2018 Kia SUV with (apparently) seized V6

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Winnipeg MB CA
I've been loathe to join in on any of the Hyundai/Kia-bashing threads because my personal experience has been positive. We bought a 2009 Kia Sedona van in 2016, and passed on to our oldest son and his family four years ago. It's seen hard use (hauling lots of heavy stuff), and has been good. I have generally found it really good to work on, with a transmission drain plug, canister oil filter up top, and no shields to remove to drain oil or coolant.

However, my wife and I were walking home from the Y about an hour ago and noticed a lady standing by her Kia SUV (a Sorrento perhaps? Whatever the Kia equivalent of a Santa Fe is anyway) with the hood up. We stopped to see if we could help, and she said the engine had just suddenly died. She said the vehicle had used a lot of oil from new, and that Kia had not been able to find the problem and so had given her a lifetime engine warranty. She said she carries a jug (probably 4 to 5 l) of oil and has to add frequently. The oil was about half a litre below the ADD mark on the dipstick.

Anyway, I came back with a multimeter and a booster pack in case the battery had died, but the battery was at 12.4 V. The starter tried to turn the engine over, but would just go "clunk" like it was hitting a brick wall. I figured the engine was seized.

She had a tow truck on the way, and hopefully Kia will honour the lifetime warranty.

This engine was a V6 (3.3 I would guess). I'd thought the problems were limited to the 4-bangers, but perhaps there are problems with the sixes as well (or perhaps this was a rare bad one).
 
I’ve been saying it for years, the 3.3 GDI V6 is very problematic just like the 4 cylinders.

It’s not as “widespread” because V6 engines aren’t as widely used in Hyundai/Kia vehicles.

Also they don’t shoot the rod through the block causing a fire, so they don’t get media attention.

They tend to fail right around 100k miles.
 
Translation I was walking by this poor lady who broke down. She was drving a KIA with the 3.3. Something is wrong with the motor-but it looks like in the end she will be OK because she has a warranty on the motor.

Meanwhile-we have absolutely no idea on the history of the vehicle-NONE.

She sounds like she needs an advocate (husband, Grand Kid, etc.) to make the dealer do the right thing.

What a silly thread this one is.

(Currently have 60,000 miles on my wife's 3.3 Santa Fe with zero issues. BOUGHT NEW).
 
I gave you a like for trying to help the lady.
I don't like her unfortunate situation.
Aunt's (2010?) Santa Fe drinks a qt of oil every 3k miles. Hope she doesn't end up like this lady.
 
I gave you a like for trying to help the lady.
I don't like her unfortunate situation.
Aunt's (2010?) Santa Fe drinks a qt of oil every 3k miles. Hope she doesn't end up like this lady.
Of course every major manufacturer would consider this amount normal and do nothing for you.....

Cleansump-try this call your local service department at Ford, GM, Jeep, etc., Dealerships and say you have a late model (insert vehicle here) "drinking" a quart of oil every 3,000 miles and get back to us as to what they tell you.
 
Of course every major manufacturer would consider this amount normal and do nothing for you.....

Cleansump-try this call your local service department at Ford, GM, Jeep, etc., Dealerships and say you have a late model (insert vehicle here) "drinking" a quart of oil every 3,000 miles and get back to us as to what they tell you.
I know that's acceptable. It's what's wrong with their engines that is in question. Where does is start? Does it get worse slowly and lock or does it stay the same and lock? Or maybe it will never lock.
Thanks for the condescension.
 
I know that's acceptable. It's what's wrong with their engines that is in question. Where does is start? Does it get worse slowly and lock or does it stay the same and lock? Or maybe it will never lock.
Thanks for the condescension.
Some give warnings some don't. The lady in the OP's first post is got her her warning/evidenced by carrying around oil with her...she needs an advocate to help her.

I don't know why the dealer is dragging their feet on a motor replacement-every (Hyundai/KIA) dealer is aware-and knows how the program works.
 
We have no idea the maintenance on the vehicle so the result means nothing.
She said she'd had it serviced regularly, but not at the dealer. ("Regularly" can mean every two years on the dot, but not necessarily frequently, so there's no guarantee it was serviced often enough.) I should have asked her the mileage on the vehicle, and how often the oil got changed.
I passed a broken down Jeep on the side of the road once.
And had it been a Jeep I would have been glad to stop to help. I was a one-minute walk from home. Easy enough to help if it had been something simple.
I once saw a greasy spot in the pavement where a car caught fire. All that was left was some debris, including the hood ornament. Think it was some kind of Oldsmobile.
No way, that was a Ford fer sure, eh! ;)
 
She said she'd had it serviced regularly, but not at the dealer. ("Regularly" can mean every two years on the dot, but not necessarily frequently, so there's no guarantee it was serviced often enough.) I should have asked her the mileage on the vehicle, and how often the oil got changed.
My mother would also be happy to tell anyone she takes good care of her car because she brings it to the car wash every other week. But the only person stopping that car from dying is me. Careful who's word you take.
 
