2017 Camry V6 | Valvoline 0w-20 | 77,200mi | 5000mi

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A pretty boring result. My father in law has been driving this car since it was new, and never thought much of it, but due to some clicks and clanks as of late (which turned out to be just the new rotors and breaks settling in) he got a little paranoid that its time to switch out the car before any "major issues" happen. I assured him after lifting up the car and going through it that there is absolutely nothing wrong with the car, and even the bushings on everything look good and everything is snug and tight as it needs to be. Decided to do an oil analysis since I had a few blackstone kits laying around.

Looks like the 0w20 valvoline high mileage has more moly and calcium than the 5w30 EP I used recently.
These engines are super reliable and have no issues other than the early models back in the mid 2000's. Wear is pretty much non existent.
 

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Don't know that it needs such an expensive lube for such short OCIs. Could easily run an API house brand 5w-20 for that kind of service.
But ... is the owner is willing to change to a lesser cost lube? Unlikely.
Overall, the engine itself seems to be in fine shape; will last a very long time.
 
Don't know that it needs such an expensive lube for such short OCIs. Could easily run an API house brand 5w-20 for that kind of service.
But ... is the owner is willing to change to a lesser cost lube? Unlikely.
Overall, the engine itself seems to be in fine shape; will last a very long time.

My first reaction was you’re interjecting a Friday dose of sarcasm.

On second read, maybe not.

I see that oil for $27 on Walmart.com all day long for a 5 quart container. That’s expensive?

If he were running HPL or Amsoil SSO for a 5k mile OCI I could understand your point.

From the OP:

”Looks like the 0w20 valvoline high mileage has more moly and calcium than the 5w30 EP I used recently……………….
Wear is pretty much non existent.”

Happy engine, happy oil, happy owner.
 
My first reaction was you’re interjecting a Friday dose of sarcasm.

On second read, maybe not.

I see that oil for $27 on Walmart.com all day long for a 5 quart container. That’s expensive?

If he were running HPL or Amsoil SSO for a 5k mile OCI I could understand your point.

From the OP:

”Looks like the 0w20 valvoline high mileage has more moly and calcium than the 5w30 EP I used recently……………….
Wear is pretty much non existent.”

Happy engine, happy oil, happy owner.
This.

I pay on average 25$ after cash back and probably less after 5$ per 5qt rebate. 20$ for 5qt isn't bad considering I buy the filters in bulk at like 4$ a pop from the dealer. If someone has cheaper let me know.
 
No sarcasm intended.

The engine series is known for very low wear rates and super reliability.
5k mile OCIs are a walk in the park.
There's no "need" for a syn lube most likely, other that adherence to the 0w rating (which pretty much all brands will offer only a syn in that rating).
Given that this is a 2017, I suspect the warranty period is over, so adherence to the 0w isn't really a necessity.
The engine will be "happy" regardless of what is used; these engines aren't that particular.

Hence, go find a house brand 5w-20 of the appropriate spec (SP would work fine) and save money. The engine will NEVER know the difference, but the wallet will. The UOAs will come back pretty much the same; the engine doesn't "need" a 0w syn to run well and wear well for an (probably) elderly person who does 5k mile OCIs.
 
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No sarcasm intended.

The engine series is known for very low wear rates and super reliability.
5k mile OCIs are a walk in the park.
There's no "need" for a syn lube most likely, other that adherence to the 0w rating (which pretty much all brands will offer only a syn in that rating).
Given that this is a 2017, I suspect the warranty period is over, so adherence to the 0w isn't really a necessity.
The engine will be "happy" regardless of what is used; these engines aren't that particular.

Hence, go find a house brand 5w-20 of the appropriate spec (SP would work fine) and save money. The engine will NEVER know the difference, but the wallet will. The UOAs will come back pretty much the same; the engine doesn't "need" a 0w syn to run well and wear well for an (probably) elderly person who does 5k mile OCIs.
If it won't know the difference between 0w20 and 5w20 then your argument can be reversed, find the cheapest house brand 0w20 and it won't be able to tell the difference. I get your point, but I have a lot of 0w20 to go through and that is what I am going to do.

There is a need for synthetic since that is what the 2GR was designed around. That is what it is going to get.

You are right, I could pour olive oil in there and it would probably crank.
 
If it won't know the difference between 0w20 and 5w20 then your argument can be reversed, find the cheapest house brand 0w20 and it won't be able to tell the difference. I get your point, but I have a lot of 0w20 to go through and that is what I am going to do.

