@Impatient, or you can look at HTFS, which is the dynamic (kinetic times the density) base-oil (BO; + the additive package) viscosity at 150 ℃. It is a good analogue/extension of HTHS for full shear.
It is theorized that the wear for the following engine components depends on these variables among other things: Bearings: high-temperature, high-shear (HTHS) viscosity, TBN/TAN/base-oil oxidation performance (lead and copper corrosion) Piston rings: base-oil viscosity, TBN/TAN/base-oil...
bobistheoilguy.com
Look, I’m following this thread because:
1) I have a similar EB3.5, which exhibits “moderate” fuel dilution. I’m jealous of EcoBOOST’s copper numbers, and even some of his other wear numbers (though apparently I’m doing better on FE with the VPBR oil (see below). Of course, he has no true reading on HIS fuel dilution, since using Blackstone.
2) therefore I am looking for an oil that resists the negatives of fuel dilution more than the “run-of-the-mill“ full synthetic oil. There was no SP when I first started UOA’ing the outgoing oils. So far, Valvoline Premium Blue RESTORE (VPBR) 10w30, which was recommended by a former BITOGer (now persona non grata), has done well, but the $75/gal (~$112 per OC) is a concern. Plus the $160 per UOA. Plus the availability…maybe gone, though there appears to be a “thinner” gen2 version (no idea of price or availability). So I am looking for a way to have a great oil at a lower price point. I don’t have tons of UOA’s on “run-of-the-mill” synthetics, but have been disappointed with those I did…. Therefore, the thought there might be a way to shop on specs to find another oil with good Fuel Dilution resisitance, hence my interest in your (Gokhan’s) tables…but apparently your data are not without some inconsistencies (given inconsistent sources).
3) that said, still interested. But could I ask for some additions? Do you do requests?
A) castrol Euro 0w30 a3/b4… but more “current” Belgium version, not original “green” SLX
B) additional Euro C3 or other Euro vs ILSAC SP data within a given brand (eg Amsoil)
C) try to clean up any “source-related” inconsistencies where SDS vs PDS or other source introduces non-comparable HTFS or BO KV100 results
D) is there any PAO vs GrpIII vs GTL conclusions that can be drawn regarding resistance to fuel dilution ill-effects?
4) I believe changing oil twice a year is warranted in my case (~12k-13k mi per year). But, I hate using a quickie lube somewhere (who knows where) during my summer travels which constitute 7k-9.5k miles of that 12k. 2 changes at 6k would make sense if I had more control over where I’d be when I reach that midpoint. This year, I capitulated when my OLM screamed at me at ~7.5mi (1.5mi from home). It was not a great experience. As messy as it is, I would rather DIY my OC’s, and know it was done right. So running a longer OCI in the summer has its merits. Hence, wanting best oil for that run.
over the (3-4) years, I’ve spent a good $1k on expensive oil and premium UOA’s. So you can see my concerns. That said, engine seems OK so far. It scared the “****e” out of me with high Pb reading on first UOA…now Pb gone. But trading in on new van is prohibitive considering the RV buildout costs. So wanting to milk all the life I can out of my gen1 EB3.5.
