2018 f150, amsoil into 10r80 trans and rear differential, 29000 miles

[SubieRubyRoo]

And you'll need to do the relearn procedure if you do that.

The Adaptive Learning Drive Cycle must be performed after any of the following procedures are performed:

• Transmission rebuild or replaced
• TCM replaced or reprogrammed
• Major engine work performed
• Air/fuel management adaptive values reset

Perform the adaptive learning drive cycle on a level road surface as follows:

1. Record, and then clear any DTC’s
2. Drive the vehicle until the engine and transmission reach normal operating temperature.
3. Accelerate from a stop with light throttle (15%), ensuring that upshifts 1st through 8th occur at engine speeds between 1300-1600 rpm.
4. Continue to accelerate (may apply slightly more throttle after 7-8 upshift at 32-38 mph (51-61 km/h) until you achieve 55 mph (88 km/h) and the 8-9 and 9-10 shifts complete.
5. Brake very gently to a complete stop and hold the foot brake for five (5) seconds.
6. Shift the transmission to Neutral. Wait 1 second.
7. Shift the transmission to Reverse. Wait 2 seconds.
8. Shift the transmission to Neutral. Wait 1 second.
9. Shift the transmission to Drive. Wait 2 seconds.
10. Repeat Steps 3 through 9 six (6) additional times.

After the final step, place the vehicle in park and cycle the ignition key off. Wait 3-5 minutes before driving.

Hey Bob, where did you find this list? Just wondering, because I just read the TSB for the phaser replacement, and the last line of the procedure is to clear the shift logic... and then this is the instruction Ford gives. I like your list, but was this something from Ford or from the Web?

NOTE: Advise the customer this vehicle is equipped with an adaptive transmission shift strategywhich allows the vehicle's computer to learn the transmission's unique parameters and improveshift quality. When the adaptive strategy is reset, the computer will begin a relearning process.This relearning process may result in firmer than normal upshifts and downshifts for several days.

 

[ctechbob]

Hey Bob, where did you find this list? Just wondering, because I just read the TSB for the phaser replacement, and the last line of the procedure is to clear the shift logic... and then this is the instruction Ford gives. I like your list, but was this something from Ford or from the Web?

It was from gears magazine as I recall. They're a publication for trans rebuilders.

I think I've seen the information in my ranger service manual as well, but that's at home and I'm chillen at the lake.

 

[meep]

based on the new information about the TSB, I decided to go ahead and do a second preventative drain/fill. Got 7.5 qts out, put 7.5 back. Used a mix of valvoline ULV, amsoil, and 2-3 oz of LG red, at about the ratio in there previously from past attempts (mostly the ULV) - not changing anything, just refreshing. Was driving great, just did this after learning more about the failure modes for the 10r80. Mine certainly earlier exhibited valve body problems, the worst it’s known to have, which LG red resolved wonderfully. Being that the other failure is internal bushing wear, I’m feeling pretty good about the slightly thicker mix that’s been in there for quite a while, as it drives great now. Reset the adaptives before driving, and it’s currently relearning its ABCs.

the fluid came out reasonably dark but still red in tint, not bad, though admittedly I was expecting it to be a little brighter since this was done 30k ago. most transmissions I’ve known have either been Honda or Aisin, and they seem easier on fluid, at least by color.

 

[CKN]

Mine has the stumbles both hot and cold, yes. So the amsoil smooths it out some but it’s still there. It still seems to be improving, slowly, so for now I’m going to leave it as is. Frankly I’m not yet sold on it. The overall shift grabs quicker but completes just a hair slower, if I’m being totally @nal retentive, which makes sense as a slightly thicker fluid. Overall the effect is that it doesnt slap into gear at the end of the shift, which is a nice improvement. If I could do it again, I would have swapped 2 quarts, maybe 3, for the additive package and slight boost in viscosity and tried that ratio. I might actually swap 1-2 quarts of Mercon ULV back in just to back the viscosity down a touch. But, first, I’m going to just drive it.

