2020 Lexus RX350 AWD - Transmission Drain Plug Rounded

[iCurious]

Thank you for the confirmation.

Gripedge 17mm hex is your best bet.

 

[iCurious]

Now with a new drain plug, would this happen again if I use a 17mm hex socket? I was using a 17mm hex socket from gearwrench.

 

[The Critic]

Now with a new drain plug, would this happen again if I use a 17mm hex socket? I was using a 17mm hex socket from gearwrench.

Not if it was fully bottomed out. You have to apply pressure to the socket when breaking the plug loose.

 

[daniel327]

Now with a new drain plug, would this happen again if I use a 17mm hex socket? I was using a 17mm hex socket from gearwrench.

Only if the new plug is over tightened. When you install the new plug either use a torque wrench or, if you use a regular ratchet, just grip it up near the head rather than using the full leverage that holding near the end of the handle would provide.

 

[michaelluscher]

See if this technique combined with hammering/bottoming out the best quality hex socket you can buy will make a difference

I'd have a replacement on hand before you proceed

 

[D60]

Now with a new drain plug, would this happen again if I use a 17mm hex socket? I was using a 17mm hex socket from gearwrench.

This is where an impact is better again. I believe you said you were using a breaker bar or cheater.

With an impact you can push on the rear of the tool and keep the bit fully bottomed and it won't want to "cock" like the off-axis force of a breaker bar does.

Still, you need to use quality tools for best fit and good metallurgy, and quick blips of the trigger -- at least initially. The plug will either "snap" free, or it won't.

I just went through this on several Subaru drain plugs both female hex and Torx, and the impact is just more efficient and less drama.

Indeed it's great to not over tighten them YOURSELF, but some of the plugs --on Subarus at least -- are legendary from the factory. TR580 front diff fill in particular (the TR690 gets filled through the breather which is infinitely easier)

 

[Nukeman7]

This is where an impact is better again. I believe you said you were using a breaker bar or cheater.

With an impact you can push on the rear of the tool and keep the bit fully bottomed and it won't want to "cock" like the off-axis force of a breaker bar does.

The impact wrench or a hammer on a breaker bar provides the instantaneous "shock" energy to attain the breaking torque needed to loosen the stuck plug. Constant leverage on a breaker bar does not have the same jarring effect on the plug.

I just went through this on several Subaru drain plugs both female hex and Torx, and the impact is just more efficient and less drama.

Indeed it's great to not over tighten them YOURSELF, but some of the plugs --on Subarus at least -- are legendary from the factory. TR580 front diff fill in particular (the TR690 gets filled through the breather which is infinitely easier)

Over-tightening the transmission drain plugs (and the fill plug to a lesser extent) at the factory seems to be the norm for most Asian brands. I've encountered significant difficulty removing them for the initial drain and fills on Hondas, Toyotas, Subarus, Nissans and Hyundais. I used to have a video where I lifted an Accord off the jackstand trying to remove the drain plug with a 5 ft. cheater pipe on a 1/2" drive breaker bar! No difficulty in removing any of them during subsequent fluid services.

 

[iCurious]

See if this technique combined with hammering/bottoming out the best quality hex socket you can buy will make a difference

I'd have a replacement on hand before you proceed

I did this method already. It didn't budge. I think I will need to start using a torque wrench from now on. Using a long ratchet is hard to gauge the torque.

 

[The Critic]

I did this method already. It didn't budge. I think I will need to start using a torque wrench from now on. Using a long ratchet is hard to gauge the torque.

Achieving proper torque should be obvious — this plug seals using a rubber o-ring.

 

[iCurious]

This is where an impact is better again. I believe you said you were using a breaker bar or cheater.

With an impact you can push on the rear of the tool and keep the bit fully bottomed and it won't want to "cock" like the off-axis force of a breaker bar does.

Still, you need to use quality tools for best fit and good metallurgy, and quick blips of the trigger -- at least initially. The plug will either "snap" free, or it won't.

I just went through this on several Subaru drain plugs both female hex and Torx, and the impact is just more efficient and less drama.

Indeed it's great to not over tighten them YOURSELF, but some of the plugs --on Subarus at least -- are legendary from the factory. TR580 front diff fill in particular (the TR690 gets filled through the breather which is infinitely easier)

I've been advise to not use impact. But your statement is very intuitive. Thank you.

 

[iCurious]

The impact wrench or a hammer on a breaker bar provides the instantaneous "shock" energy to attain the breaking torque needed to loosen the stuck plug. Constant leverage on a breaker bar does not have the same jarring effect on the plug.

Over-tightening the transmission drain plugs (and the fill plug to a lesser extent) at the factory seems to be the norm for most Asian brands. I've encountered significant difficulty removing them for the initial drain and fills on Hondas, Toyotas, Subarus, Nissans and Hyundais. I used to have a video where I lifted an Accord off the jackstand trying to remove the drain plug with a 5 ft. cheater pipe on a 1/2" drive breaker bar! No difficulty in removing any of them during subsequent fluid services.

Unfortunately, for me it's vice versa. The initial I was able to pop it off with a 1/2" ratchet. The subsequent.. failure.