2012 Sonata oil

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jul 16, 2004
Messages
49
Location
Wisconsin
Time to open the proverbial "can of worms" here. I just purchased a new Hyundai Sonata (2012) with the 2.4 liter inline 4 cylinder motor. I live in Wisconsin and the motor is the standard ULEV 198 hp version. Right now the temperature is about -8F and the wind chill is around -20F, with a low tonight (actual temp) of about -14F. Several years ago i began using M1 in all of my vehicles and thanks to Pablo, Amsoil for 2 stroke and air compressor applications. I use M1 because it is relatively cheap ($23 for a 5 qt jug) and easily accessable at the local Wallyworld. It gives me the easy cold startups that I need in winter and slightly better gas mileage (0W-30 green in all GM vehicles) plus I have had no problems with extended drain intervals of 1 yr or 10k miles. My vehicles have over 200k. On to the Hyundai...the warranty calls for 4 month/ 3750 mile changes with 5W-20 SM GF-4. The dealer wants $30 for an oil change. I am sure it is a bulk 0W-20 conventional oil and a Hyundai filter. For under $40, I could purchase M1 0W-20 Green that meets or exceeds Hyundai specs, a Purolator Pure One filter and pay my GM mechanic $10 for the oil and lube service. The reason for the change to synthetics was cold weather performance and fuel savings. In fact, to plug Pablo, in winter here my air compressor would always trip the breaker with OEM compressor oil, but I have yet to trip the breaker during a cold winter startup while using the Amsoil compressor oil! In the vehicles, I was amazed at the difference in cold starts when I switched to synthetics. It sold me on their usage. Back to the Hyundai...today the Sonata, to my suprise, started and ran flawlessly in the cold with the factory oil. My wife will be driving this car. She generally puts about 7k per year on it and most of her trips are to work and back, a 3 mile trip each way. This means short trips and cold starts and runs are the most common drive. Summers can get hot, up to 95-100F during several days, with perhaps 15 total summer days around 90+ and 30-40 days right around 85F. The only dusty conditions are our gravel driveway. I will not be draining beyond 3,750 miles as I don't want any reason for them to void the warranty. What do you think? I can't say that I will use each of your recommendations, but I would be interested in hearing them and your reasoning. Thanks!
 
Honestly. Can you do your own oil changes as far as warantee is concerned. And do you want to risk fighting with them if there is a failure. My caliber is under warantee. I take it to mr lube when the olm tells me to,and use pyb. And keep the receipt. Once the warantee is up I am going to go to ultra,and 6000 km changes. As of right now the olm averages about 4000 kms before is says change oil. Is it worth the warantee risk. Just play by their rules til you don't have to anymore
 
No problems with your plan to use the M1 0w20, just keep a record in a folder and boom...done...nice ride, I have the 2011 and I don't regret it. 0w20 is the best choice for you with the very short trips, make sure you get it out every once and a while and drive it good. DON'T go over 3750/4-6mo's. Watch for fuel dilution.
 
Last edited:
Thanks! Ours is a Limited and instead of the OEM Kumho tires it has Goodyear Comfortred Grand Touring 17s. MUCH smoother and quieter than the OEMs. We are very happy so far. Windows get tinted tomorrow.
 
Originally Posted By: Willscary
On to the Hyundai...the warranty calls for 4 month/ 3750 mile changes with 5W-20 SM GF-4. The dealer wants $30 for an oil change. I am sure it is a bulk 0W-20 conventional oil and a Hyundai filter. For under $40, I could purchase M1 0W-20 Green that meets or exceeds Hyundai specs, a Purolator Pure One filter and pay my GM mechanic $10 for the oil and lube service.
I don't think anyone makes 0w20 as a pure conventional. All I know of in that grade is synthetic and I think semi-synthetic
 
Does the owner's manual say you can use a 0w20? I know, I know, the oil companies say you can use a 0w20 in place of a 5w20 but was does Hyundai say? If you run 0w20 for 20,000 miles and have a sudden engine failure, are they going to pay the claim? With the requirement of a 3,750 mile OCI, I would be looking at PYB or MC in 5w20. A dino 5w20 flows almost as good as a grp III when cold.
 