There is a need for synthetic since that is what the 2GR was designed around. That is what it is going to get.

You are right, I could pour olive oil in there and it would probably crank.
No engine is "designed around" an oil with a specific base stock composition.
 
If it won't know the difference between 0w20 and 5w20 then your argument can be reversed, find the cheapest house brand 0w20 and it won't be able to tell the difference. I get your point, but I have a lot of 0w20 to go through and that is what I am going to do.
No; my logic cannot be reversed.
There is no 0w-XX that I know of that isn't a synthetic of some nature.
There are some 5w-XX lubes that are conventional, or semi-syn. (these are going to cost less if all other things are considered equal)
The fact that you have a lot of 0w oil laying about is OK; certainly makes sense to use that up first. But that is not germane to my point; it's a sidebar anecdote.



There is a need for synthetic since that is what the 2GR was designed around.
There is no "need" for a synthetic; 2GR wasn't designed around a "synthetic"; that's a myth. The engine was designed with a proper modern lubrication spec in mind; not a base stock. The 2GR engine series was released in 2005; it was being designed starting in 2003. At the time the engine was designed on paper I suppose that API SM was prominent, By 2010, SN/GF-5 were released. There were no significant design changes to that engine which necessitated a lube spec change. The lube industry evolved, but the engine was "designed" when SM/GF-4 was in play. Those specs were easily met by an entire industry of conventional oils at the time. Even in 2017, when your FIL's engine was made, synthetic lubes were not a necessity; only oils meeting the API SN spec (which many conventional oils of the time could do). Additionally, these same engines are still spec'd for 5w-30 in most other regions other than North America. Any lube meeting a 5w grade with a SN rating would suffice quite well. Obviously, today SP is the dominant rating, and to meet that rating, some form of base stock improvement is required to meet that spec. But what the 2017 engine was originally designed with in mind, and what your brain thinks it "needs" are two entirely different things.

NOTE: the 2GR is just a smaller displacement version of the 1GR series; an engine that was released in 2002, and probably on paper in 1999???? This GR engine design harkens back more than two decades in its basic form. Changes have come in terms of valve actuation (single to dual VVTi) and fuel injection (port, DI, and dual), etc. But the basic design of the GR engine is actually much older than folks think.

NOTE: per the 2017 Camry owner's manual, page 501, the oil spec is "ILSAC GF-5 multigrade engine oil". They "recommend" 0w-20, but that is not a requirement; only a GF-5 lube is what is "needed".



That is what it is going to get.
What you intend to feed it is your choice; that's your prerogative. Nothing wrong with your current choice; it will do well, as it has shown. But so would just about any other lube as long as it's the proper spec, regardless of viscosity grade.

But please do realize that other people (many of them newbies) come lurking around BITOG. What you are claiming as fact is really just your opinion based on your biases and misinformation. The FACTS are that the 2GR engine was designed around a lube spec (SM) incredibly common around the world, and only North America applications recommend the 0w synthetic grades as times have evolved. Elsewhere in the world, it would be perfectly acceptable to run a 5w-20 or 5w-30 conventional oil which met SM/GF-4 or better in that engine.



***********
All that being said, this UOA shows the engine is in decent health (as expected).
And the lube did its job. (As would most any other SM or better, regardless of base stock).
 
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No; my logic cannot be reversed.
There is no 0w-XX that I know of that isn't a synthetic of some nature.
There are some 5w-XX lubes that are conventional, or semi-syn. (these are going to cost less if all other things are considered equal)
The fact that you have a lot of 0w oil laying about is OK; certainly makes sense to use that up first. But that is not germane to my point; it's a sidebar anecdote.




There is no "need" for a synthetic; 2GR wasn't designed around a "synthetic"; that's a myth. The engine was designed with a proper modern lubrication spec in mind; not a base stock. The 2GR engine series was released in 2005; it was being designed starting in 2003. At the time the engine was designed on paper I suppose that API SM was prominent, By 2010, SN/GF-5 were released. There were no significant design changes to that engine which necessitated a lube spec change. The lube industry evolved, but the engine was "designed" when SM/GF-4 was in play. Those specs were easily met by an entire industry of conventional oils at the time. Even in 2017, when your FIL's engine was made, synthetic lubes were not a necessity; only oils meeting the API SN spec (which many conventional oils of the time could do). Additionally, these same engines are still spec'd for 5w-30 in most other regions other than North America. Any lube meeting a 5w grade with a SN rating would suffice quite well. Obviously, today SP is the dominant rating, and to meet that rating, some form of base stock improvement is required to meet that spec. But what the 2017 engine was originally designed with in mind, and what your brain thinks it "needs" are two entirely different things.

