2016 Honda CRV sometimes won't start, starter problem? Video attached

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2016 CRV SE 2.4L I4 165,000mi with a starting issue. It's the work car and we're trying to DIY the repairs but need help diagnosing.

Frequently, when trying to start the car it just "clicks" and doesn't start. Then if you take the key out and try again, it usually works. Attached is a video of what I'm referring to.



It also started bucking on the highway. CEL flashing, no codes came up, nothing pending either. Co worker says one coil was previously bad, and replaced. Sparkplugs replaced with NGKs by a mechanic not too long ago. Is the first step to replace the 165k mile coil packs?

Thanks
 
2016 CRV SE 2.4L I4 165,000mi with a starting issue. It's the work car and we're trying to DIY the repairs but need help diagnosing.

Frequently, when trying to start the car it just "clicks" and doesn't start. Then if you take the key out and try again, it usually works. Attached is a video of what I'm referring to.



It also started bucking on the highway. CEL flashing, no codes came up, nothing pending either. Co worker says one coil was previously bad, and replaced. Sparkplugs replaced with NGKs by a mechanic not too long ago. Is the first step to replace the 165k mile coil packs?

Thanks

Coil packs/bucking is likely a separate issue unless you have an ECM problem which cause can all kinds of issues like misfires, coil codes and failure to crank and start (my sister is currently dealing with this on a Toyota - but they are known for ECM issues)
Your problem is more likely just a bad coil and a bad starter (video sounds like a bad starter). But the coil won't cause it to not crank.
 
Check the battery cables positive and negative. Especially the grounds side. Next time it does not start, leave the key in and jump the battery w/ a portable jumper and try to start the car. If it does, do check the ground side, I saw this on a 05 CRV.
 
Based upon my experience, it is possibly a bad starter, a weak battery, or a loose battery cable terminal clamp. Most U.S. made batteries have tapered (Type A) 1 top post terminals that are 2mm smaller than the DIN standard for (Type A1) terminal clamps typically used by Honda. Battery terminal shims are available to correct this discrepancy.

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If the condition occurs frequently and can be somewhat repeatable, you can pinpoint it by connecting a test light or voltmeter to the signal wire on the starter solenoid. If it is receiving 12V current when it clicks but doesn't start, it is a bad starter.
 
CRVs of that vintage are known for thin starter solenoid contacts. Ours wore out at 55,000 miles and needed a replacement. It’s a bit of pain to access via passenger side wheel well, requiring games with extensions and u-joints.
 
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