there is a pdf on the web where one really enterprising dealer worked on one of these 3 times and eventually swapped out the valve body, fixing it. I can’t see mine doing that for free under what‘s left of the warranty, and don’t really want them to. So it makes me wonder if there’s a flaw in how the valve body wears in. Being that mine does seem to be improving a touch, slowly, I’ll give it some time.

that, and idk if it was the transmission or the rear axle, but doing both has resulted in a quieter ride and holding a higher gear better going up hills. the axle definitely needed it, based on jet black fluid.

as far as a full change to amsoil, as much as I’m a fan of their fluids, this one is too thick for a full dose of it. I assumed before putting it in that it truly was an accurate replacement, but after seeing the viscosity difference have been a little disappointed in them, for the first time. I would not recommend a full change to it, at least not yet. Maybe they’ll come out with a ULV version.

m

As suggested-do a relearn-can't hurt.

 

[D60]

So I'll be servicing this 10R80 with 60k miles. Owner was excited about the prospect of Lubegard as he says he feels the shifting has begun to "lag." I didn't inquire further as he's not a gearhead -- I simply took it to mean he's noticed a negative change with miles.

Anyway, since I'll have the pan off and then refill, I could add the full 10oz bottle, which wouldn't be out of line with Lubegard's rule of thumb for dosing.

Thoughts? Should I dump in the entire bottle?

edit: I plan to just use Motorcraft ULV as I don't want to experiment too much with a vehicle that's not mine

 

[thastinger]

It really is a shame they didn't put a drain bolt in the torque converter in these 10 speed transmissions. I have a 4R100 tranny and it has a drain bolt so I can drain the converter, I can get everything but about 1 QT of the old fluid out.

 

[meep]

So I'll be servicing this 10R80 with 60k miles. Owner was excited about the prospect of Lubegard as he says he feels the shifting has begun to "lag." I didn't inquire further as he's not a gearhead -- I simply took it to mean he's noticed a negative change with miles.

Anyway, since I'll have the pan off and then refill, I could add the full 10oz bottle, which wouldn't be out of line with Lubegard's rule of thumb for dosing.

Thoughts? Should I dump in the entire bottle?

edit: I plan to just use Motorcraft ULV as I don't want to experiment too much with a vehicle that's not mine

the “lag” is a good description. The engine reduces power during the shift. And it seems to know when the shift is complete. So if the shift is delayed, the engine doesn’t return to power until the transmission figures it out. 3rd gear is a double-whammy - in engages the TC to full lock in 3rd, and then upshifts soon after to either 4th or 5th. The release from third is where “near traumatic” behavior can occur.

I’d use at least half the bottle of LG and take it for a drive. As D60 said, reset the adaptives and go through the relearn process, which is something like 6 full moderate acceleration cycles through the gears, starting cold. As I have learned, the adaptive reset is critical. Otoh, the full bottle probably won’t hurt. I’m a “less is more” kinda guy, even with something as reputable as LG.

NOTE, the adaptives mean a lot. Mine used to act very sequentially … then I reset the adaptives and it skipped a lot of gears (mainly used odd numbers). After the last fluids change and reset, it’s back to using all of them regularly or flexibly - I’m seeing 2nd and 4th used a lot. And 3-5 which it misses half the time, lags a touch and then bangs into gear. Sigh. I may reset the adaptives again. Part of me thinks I should have just left mine alone this time, but with what we are learning about these units, mine was running well and I thought I’d figured out a good system, and just did a D/F refresh of fluids and a reset just to be thorough. I may reset it again and see how that goes, and then if poorly add more LG.

Would love to hear your results.

 

[CKN]

So I'll be servicing this 10R80 with 60k miles. Owner was excited about the prospect of Lubegard as he says he feels the shifting has begun to "lag." I didn't inquire further as he's not a gearhead -- I simply took it to mean he's noticed a negative change with miles.

