2020 Tacoma oil

"The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions."

Such an instruction in the manual might indicate that a heavier viscosity oil won't screw up the VVT, clog those "tiny" oil passages, and that the engine wasn't "designed" for using only a thinner oil.


It all depends on what they mean by higher speeds? . They run faster RPMs accelerating in town than they do at 60 on the interstate.
 
"The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions."

Such an instruction in the manual might indicate that a heavier viscosity oil won't screw up the VVT, clog those "tiny" oil passages, and that the engine wasn't "designed" for using only a thinner oil.
No oil is going to "clog those tiny oil passages" ... that's what routine maintenance and an oil filter is for to prevent. If oil is clean, it's clean ... regardless of how thick or thin it is. Toyota wouldn't even put a statement in the OM like that if they thought thicker oil would cause any problems. Then there are all the manuals for vehicles in other countries that use the same engine that show a whole range of thicker viscosity oil that can be used - that's been discussed many times in this forum.
 
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I am reaching the end of my trucks included toyotacare services. I was changing the oil myself at 5,000 miles just because I do some short trips and some towing especially towing a camper in the summers. So I have done my own oil change between the 10,000 mile interval they do them at and was using the recommended 0w20 in the 3.5L v6.
I noticed a few things the oil is pretty darn thin. much thinner than the 5w40 my Liberty CRD took. I see the owner's manual says 5w20 is ok if 0w20 is not available. they however state that they want you to change it after 5,000 miles back to 0w20. As I have been looking at what the stores now have on the self 5w20 seems to be more often in stock than 0w20. At my local wally world every time I have went down the oil isle it's pretty sparse. I have no problem using SuperTech as it seems to meet the specs from Toyota and it will be changed regularly.
Is there any issue or any harm that could come if I switch over permanently to 5w20 or even 5w30? I would still keep with a full synthetic oil and quality filter, most likely an OEM filter. Is this 0w20 stuff just for EPA fuel conservation and will it even make a lick of difference? I'm in Pennsylvania and we do see all kinds of temperatures all year but nothing below 0F too often.
Just Use the ole regular Mobil 1 5w30 or Valvoline 5w30
 
I am reaching the end of my trucks included toyotacare services. I was changing the oil myself at 5,000 miles just because I do some short trips and some towing especially towing a camper in the summers. So I have done my own oil change between the 10,000 mile interval they do them at and was using the recommended 0w20 in the 3.5L v6.
I noticed a few things the oil is pretty darn thin. much thinner than the 5w40 my Liberty CRD took. I see the owner's manual says 5w20 is ok if 0w20 is not available. they however state that they want you to change it after 5,000 miles back to 0w20. As I have been looking at what the stores now have on the self 5w20 seems to be more often in stock than 0w20. At my local wally world every time I have went down the oil isle it's pretty sparse. I have no problem using SuperTech as it seems to meet the specs from Toyota and it will be changed regularly.
Is there any issue or any harm that could come if I switch over permanently to 5w20 or even 5w30? I would still keep with a full synthetic oil and quality filter, most likely an OEM filter. Is this 0w20 stuff just for EPA fuel conservation and will it even make a lick of difference? I'm in Pennsylvania and we do see all kinds of temperatures all year but nothing below 0F too often.
I run Mostly 5w30 in mine for 7-10k intervals. Sometimes I run 0w40 that’s what I am running currently. Makes no difference in performance Or mileage while a 5 mph or greater headwind will destroy the mileage at highway speeds.
 
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OP, you can use anything between 0w20 and 5w30 that is suitable for your ambient/seasonal temperatures. I would not recommend going any heavier than 10w30 at the very most. And folks, please, let's not start an argument about 5w30 vs 10w30. Please.
I believe the OPs 2.7 has dual VVTi and I think dual injection (port and direct), and a slightly higher compression ratio, otherwise my 2.7 is mostly the same. I've always used 5w30 and it runs perfect at 178,000 miles. I might bump up to 10w30 or 5w40 when it eventually gets worn, but until then, she is doing great on 5w30.
 
