2017 Chrysler Pacifica oil change

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I just bought a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica, 3.6L. Has anyone done an oil change on one of these? Some forums were talking about an oil filter canister being under the hood, and you change the filter from the top, but I cant for the life of me see something like that at the top of the engine. I haven't had the time to crawl under it an look around yet. Browsing the Wal-Mart oil section, it appears that they carry about 4 different types of canister filter for this car. SuperTech ($2.xx), Mopar ($7.XX, Made in USA), and two Fram filters (Made in China). I'll probably go with the Made in USA Mopar, unless the SuperTech is also made in USA and similar quality. 0W20 is a big nope from me for my climate. It will get 5W20 Castrol Magnatech synthetic (or even 5W30 summer) most likely since its only $17.xx per 5 quarts. 5 or 6 quarts in this engine?
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
I just bought a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica, 3.6L. Has anyone done an oil change on one of these? Some forums were talking about an oil filter canister being under the hood, and you change the filter from the top, but I cant for the life of me see something like that at the top of the engine. I haven't had the time to crawl under it an look around yet. Browsing the Wal-Mart oil section, it appears that they carry about 4 different types of canister filter for this car. SuperTech ($2.xx), Mopar ($7.XX, Made in USA), and two Fram filters (Made in China). I'll probably go with the Made in USA Mopar, unless the SuperTech is also made in USA and similar quality. 0W20 is a big nope from me for my climate. It will get 5W20 Castrol Magnatech synthetic (or even 5W30 summer) most likely since its only $17.xx per 5 quarts. 5 or 6 quarts in this engine?
They take 6quarts and I’d go with the ST oil filter
 
6 qts and I'd get a Mopar filter if it's the cartridge type, the Mopar one is only $7 from the dealer for me, so it's a good deal. Oil filter should be in a black housing at the top of the engine. In the engine cover there should be a circle lid that unscrews to show it, or just pop the whole engine cover off, that's what I do on my Cherokee, way easier.
 
Originally Posted By: car51
They take 6 quarts and I’d go with the ST oil filter
My two Pentas hold 6qts but my understanding is newer models only hold 5.
 
It's a standard cartridge oil change, nothing fancy I however would advise you to be careful torquing down the filter, as it screws into the oil cooler I think reefing on the filter cap is what leads to them leaking early IIRC the filter cap is a 24mm, and the drain plug a 13mm
 
Just because you don't live in a cold climate doesn't mean that 0w20 is a definite nope. The overall makeup of 0w oils is more often than not of higher quality than the 5w oils and there's no downside to using it. A 20 weight is 20 weight at operating temp, whether in 90 degrees or 20 degrees. I run 0w20 in Norther Ohio and I'll still run it when I move South later this year.
 
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I did the first oil change on one of those at Walmart. I remember because I was thinking you got to be kidding me, who brings there car into Walmart for the first oil change? It had like 4 or 5k miles on it.
 
I have two Pentastars, a 2014 and a 2016. A couple thoughts from my experience changing the oil in them. 1) Make darn sure you get the oil filter for the 2014+ 3.6L. The oil filter for the 2013 and back is much different and if used in the 2014+, will block to flow of oil and you'll get 0 or very low oil pressure. I know this from experience, luckily I shut the engine back off and figured out the problem. 2) Do NOT over tighten the oil filter housing. The O-ring does all of the sealing, not the housing contacting the base. I had to replace the oil cooler in my Durango, because someone torqued the housing down good and tight, which torques the oil cooler and cracks it. Tighten the housing down until is just contacts the base and you are done. Cheers!
 
Stick with OEM filters. There's been issues with the aftermarket filters, and the Mopar filters aren't that expensive. Our quick-lane doesn't even use our house FVP filters on these, we order in from the WorldPac. It's the only way to go.
 