Anyway, since I'll have the pan off and then refill, I could add the full 10oz bottle, which wouldn't be out of line with Lubegard's rule of thumb for dosing.

Thoughts? Should I dump in the entire bottle?

edit: I plan to just use Motorcraft ULV as I don't want to experiment too much with a vehicle that's not mine

It has at least two design defects from the factory. Lube guard is a band aid on a major wound.

 

[CKN]

the “lag” is a good description. The engine reduces power during the shift. And it seems to know when the shift is complete. So if the shift is delayed, the engine doesn’t return to power until the transmission figures it out. 3rd gear is a double-whammy - in engages the TC to full lock in 3rd, and then upshifts soon after to either 4th or 5th. The release from third is where “near traumatic” behavior can occur.

I’d use at least half the bottle of LG and take it for a drive. As D60 said, reset the adaptives and go through the relearn process, which is something like 6 full moderate acceleration cycles through the gears, starting cold. As I have learned, the adaptive reset is critical. Otoh, the full bottle probably won’t hurt. I’m a “less is more” kinda guy, even with something as reputable as LG.

NOTE, the adaptives mean a lot. Mine used to act very sequentially … then I reset the adaptives and it skipped a lot of gears (mainly used odd numbers). After the last fluids change and reset, it’s back to using all of them regularly or flexibly - I’m seeing 2nd and 4th used a lot. And 3-5 which it misses half the time, lags a touch and then bangs into gear. Sigh. I may reset the adaptives again. Part of me thinks I should have just left mine alone this time, but with what we are learning about these units, mine was running well and I thought I’d figured out a good system, and just did a D/F refresh of fluids and a reset just to be thorough. I may reset it again and see how that goes, and then if poorly add more LG.

Would love to hear your results.

It is designed to skip gears.....to repeat my above comment. There are two design defects from the factory. No amount of screwing around will ultimately fix it.

 

[meep]

It is designed to skip gears.....to repeat my above comment. There are two design defects from the factory. No amount of screwing around will ultimately fix it.

Ah, and I heard you last time. And when it does it right, it does it quite well. My observation is, after the splash/fill and adaptives reset, it isn’t skipping gears. It is driving now like it did when new, hitting most of them most of the time. It didn’t skip gears much with me until I did the adaptives reset, suggested before, about maybe a year ago?

 

[CKN]

Ah, and I heard you last time. And when it does it right, it does it quite well. My observation is, after the splash/fill and adaptives reset, it isn’t skipping gears. It is driving now like it did when new, hitting most of them most of the time. It didn’t skip gears much with me until I did the adaptives reset, suggested before, about maybe a year ago?

Those who have had the reset done-most say it reverts back to it's "old ways" in a matter of time. I'm not knocking it-I own one-and consequently have done a ton of research. If you say it's not skipping gears-then it's still not right because IT'S PROGRAMMED TO SKIP GEARS.
The only way it does not skip gears is to drive it in "Sport Mode".
Anyway-good luck. Hopefully-by some miracle you will get the transmission past 100,000 miles.

 

[Yolo]

So for a guy with a 22 refresh Silverado 1500 with the ten speed - aside from a transmission service at 40k by the dealer, is their anything I can do about the downshifting? Sometimes when I’m above 40 and apply the brakes to come to a stop the truck will downshift and lurch forward when I’m almost stopped. Other than that sporadic issue the thing shifts like butter.

 

[meep]

Those who have had the reset done-most say it reverts back to it's "old ways" in a matter of time. I'm not knocking it-I own one-and consequently have done a ton of research. If you say it's not skipping gears-then it's still not right because IT'S PROGRAMMED TO SKIP GEARS.
The only way it does not skip gears is to drive it in "Sport Mode".
Anyway-good luck. Hopefully-by some miracle you will get the transmission past 100,000 miles.

AHHH. ok that makes sense. Agree with you this is pretty nutty. In hindsight I probably should not have done the second d/f but after seeing the posts recently which showed bushing wear, figured keeping fresh fluid in it would be better.

