2013 Chevy Sonic 1.8 engine replacement rebuild options?

9

97prizm

Joined
May 25, 2005
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Hi All,

So my sister has a 2013 Chevy Sonic 1.8 non turbo that she may have overheated. My parents are in Phoenix looking at it. A new thermostat didn't remedy the overheating issue. My dad is going to try to pressurize the system tomorrow to see if there are coolant bubbles. The head can only be machined .003-.004 inches. There's a JDM engine supplier in Dallas called Dallas jdm that has a new 1.8 for $2400 and another supplier with a rebuilt long block for $1999.00. Any thoughts. If the block can be machined a head is $450-$900 from what I've found. Unfortunately $2k doesn't get you a running car anymore. Any suggestions? She starts a new job soon so not much time. Her last job didn't last long.
 
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My friend has a 2012 Sonic with the NA 1.8. The cooling system has a lot of plastic parts which get brittle with age. The oil cooler gasket can fail, allowing oil to mix with the coolant, which ruins the hoses. The water pump gasket, O-ring style, flattens out and leaks.
 
dogememe said:
Fix the original reason it overheated then throw some Bars HG-1 in there and drive the car the way it is until you can save up for something better.

No way I’d bother putting an engine in one of those. And I’m a big GM fan. Just FYI so you know I’m not being a hater.
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I was wondering about this, too. Is a '13 Sonic worth this effort?

I know OP said money's tight, but you're throwing $2500‐3000 in parts alone (figure oil, filter, hoses, coolant, maybe a radiator etc....IT ADDS UP). Then is the dad providing 100% labor?

After all that you still have a 2013 Sonic.
 
What's wrong with the engine? Just because it overheated doesn't mean it is a death sentence. Why do you think the engine needs to be replaced or the head machined?

If it is still overheating after a thermostat it probably is either the water pump or the electric fan. Did the head gasket let go? Did coolant mix with the oil? Oil mix with the coolant? If the thermostat was replaced I imagine someone would have noticed a milkshake.
 
AdmiralYoda said:
What's wrong with the engine? Just because it overheated doesn't mean it is a death sentence. Why do you think the engine needs to be replaced or the head machined?

If it is still overheating after a thermostat it probably is either the water pump or the electric fan. Did the head gasket let go? Did coolant mix with the oil? Oil mix with the coolant? If the thermostat was replaced I imagine someone would have noticed a milkshake.
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I'll know more today as my dad is performing a leak down test. I don't think it's showing signs of the coolant mixing with oil. It still overheats with a new thermostat.
 
.003 shave on the heads? I would just use a thicker head gasket. Aluminum heads do warp easy when overheated but that number doesn't leave much room for repair. Throw a bottle of head gasket sealer in it and run it until you can afford to repair it.
 
Seems that time to get it fixed is the most important right now? If so, engine replacement is the most practical choice. I'd consider warranty on the JDM vs the rebuilt unit.
 
97prizm said:
I'll know more today as my dad is performing a leak down test. I don't think it's showing signs of the coolant mixing with oil. It still overheats with a new thermostat.
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Still sounds like a water pump or electric fan.

Does it overheat while driving or only at a stop? If an electric fan failed there will be ample air flow at speed for the radiator to cool the coolant. At low speeds there isn't enough airflow and it will overheat.

A bad water pump just wont circulate enough coolant and it will overheat regardless.

A failed head gasket causing exhaust gases to go into the coolant probably won't cause extreme overheating but may make it run warmer than usual. There will be lots of bubbles coming out of the radiator cap.

Find the cause of the overheating before firing the expensive parts cannon at it!
 
Arc said:
.003 shave on the heads? I would just use a thicker head gasket. Aluminum heads do warp easy when overheated but that number doesn't leave much room for repair. Throw a bottle of head gasket sealer in it and run it until you can afford to repair it.
Click to expand...
I did see something about if you use thicker head gaskets it can change the compression.
 
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AdmiralYoda said:
Still sounds like a water pump or electric fan.

Does it overheat while driving or only at a stop? If an electric fan failed there will be ample air flow at speed for the radiator to cool the coolant. At low speeds there isn't enough airflow and it will overheat.

A bad water pump just wont circulate enough coolant and it will overheat regardless.

A failed head gasket causing exhaust gases to go into the coolant probably won't cause extreme overheating but may make it run warmer than usual. There will be lots of bubbles coming out of the radiator cap.

Find the cause of the overheating before firing the expensive parts cannon at it!
Click to expand...
The water pump on hers is actually belt driven. No exhaust in the coolant.
 
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