A lot of different issues popping up with this vehicle. We will change out the PCV Surge valve and I will report back with the results which will take time, but I think nothing is going to change whether the PCV system is perfect or if 5W30 is used or if we switched to Valvoline Restore and Protect. My thinking is the engine has serious design flaws to which no oil product can address. If someone is looking for a light truck for their business I might suggest one with the Ford Ecoboost 2.7 liter or the non-Ecoboost versions of the engine. As for GM I dont see where its path has changed in regards to long term engine or transmission reliability.
 
i service a ton of these engines that call for 0w-20. they go straight to 5w-30 from first oil change. Valvoline R&P is the real deal. run with confidence.
Yep, that was my point as well. All these fleet managers figured out quickly that 0w20 was the problem. Switching to 5w30 early on was key. At this point R&P will be needed clean up those ring deposits to get back to square one.
 
This is not the only issue with these 2021+ GM SUVs. There is also the transmission valve body that mysteriously goes out without warning...it happened to one person I know at 30,000 miles and another at 80,000 miles throwing the vehicle into limp mode. Another issue is the lifter issue which causes damage to the camshaft and the next step is engine replacement....and the guys I know had that issue around 80000 miles. There are electronic modules like the telematics module that seem to stop working and the fuel system which clogs up a lot easier than other vehicles I have worked with in the past. Both wheel bearings on the vehicle I speak of went out around 38000 miles. In regards to the lifter/engine issue it will be at least 30 days to get an engine and no one around here will rebuild the old one. I have known a lot of people who tried different things to avoid the lifter issue with different ideas and fixes but they wound up on the engine waiting list.

There are some positives to this vehicle such as its better at handling cargo versus the Fords. Its cheaper than the Fords, but the issues I listed above are simply too much for many to handle. A lot of people I know are looking to Ford. Ford has some issues as well but they are manageable compared to the GM issues.

As for Dodge back in 2021 there were a LOT of Dodge Chargers on the road as well as the Dodge/RAM trucks. Virtually all of them have disappeared as of 2025. The local police departments have tried the Dodge Durango but went quickly back to the Ford Explorer. I dont know whats going on there...dont know anyone who runs the Dodge or RAM trucks.
 
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