Weather/mood permitting, I’m going to try a couple of minor things tomorrow. Perhaps another reset and relearn, or maybe a splash more of LG.

And agree. 100k is the goal. Had LG not remedied it at 20k, we probably wouldn’t have the vehicle now. I’m not particularly inclined to want anything different, either.

 

[CKN]

So for a guy with a 22 refresh Silverado 1500 with the ten speed - aside from a transmission service at 40k by the dealer, is their anything I can do about the downshifting? Sometimes when I’m above 40 and apply the brakes to come to a stop the truck will downshift and lurch forward when I’m almost stopped. Other than that sporadic issue the thing shifts like butter.

The ten speed was codeveloped by GM and Ford. It is widely agreed upon that GM did a much better job and refining the transmission and software than Ford did. While there are some reports of the 10 speed in the Silverado acting up-it's not anywhere close to the Ford complaints.

 

[4WD]

So for a guy with a 22 refresh Silverado 1500 with the ten speed - aside from a transmission service at 40k by the dealer, is their anything I can do about the downshifting? Sometimes when I’m above 40 and apply the brakes to come to a stop the truck will downshift and lurch forward when I’m almost stopped. Other than that sporadic issue the thing shifts like butter.

That’s interesting - my Jeep 8S does that but GM 10S does not …
The 10S is the smoothest I’ve ever owned …
Did just add LG red to the 6S - it helped …

 

[D60]

Soo....must you wipe it with Forscan before the relearn procedure? Also, it's a bit lengthy -- are any flat rate shops doing this??

I've bragged about being lucky enough to have straight, quiet roads where I can bed in brakes, but this takes it to a whole 'nother level. They want you to gently accelerate to 55mph, what, seven times? With stops in between where you can safely sit for several seconds and play with the shifter? It almost feels like the engineers are having a good laugh.

Am I the only one who finds this borderline impractical ‐‐ if not for me, at least for the bulk of the service industry???

 

[meep]

@D60. Just my personal experience. If the transmission gets confused, a relearn can help get it out of that state. Everything else is probably down to what changes it can adjust to with, or without confusion. And, I am only going from personal experience, some help from this forum, and limited only to Ford’s way of doing things. IMO, Chevy has better programming behind theirs, but I’ve no experience living with one.

 

[D60]

Just a small PSA: RA does have the OEM seal for the filter neck, but you have to punch the part # into their search. It doesn't appear in the catalog by application, at least for a '19 Ranger.

I paid $3.13 around the time of posting
7T4Z7Z302A

Yes, I know dealers may stock it but EVERY TIME I try to purchase parts from my dealer I wind up regretting it (plus they're a 40 min drive one way). I can no longer get mad at my dealer -- I can only get mad at myself as I know better.

I was actually proud of myself here because I didn't even try the dealer. Maybe I'm actually learning!!

 

[D60]

Also do NOT be an idiot like me ‐- and this is a low bar for the rest of the world.

Put the seal in first then push the filter into the seal. I tried to install filter and seal together and was not pleased with how it seated.

Note gap at arrow apparently scribbled by toddler:

Taking it back apart and doing it correctly allowed it to seat perfectly

 

[D60]

I went looking for a 180 elbow to fine tune fluid level on the 10R80. I see Makuloco has made his own with copper pipe, but by the time I found fresh blades for my pipe cutter and dug out my surely-dried flux, we'd be into 2025.

I did the bulk of the fill from the top with vinyl tubing, same way I've filled AB60Fs, but vinyl tubing next to the hot exhaust was not an option once the Ranger was running.

I have a bucket pump with 180, but the diameter was relatively huge for gear oil.

I was considering ordering something, but I figured there HAD to be a cheap-to-free solution.

I finally remembered many steering boxes hook a 180 on their hard lines, and found something suitable on an '86 Ranger out back (HOAs across the nation collectively gasp and clutch their pearls --- did you hear it??).

This wound up working pretty darn well on my hand pump.