(Currently have 60,000 miles on my wife's 3.3 Santa Fe with zero issues. BOUGHT NEW).
We have a 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe with 3.3L and I maintained it from day one, and it does have some issues. For example it likes to burn/drink Red Line 5W-30 for some reason, close to a quart in 6800 miles. I usually go 5000 miles between oil changes, however I wanted to go a couple of thousand more with Red Line. This time around I added 6.5 quarts, so it was a bit above the full mark. One thousand miles later and it's at the full mark. Do I blame the oil or the engine? I'm currently debating if I should go with HPL, Mobil 1 EP 5W-30, or Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. I'm not in the mood to experiment, I just want this thing to last. If there is an oil consumption issue then I don't want to waste the HPL, it's good quality expensive oil.

The transmission is undersized for this engine and the OEM fluid is absolute garbage. At 42K miles it was black as night and smelled like desperation and future problems. It developed at harsh 1-2 first shift. Replaced fluid completely with AMSOIL ATL, then with Red Line D6 (complete 3x changes each, ~5K miles between ATF changes), and now I added 20oz of Lubegard Red which seemed to make the problem go away. If it was a varnish issue, then I have to say that neither AMSOIL nor Red Line are formulated to clean anything and probably aren't any better than Valvoline MaxLife. I will either replace the fluid with Mobil 1 LV ATF HP (Dexron HP) or HPL ATF Green CC. The HPL is clearly the better choice, but if I need to fix the transmission by replacing the valve body, again, I'd hate to waste money and high quality ATF.

So, how was your experience so far? Does it consume any oil? How's your transmission?
 
We have a 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe with 3.3L and I maintained it from day one, and it does have some issues. For example it likes to burn/drink Red Line 5W-30 for some reason, close to a quart in 6800 miles. I usually go 5000 miles between oil changes, however I wanted to go a couple of thousand more with Red Line. This time around I added 6.5 quarts, so it was a bit above the full mark. One thousand miles later and it's at the full mark. Do I blame the oil or the engine? I'm currently debating if I should go with HPL, Mobil 1 EP 5W-30, or Mobil 1 FS 0W-40. I'm not in the mood to experiment, I just want this thing to last. If there is an oil consumption issue then I don't want to waste the HPL, it's good quality expensive oil.

The transmission is undersized for this engine and the OEM fluid is absolute garbage. At 42K miles it was black as night and smelled like desperation and future problems. It developed at harsh 1-2 first shift. Replaced fluid completely with AMSOIL ATL, then with Red Line D6 (complete 3x changes each, ~5K miles between ATF changes), and now I added 20oz of Lubegard Red which seemed to make the problem go away. If it was a varnish issue, then I have to say that neither AMSOIL nor Red Line are formulated to clean anything and probably aren't any better than Valvoline MaxLife. I will either replace the fluid with Mobil 1 LV ATF HP (Dexron HP) or HPL ATF Green CC. The HPL is clearly the better choice, but if I need to fix the transmission by replacing the valve body, again, I'd hate to waste money and high quality ATF.

So, how was your experience so far? Does it consume any oil? How's your transmission?
I bought mine new. The motor uses no oil between the OCI of 5,000 to 7,5000 miles. The transmission fluid is known to turn black-but no one has sent a sample in to be analyzed-to see if turning colors affect performance. As you know-color doesn't necessarily mean bad performance. I had Maxlife transmission fluid installed at 45,000 miles-and a software update on the transmission and I did have the harsh 1-2 shift and now it is completely gone. There have not been wide spread reports of transmission failures. Hyundai dealers recommend a transmission fluid change at 50,000 miles-which for once the dealers are correct on this interval. It's been a great vehicle. I just installed Powerstop front rotors and brake pads-due to warped rotors @60,000 miles. The pads easily had another 10,000 miles to go. The first quarter of next year I will be looking at tires again. Currently running the RT43's and they will need replacement. The AWD works very well on going up our street which has an incline and front wheel drive cars have had some issues.
I won't keep it past 100,000 miles-which is standard for us as far as buying cars.

issues.
 
The lady was carrying a jug of oil with her and was fully aware of the oil burning issue. That’s a pretty good indication to me the vehicle was maintained.

At the very least let’s hope Hyundai does honor the warranty, they have not exactly been very forthcoming with that.
 
I bought mine new.
Same here, we got it brand new with four miles on the odometer in May, 2016.

The motor uses no oil between the OCI of 5,000 to 7,5000 miles.
I used to run Mobil 1 EP 5W-30, had one dealer oil change with their bulk garbage done at 30K miles because they changed policies and refused to take my oil, and then I used Castrol EDGE 0W-40 and QS Euro 5W-40. It never used a drop of oil before I switched to Red Line 5W-30. I'm guessing that it's the oil, not the engine.