Originally Posted By: wwillson
I have two Pentastars, a 2014 and a 2016. A couple thoughts from my experience changing the oil in them. 1) Make darn sure you get the oil filter for the 2014+ 3.6L. The oil filter for the 2013 and back is much different and if used in the 2014+, will block to flow of oil and you'll get 0 or very low oil pressure. I know this from experience, luckily I shut the engine back off and figured out the problem. 2) Do NOT over tighten the oil filter housing. The O-ring does all of the sealing, not the housing contacting the base. I had to replace the oil cooler in my Durango, because someone torqued the housing down good and tight, which torques the oil cooler and cracks it. Tighten the housing down until is just contacts the base and you are done. Cheers!
x2, one thing I did to avoid over tightening is before I did my first oil change I just took some white out and made a line over the two halves of the oil filter housing, so now all I do to tighten it is line up the marks and it's good to go.
 
Quote:
0W20 is a big nope from me for my climate.
Why do you believe this to be so? There is no reasoning for this whatsoever. If it calls for 0W20 (that pesky owner's manual again) then use it.
 
Originally Posted By: HoosierJeeper
Originally Posted By: wwillson
I have two Pentastars, a 2014 and a 2016. A couple thoughts from my experience changing the oil in them. 1) Make darn sure you get the oil filter for the 2014+ 3.6L. The oil filter for the 2013 and back is much different and if used in the 2014+, will block to flow of oil and you'll get 0 or very low oil pressure. I know this from experience, luckily I shut the engine back off and figured out the problem. 2) Do NOT over tighten the oil filter housing. The O-ring does all of the sealing, not the housing contacting the base. I had to replace the oil cooler in my Durango, because someone torqued the housing down good and tight, which torques the oil cooler and cracks it. Tighten the housing down until is just contacts the base and you are done. Cheers!
x2, one thing I did to avoid over tightening is before I did my first oil change I just took some white out and made a line over the two halves of the oil filter housing, so now all I do to tighten it is line up the marks and it's good to go.
x3 The filter cap takes a 15/16" 6-point socket (fits better than a 24mm). I would recommend a Mopar MO-349 filter from either Walmart or your local dealer. The Pacifica takes five (5) quarts of oil. FCA recommends an MS-6395 0w20...key word is recommends... Enjoy the new van, they are awesome (my sister and mom both have one)
 
Originally Posted By: Throt
Just because you don't live in a cold climate doesn't mean that 0w20 is a definite nope. The overall makeup of 0w oils is more often than not of higher quality than the 5w oils and there's no downside to using it. A 20 weight is 20 weight at operating temp, whether in 90 degrees or 20 degrees. I run 0w20 in Norther Ohio and I'll still run it when I move South later this year.
Agreed. No reason to disregard 0W-20 based on climate if you're considering 5W-20 too.
 
Originally Posted By: RTexasF
Quote:
0W20 is a big nope from me for my climate.
Why do you believe this to be so? There is no reasoning for this whatsoever. If it calls for 0W20 (that pesky owner's manual again) then use it.
Corporate Average Fuel Economy standards. Accountants and bureaucrats are the reason the engine calls for 0W20. I am 100% certain that the actual engine engineers of the engine would spec something else for longevity. AND I live in south Florida. Its pretty much 70 degrees and up year round. If there is a VVT issue or some other issue unknown to me where the thinner oil is beneficial, I will certainly account for that. The same engine in Europe, where CAFE standards dont exist, uses 5W30 if I'm not mistaken. Timing chain life is usually much better on 30 weight than 20 weights as well.
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Corporate Average Fuel Economy standards. Accountants and bureaucrats are the reason the engine calls for 0W20. I am 100% certain that the actual engine engineers of the engine would spec something else for longevity. AND I live in south Florida. Its pretty much 70 degrees and up year round.
OK, sure. But the question was why is 0W-20 a "big nope" but 5W-20 is good to go?
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
0W20 is a big nope from me for my climate. It will get 5W20 Castrol Magnatech synthetic (or even 5W30 summer) most likely since its only $17.xx per 5 quarts.
Hi OP, not meant to give you a hard time but, you advise running 5W-20 now but will go 5W-30 in the summer, then you say it's 70 degrees year round where you live so you don't need to run the 0W-20? If 0W-20 is frowned upon because of CAFE Standards why run 5W-20? There are even some 0W-20 oils that are thicker at operating temps than their 5W alternatives. If you have an issue with 0W-20 because of CAFE, just skip any XW-20 and move up to a 30 year round. smile
 
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