2014 X3 N20 Maintenance

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Dec 28, 2011
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I ended up rolling the dice on a 2014 BMW X3 with N20 engine with 74k on the clock. Long term friend (owns a used car sales & a garage) gave it to me for a week to try out. I put 800 miles on it in that week and time will tell for me! I did get a 70k warranty with it for a little over $3k. He gave it to me for $8500 plus the warranty cost.

Started getting into it. Oil change a few days ago. Going with Mobil 1 0-40 Euro and Fram Endurance filter. Will change 5-6k miles and filter 2x run. Pretty easy to change oil on this one. Today, I used my friends lift a his shop and we did the trans kit (lower pan, filter, bolts, gasket pre-installed for you and fluid comes with it. Solid kit. Fluid looked really good but that's just an observation.

Also did the transfer case....what a PITA. No drain you have to drain it from the fill hole. Crossmember is in the way. Used Amsoil @Pablo ... thank you. Fluid was pretty nasty looking.

Did plugs and belt as well. Plugs were original and looked ok but I'm glad I did them. Will do trans, transfer case, and plugs at 150k without hesitation. I have a 7 second video of the trans fluid drain but can't seem to post it.

Next week will be front & rear diffs and coolant.

X3 Plugs at 75k.webp
 
Let us know about that Amsoil fluid in the Transfer Case. Generally, in the BMW enthusiast community, people stick religiously to DTF-1, including me.
Edit: You also need to reset xDrive fluid change interval through some OBD device. A really good one for BMW is ProTool as you can code bunch of stuff.
 
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The warranty cost seems a high % of the sale price.

Correct! Everything looks clean on this car but I wouldn't take the chance with an 11yr old DI turbo BMW without it. The known issue is the plastic chain tensioners but these are very clean looking. Can get wastegate issue. This route was shining like the north star compared to what I was finding for under 10k. And mileage was only 74k.

I'll keep updating if any repairs are needed. We can follow my gamble for a few years. Makes for some decent content.
 
Let us know about that Amsoil fluid in the Transfer Case. Generally, in the BMW enthusiast community, people stick religiously to DTF-1, including me.
Edit: You also need to reset xDrive fluid change interval through some OBD device. A really good one for BMW is ProTool as you can code bunch of stuff.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm still learning the car. I noticed the oil reset goes to 8k yet my old lady's 2020 430i is 10k. I didn't realize there was a reset for the XDrive. Have to look into that. It doesn't come up with the brake Fl, oil, etc.. The TC fluid looked pretty rough but trans fluid looked really good, like new.
 
Thanks for the heads up. I'm still learning the car. I noticed the oil reset goes to 8k yet my old lady's 2020 430i is 10k. I didn't realize there was a reset for the XDrive. Have to look into that. It doesn't come up with the brake Fl, oil, etc.. The TC fluid looked pretty rough but trans fluid looked really good, like new.
Yes, you must reset TC. If you get ProTool it is simple. You can also use INPA or ISTA to do it. Other better OBD tools should have it. But ProTool is basically INPA, and some ISTA functions translated to common users to be simple to use.
It won't come up with a service reset on your dashboard.
I have INPA dn ISTA, but also ProTool as it so much easier to use and easy to follow temperatures when I track car. You need ANdroid device:

https://www.bimmergeeks.net/protool

 
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Be ready to tear the transfer case apart and replace a plastic gear...oh and coolant expansion chamber...and the starter...

edit...my apologies, that was the first generation x3 I owned.
 
Probably because the warranty cost has nothing to do with the sale price.

Correct. The owner has access to a few different companies that provide warranties. This one was about $500 more than the next closest one but the coverage is better and so is the company....according to his experience. That $3k is his cost.
 
I highly recommend that you use only OE oil filters. Aftermarket oil filters don't seem to up to the task. I buy only MANN filters.

Go to www.realoem.com and enter the last 7 characters of the car's VIN. Hit enter and bookmark the page. This will site lists every part in you bimmer. I buy parts from FCP Euro. Prices are good and almost everything has a lifetime warranty.
 
I highly recommend that you use only OE oil filters. Aftermarket oil filters don't seem to up to the task. I buy only MANN filters.

Go to www.realoem.com and enter the last 7 characters of the car's VIN. Hit enter and bookmark the page. This will site lists every part in you bimmer. I buy parts from FCP Euro. Prices are good and almost everything has a lifetime warranty.
They're like 6 bucks on RockAuto, I bought a bunch of them since they are much cheaper than FCP
 
Has the cooling system been replaced? I would do that for peace of mind and the front/rear diff fluid if not done already. I wouldn't be surprised if a few bushings in the suspension could use some refreshing by this point as well. Also, agree with the OE oil filter as mentioned above.
 
Has the cooling system been replaced? I would do that for peace of mind and the front/rear diff fluid if not done already. I wouldn't be surprised if a few bushings in the suspension could use some refreshing by this point as well. Also, agree with the OE oil filter as mentioned above.
Aman!
New coolant reservoir and aluminium Mickey Mouse flange, NOT plastic one (BMW OE).
All hoses, preferably BMW OE, forget Rein etc.
 
Yes, you must reset TC. If you get ProTool it is simple. You can also use INPA or ISTA to do it. Other better OBD tools should have it. But ProTool is basically INPA, and some ISTA functions translated to common users to be simple to use.
It won't come up with a service reset on your dashboard.
I have INPA dn ISTA, but also ProTool as it so much easier to use and easy to follow temperatures when I track car. You need ANdroid device:

https://www.bimmergeeks.net/protool


@BISCUT +1. For Protocol. Using it today as a matter of fact.

1000000952.webp
 
Its the high cost of repairs that drive down market values of older BMWs.

And the more they cost to repair, the higher the warranty costs.
 
Any of these can be OEM: MANN, Hengst, Mahle and UFI.

I use Hengst, a perfect fit in E90. I think N20 has the same filter. I used this Hengst on numerous track days. Comes out the same shape as the new.
Yes, for N20, N52, N55, etc MANN is the OE (same as BMW branded oil filter)

But Hengst is a really nice option as it seems to have a bit more rigidity and possible more pleats.

I like to get the MANN oil filters and DOT4lv from RockAuto, it's the cheapest option for me, especially since I service my mom's car with the same parts
 
Any of these can be OEM: MANN, Hengst, Mahle and UFI.

I use Hengst, a perfect fit in E90. I think N20 has the same filter. I used this Hengst on numerous track days. Comes out the same shape as the new.
Good to know.
 
Apologies for the dealy. As mentioned, this was a really good friend and I finally got around to lunch and purchasing the extended warranty. $3200 for comprehensive warranty. Covers about 85% of the vehicle and I was wrong, it is 36 months and 100k miles; $250 deductible. Worth it to me as I will have 28-34k a year on it.

I'll report back often with the dice roll on this one.
 
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