I might just got to Mobil 1 EP 10W-30 and see how that works out.

What oil are you using consistently?

I had Maxlife transmission fluid installed at 45,000 miles-and a software update on the transmission and I did have the harsh 1-2 shift and now it is completely gone. There have not been wide spread reports of transmission failures. Hyundai dealers recommend a transmission fluid change at 50,000 miles-which for once the dealers are correct on this interval.
Maxlife seems to be a good choice. It's just as good, if not better, as AMSOIL ATL or RedLine D6. Transmission fluid is hard to improve upon beyond the additive package that comes from the additive manufacturer because the blender risks compromising the frictional characteristics. All the blender can do is use a higher quality base oil or a mixture of higher quality base oils (PAO, mPAO, ANs, high quality Group III/GTL and ANs - eg. Mobil).

Can you please tell me which software update fixed the issue? I've been with my dealer back and forth on this and they keep claiming that there isn't a software update available. Somehow I doubt them. Therefore I resorted to trying Lubegard Red because I don't have time to keep arguing with them.

The transmission fluid is known to turn black-but no one has sent a sample in to be analyzed-to see if turning colors affect performance. As you know-color doesn't necessarily mean bad performance.
The color is not an idiciation, no. The burnt/worn out smell is. I also had a 2018 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport with the anemic 2.4L. Changed the transmission fluid at 45K miles and it was much brighter and had no burnt smell to it. And I drove the Sport much harder and had to put my foot in it because of the gutless engine.

I just installed Powerstop front rotors and brake pads-due to warped rotors @60,000 miles. The pads easily had another 10,000 miles to go.
I changed the brake pads at 38K miles and the rotors are impeccable. Kind of a bummer because I got a nice set of PowerStop rotors ready to go with some Akebono brake pads, and new parking brake shoes. I think I'll swap everything next year. The vehicle is currently at 55K miles.

Will also change the brake fluid to Motul DOT 5.1 fluid. It's about time to change the brake fluid, lol. Everyone seems to forget about that one, including me.
 
Same here, we got it brand new with four miles on the odometer in May, 2016.


I used to run Mobil 1 EP 5W-30, had one dealer oil change with their bulk garbage done at 30K miles because they changed policies and refused to take my oil, and then I used Castrol EDGE 0W-40 and QS Euro 5W-40. It never used a drop of oil before I switched to Red Line 5W-30. I'm guessing that it's the oil, not the engine.

I might just got to Mobil 1 EP 10W-30 and see how that works out.

What oil are you using consistently?


Maxlife seems to be a good choice. It's just as good, if not better, as AMSOIL ATL or RedLine D6. Transmission fluid is hard to improve upon beyond the additive package that comes from the additive manufacturer because the blender risks compromising the frictional characteristics. All the blender can do is use a higher quality base oil or a mixture of higher quality base oils (PAO, mPAO, ANs, high quality Group III/GTL and ANs - eg. Mobil).

Can you please tell me which software update fixed the issue? I've been with my dealer back and forth on this and they keep claiming that there isn't a software update available. Somehow I doubt them. Therefore I resorted to trying Lubegard Red because I don't have time to keep arguing with them.


The color is not an idiciation, no. The burnt/worn out smell is. I also had a 2018 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport with the anemic 2.4L. Changed the transmission fluid at 45K miles and it was much brighter and had no burnt smell to it. And I drove the Sport much harder and had to put my foot in it because of the gutless engine.


I changed the brake pads at 38K miles and the rotors are impeccable. Kind of a bummer because I got a nice set of PowerStop rotors ready to go with some Akebono brake pads, and new parking brake shoes. I think I'll swap everything next year. The vehicle is currently at 55K miles.

Will also change the brake fluid to Motul DOT 5.1 fluid. It's about time to change the brake fluid, lol. Everyone seems to forget about that one, including me.

GROUP CAMPAIGN NUMBER 16-01-032 Technical Service Bulletin SUBJECT: DATE AUGUST 2016 MODEL(S) SANTA FE (NC) TCU UPDATE – SHIFT HESITATION AND SHOCK IMPROVEMENT (SERVICE CAMPAIGN TJJ)  IMPORTANT *** Dealer Stock and Retail Vehicles *** Dealers must perform this Service Campaign on all affected vehicles prior to customer retail delivery and whenever an affected vehicle is in the shop for any maintenance or repair. When a vehicle arrives at the Service Department, access Hyundai Motor America's "Warranty Vehicle Information" screen via WEBDCS to identif y o pen Cam Description: pai gns. This bulletin provides information related to the TCU software update for certain 2017 Santa Fe vehicles that may experience a transmission hesitation or shift shock when accelerating at slow speeds. Applicable Vehicles: Certain 2017 Santa Fe (NC) with 3.3L engine

I use the regular Full Valvoline Synthetic oil. 5W/30
 
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