NOTE: the 2GR is just a smaller displacement version of the 1GR series; an engine that was released in 2002, and probably on paper in 1999???? This GR engine design harkens back more than two decades in its basic form. Changes have come in terms of valve actuation (single to dual VVTi) and fuel injection (port, DI, and dual), etc. But the basic design of the GR engine is actually much older than folks think.

NOTE: per the 2017 Camry owner's manual, page 501, the oil spec is "ILSAC GF-5 multigrade engine oil". They "recommend" 0w-20, but that is not a requirement; only a GF-5 lube is what is "needed".




What you intend to feed it is your choice; that's your prerogative. Nothing wrong with your current choice; it will do well, as it has shown. But so would just about any other lube as long as it's the proper spec, regardless of viscosity grade.

But please do realize that other people (many of them newbies) come lurking around BITOG. What you are claiming as fact is really just your opinion based on your biases and misinformation. The FACTS are that the 2GR engine was designed around a lube spec (SM) incredibly common around the world, and only North America applications recommend the 0w synthetic grades as times have evolved. Elsewhere in the world, it would be perfectly acceptable to run a 5w-20 or 5w-30 conventional oil which met SM/GF-4 or better in that engine.



***********
All that being said, this UOA shows the engine is in decent health (as expected).
And the lube did its job
. (As would most any other SM or better, regardless of base stock).

And the OP has a stash of the UOA referenced oil to use up.

Switching to a ”house brand” 5w-20 at a $5 savings won’t save the OP any money when his already paid for stash is sitting unused!

You’ve made your point(s). Whatever they are supposed to be. And actually, it doesn’t sound like any sidebar I’ve ever been privy to.

Actually it seems more like a long opening and a long closing argument as to why the oil referenced in the UOA isn’t the best choice for that engine.

But seeing as how the preponderance of evidence favors the oil shown in the UOA above, I rule in favor of the OP and his stash.

VTECOveRated: thanks for posting your UOA. Good luck with the Camry!
 
I would stick to using Valvoline, it is among the cheaper oils with a stout additive pack and as the UOA shows it is a very good oil. Of course I am sure people will start hating because "Saudi" but don't listen to them.
 
For a V6 those really good wear metal readings. Great flashpoint with an excellent TBN. I would step right up to 7500 miles on my next change if it were me.
 
I would stick to using Valvoline, it is among the cheaper oils with a stout additive pack and as the UOA shows it is a very good oil. Of course I am sure people will start hating because "Saudi" but don't listen to them.
At my WM it is usually one of the more expensive oils. Cheapest are Supertech, Quaker State and Pennzoil (in that order). Often Valvoline is the most expensive non-boutique oil on WM's shelves, depending on Rollbacks.
 
And the OP has a stash of the UOA referenced oil to use up.

Switching to a ”house brand” 5w-20 at a $5 savings won’t save the OP any money when his already paid for stash is sitting unused!

You’ve made your point(s). Whatever they are supposed to be. And actually, it doesn’t sound like any sidebar I’ve ever been privy to.

Actually it seems more like a long opening and a long closing argument as to why the oil referenced in the UOA isn’t the best choice for that engine.

But seeing as how the preponderance of evidence favors the oil shown in the UOA above, I rule in favor of the OP and his stash.

VTECOveRated: thanks for posting your UOA. Good luck with the Camry!
Well said.
 
I would stick to using Valvoline, it is among the cheaper oils with a stout additive pack and as the UOA shows it is a very good oil. Of course I am sure people will start hating because "Saudi" but don't listen to them.
There's a host of 'human mistreatment' reasons to listen to. I miss not seeing the Valvoline labels inside my garage.

This UOA indicates the thread-starter here can achieve 300+k with this engine and most likely see almost identical results using any oil brand name ... even store brand names / labels.. The only store brand name I would avoid is NAPA oil.

This is a fabulous UOA. I'm really ticked off that I chose Korea over Japan in my last two vehicle purchases. I should have chosen the non-GDIs RAV-4 and CR-V engines in 2019 and 2020. I did look at both and walked away like an idiot.
 
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On the other hand that spectrographic analysis has almost nothing to do with the oil and everything to do with the specific engine and operating conditions. All this flapping about over Valvoline is utterly useless in that regard.
 
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