The general thought running through this website is that the lower viscosity oils are for the manufacturer to meet fuel economy requirements while providing adequate engine lubrication. (Sometimes the thinner viscosities are needed for operation in very cold climates, but that scenario is relatively rare among people posting on this site.) The same vehicle/engine sold in other markets -- e.g. South America, Europe -- will often specify 0w20, 5w20 or 5w30. There is no risk to your engine running 5w20 or 5w30 assuming that these viscosities are suitable for your climate (most likely, they are suitable).
It is not a thought it, is CAFE credits.
 
I am reaching the end of my trucks included toyotacare services. I was changing the oil myself at 5,000 miles just because I do some short trips and some towing especially towing a camper in the summers. So I have done my own oil change between the 10,000 mile interval they do them at and was using the recommended 0w20 in the 3.5L v6.
I noticed a few things the oil is pretty darn thin. much thinner than the 5w40 my Liberty CRD took. I see the owner's manual says 5w20 is ok if 0w20 is not available. they however state that they want you to change it after 5,000 miles back to 0w20. As I have been looking at what the stores now have on the self 5w20 seems to be more often in stock than 0w20. At my local wally world every time I have went down the oil isle it's pretty sparse. I have no problem using SuperTech as it seems to meet the specs from Toyota and it will be changed regularly.
Is there any issue or any harm that could come if I switch over permanently to 5w20 or even 5w30? I would still keep with a full synthetic oil and quality filter, most likely an OEM filter. Is this 0w20 stuff just for EPA fuel conservation and will it even make a lick of difference? I'm in Pennsylvania and we do see all kinds of temperatures all year but nothing below 0F too often.
Should always be easier to find a better selection of 5w20 than 0w20 on most store shelves I would think. It is a thin oil but well proven. I believe Toyota & Ford Motor were the 1st to spec this grade when it became widely available.. across most there lineup of vehicles. I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w20 in our '19 Escape SEL AWD w/ Gen2 1.5L GTDI. Most always use OEM Motorcraft filters as well w/great success. I'm in Western Ohio so I think our seasonal temps are mostly the same. We hardly If ever get to 0deg as well & if we do its not long an pretty unusual. We had a 2.5mo winter this past yr 1 of local weather stations stated followed by a long Spring! I'm surprised your vehicles manual states 0w20 as preferred viscosity if i read what you said correctly. Ford too states 10k mis max or intelligent oil life monitor recommendation etc. I change @6mis (max) myself as our daily drivers see lots of short trips & both are GTDI motor design. My truck is '20 Ranger XLT FX4 crew cab w/ Gen2- 2.3L TGDI. A smooth , efficient & quite powerful powertrain. The truck calls for 5w30 tho I should state. Haven't used an 0w30 in winter as it just doesn't get cold for long & any full synthetic oil flows quite fast. Plus, truck has 6.3qt sump! Have done a few shorter OCIs after heavy towing a few times. Pull an 04 Mustang SVT Cobra (4900 orig mis) on occasion. That car is a garage queen. 😀
 
When one says that a heavier oil is fine based on international manuals for the same motor, is their any way to determine if the mfg changed any build specs?
 
When one says that a heavier oil is fine based on international manuals for the same motor, is their any way to determine if the mfg changed any build specs?
It doesn’t make any difference. An oil of a higher grade isn’t going to damage an engine but one of a lower grade than stated can cause damage.

If thicker oil caused damage then all engines would be damaged on startup or nearly all that operate in cold conditions and don’t fully warm up.
 
I am so happy with my Ford 2 liter running 10W30 v. the 5W20 that I had been requested in the O.M.

Now 1700 miles out, NO fuel mileage hit or performance hit has been noted.

Just smoother, quieter, more refined powertrain operation - something I look for in a lubricant.

I have noticed in the past that some engines don't appreciate stepping up a grade - but not in this particular instance. The '17 Subaru Crosstrek 2L didn't respond well to thicker oil. Nor did my Yaris over a decade ago.

My 2011 Honda Fit seemed happy enough with its 0W20 (until I stupidly added some Liquimoly MoS2)

It doesn't hurt that this particular 10w30 is a new, stellar performing FS lubricant from Quaker State.
 
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