Originally Posted By: 04SE
Does the owner's manual say you can use a 0w20? I know, I know, the oil companies say you can use a 0w20 in place of a 5w20 but was does Hyundai say? If you run 0w20 for 20,000 miles and have a sudden engine failure, are they going to pay the claim? With the requirement of a 3,750 mile OCI, I would be looking at PYB or MC in 5w20. A dino 5w20 flows almost as good as a grp III when cold.
Yes, 0-20 is good in the Sonata. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-20.aspx
 
Originally Posted By: 04SE
Does the owner's manual say you can use a 0w20? I know, I know, the oil companies say you can use a 0w20 in place of a 5w20 but was does Hyundai say? If you run 0w20 for 20,000 miles and have a sudden engine failure, are they going to pay the claim? With the requirement of a 3,750 mile OCI, I would be looking at PYB or MC in 5w20. A dino 5w20 flows almost as good as a grp III when cold.
No, 0w-20 is not specifically stated in the manual, and neither are synthetics. Apparently, Quaker State is the factory fill and it is recommended by name in the manual. The only QS 5w-20 that I see is the "Advanced Protection" type and that is more expensive than M1 5w-20 and 0w-20afe. I like the specs of the PYB 5w-20 but I do not see a price per 5qt bottle. Again, I can allow the Hyundai dealer to provide and install for $30+tax, but my favorite chevy dealer will install whatever I want plus lube for $10 labor. I can supply M1 and a Pure one filter for about $28, so for a few bucks, I can afford to go synthetic. The warranty does worry me.
 
you may want to look a little closer at yer manual OP. that 3750 is severe schedule and you are short tripping it, but the usual OCI is 7500 miles. if you are gonna severe it, then I'd go w/ the dealer. the hyundai filter is a korean mann that is pretty good, on par w/ a pure one. the di is not so bad of a problem on the N/A 2.4 the UOA show on the forums. there's no lube points.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: LineArrayNut
you may want to look a little closer at yer manual OP. that 3750 is severe schedule and you are short tripping it, but the usual OCI is 7500 miles. if you are gonna severe it, then I'd go w/ the dealer. the hyundai filter is a korean mann that is pretty good, on par w/ a pure one. the di is not so bad of a problem on the N/A 2.4 the UOA show on the forums. there's no lube points.
No lube points? You mean there are no grease zerts? Is this something new?
 
I can't find any and I asked and they said there were none; kinda like our 'lifetime' (sic) ATF fluid for the 6spd trans... ;-)
 
Originally Posted By: LineArrayNut
you may want to look a little closer at yer manual OP. that 3750 is severe schedule and you are short tripping it, but the usual OCI is 7500 miles. if you are gonna severe it, then I'd go w/ the dealer. the hyundai filter is a korean mann that is pretty good, on par w/ a pure one. the di is not so bad of a problem on the N/A 2.4 the UOA show on the forums. there's no lube points.
Ditto... The normal recommended OCI by Hyundai(not the dealer) is 7500 miles. Severe is very short trips and a lot of bumper to bumper idling. You use a syn oil then you would be perfectly fine to do 5K OCI's. Driving 3 miles to work and back with a few occasional highway drives would also be fine for 7500 miles... My son has a 2011 Sonata and that is what he does and his engine is squeaky clean through the oil fill cap at 30K miles. It funny because my Hyundai dealer also wants my wifes 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe V6 in every 3750 miles(we are 90/10 highway miles and we told them this). That is also crazy, considering that they put Mobil 1 0W20 in her Santa Fe. I noticed on the new window OCI sticker, that they went out only 3K for the next OCI. That is ridiculous, considering I told them to go 5K, which is still way to short. Dealers just want you in early so they can stick you with other maintenance charges... Looks like most Hyundai dealers are doing this.
 
Last edited:
Use whatever oil you want, but I would use the OEM Hyundai oil filter. They are built like tanks in house!
 
The response from Hyundai: Thank you for contacting Hyundai Motor America. We appreciate the opportunity to address your inquiry regarding the proper motor oil to use in your 2012 Hyundai Sonata. Although we recommend the use of 5W-20 oil to allow proper operation at a wide range of temperatures, per section 8, page 5 of your Owner's Manual, other weights of oil may be used as appropriate. Please consult with the service department of your local Hyundai dealership for specific advice with respect to your local climate and expected driving patterns. We are confident they are in the best position to provide expert advice. The use of non-recommended oil does not, by itself, void your warranty. However, any damage to the engine caused by the use of non-recommended lubricants would not be covered.
 
I have a 2011 hyundai Elantra 4 cyl and do 5k OCI's with Motorcraft 5w-20 oil and Hyundai oil filter. 3750 miles is way too early in my opinion and your wasting your money. No lube points on vehicles. Manufacturers went to sealed front end points long time ago on most vehicles.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top