2011 Scion xB purchase. What should I look for?

Owen Lucas

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2011 Scion xB 170k miles. Going for $3k. Looks decent in photos, carfax shows 2 accidents, none recent.

I understand this was one of the oil burner years and here's what I'll be looking for to see if it is burning oil:
  • Sooty exhaust.
  • Blue smoke on startup and on WOT.
  • Sludge under oil cap.
  • Oil level and oil color.

    Any other indications it's an oil burner?

Other points I will be inspecting:
  • Tire wear, it supposedly has newer tires though.
  • Bushings are an issue according to Ai, so I'll be driving over a few bumps in the road to feel / hear suspension issues.
  • AC leaks are supposed to be common on this model, so I'll test the AC and look at the condenser and AC lines.
  • Confirmed no recalls / Takata recall.
  • Underbody / structural inspection due to Carfax indicators.
Any other advice?
 
At that mileage you may have wheel bearings going out. Listen for roaring, it should be apparent.
Great point about the wheel bearings. I'll pay attention to that.

I'd gloss over some issues if you found them and budget for it.
Agreed, this will be a DD that I don't intend on restoring. I know the engine (sans oil issues) and transmission is strong on these models. So I just need to make sure the brakes and suspension are fine.

All that considered, $3k is excellent if no rust.
I value the car at $6k min so there's either something wrong or it's a heck of a deal!
 
Doesn't seem too bad to me. I've read often that these do well with the B12 piston soaks and are pretty easy to do. Actually may do it for my brother's 2010 soon, followed by Valvoline Restore and Protect and possibly Ring free as well. His is at 217k now and burns 1qt a week (not sure on mileage)
 
I'm driving 2nd gen Scion tC which has most of the things xB has, just running the 2AR-FE engine. I'm pretty satisfied with this vehicle. It burns just about a quart for 5K miles and I'm working on it.
My original A/C compressor couldn't make it to 10 years.
 
I've got some experience with multiple 2AZ vehicles, as well as couple xB & tC Scions.
- Chances are - exhaust will be cleaner than expected, but it may still be a heavy oil burner. Had that.
- Blue smoke on startup not likely, unless valve guides are shot. But WOT is a good plan.
- Sludge under oil cap highly unlikely. If an oil burner - it gets enough fresh oil through to keep itself clean.
- Oil level and oil color also can't tell much. On one I was certain it's a burner, yet oil level never dropped after purchase. On another I was certain it's a good one, yet it burned oil like a fast food restaurant.

Just go in expecting a crazy oil burner, and you'll be pleasantly surprised if it's not. Realistically - not many signs will give it away, unless the previous owner is honest, good luck with that one. Either way - 2AZ is an awesome engine and Scion xB is an awesome car, regardless of the oil consumption. Keep it topped off. On my 2008 Scion xB the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30 completely fixed the oil consumption, but that oil struggles to go past 3000 miles without making the timing chain and valvetrain sound like it's running dry. So use Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30 with 3000-mile intervals, until oil consumption is gone. And then stick to something in 40-grade with reasonable intervals, this engine loves 40-grade.
Or for the oil consumption there is always the route of Berryman B12 week-long piston soak. If that doesn't fix it - nothing will.
 
Thanks for the help everyone.

I checked the car out, it's got some light body damage but being black, it's hard to tell.

I ruled out structural damage as best I could, looks like the collisions were external sheet metal only. The cooling module appears to be OEM and radiator support original as well. Body gaps are fine except the lower part of the front bumper is cracked / bottomed out.

The owner is a Toyota Tech and it was his daughters car. I presume that would mean he took care it pretty well. He confirmed new alternator in the past year with recent brake work. Drove fine, mostly quiet, did figure 8s in the cul-de-sac (lol) confirming CV joints are not bad. Even wear on the tires and steering seemed straight though the winding neighborhood roads were hard to reference straight tracking.

I've got some experience with multiple 2AZ vehicles, as well as couple xB & tC Scions.
- Chances are - exhaust will be cleaner than expected, but it may still be a heavy oil burner. Had that.
- Blue smoke on startup not likely, unless valve guides are shot. But WOT is a good plan.
- Sludge under oil cap highly unlikely. If an oil burner - it gets enough fresh oil through to keep itself clean.
- Oil level and oil color also can't tell much. On one I was certain it's a burner, yet oil level never dropped after purchase. On another I was certain it's a good one, yet it burned oil like a fast food restaurant.
You called it.

Oil cap looked clean, no smoke on startup or WOT. Engine oil looked new. Exhaust a little sooty but not horrible. Toyota tech dad confirmed 1 quart of oil every month, which appears to be 1000 miles / mo based on Carfax trend and local college commute.

The 02 sensor was replaced but still throwing a MIL, owner claims its the heating element not working in the 02 sensor??

The car skidding TRAC/VSC light is illuminated permanently. The owner says this light always comes on when the MIL is on (due to the O2 sensor). I am a bit skeptical of this, thoughts?

Lights on.webp


Just go in expecting a crazy oil burner, and you'll be pleasantly surprised if it's not. Realistically - not many signs will give it away, unless the previous owner is honest, good luck with that one. Either way - 2AZ is an awesome engine and Scion xB is an awesome car, regardless of the oil consumption. Keep it topped off. On my 2008 Scion xB the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30 completely fixed the oil consumption, but that oil struggles to go past 3000 miles without making the timing chain and valvetrain sound like it's running dry. So use Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30 with 3000-mile intervals, until oil consumption is gone. And then stick to something in 40-grade with reasonable intervals, this engine loves 40-grade.
Or for the oil consumption there is always the route of Berryman B12 week-long piston soak. If that doesn't fix it - nothing will.
I'm fine if it burns oil all said and done, a quart a month is fine with me.

I will of course follow your instructions and try out the piston soak and switch to Valvoline Restore and Protect.

At that mileage you may have wheel bearings going out. Listen for roaring, it should be apparent.
No obvious groaning.

Ring free as well
Is this the fuel additive from Yamaha? I presume use it as intended or straight down the spark plug hole like B12?
 
Word on TRAC/VSC is correct. As far as MIL itself - an actual trouble code would tell a better story. I do know that many of my Toyota/Lexus vehicles wouldn't take any aftermarket O2 sensors. Whether upstream for fuel mixture, or downstream for emissions sniffing - DENSO oxygen sensors were the only 100% solution. All others either failed from the start, or failed within a couple months.
 
Thanks for the help everyone.

I checked the car out, it's got some light body damage but being black, it's hard to tell.

I ruled out structural damage as best I could, looks like the collisions were external sheet metal only. The cooling module appears to be OEM and radiator support original as well. Body gaps are fine except the lower part of the front bumper is cracked / bottomed out.

The owner is a Toyota Tech and it was his daughters car. I presume that would mean he took care it pretty well. He confirmed new alternator in the past year with recent brake work. Drove fine, mostly quiet, did figure 8s in the cul-de-sac (lol) confirming CV joints are not bad. Even wear on the tires and steering seemed straight though the winding neighborhood roads were hard to reference straight tracking.


You called it.

Oil cap looked clean, no smoke on startup or WOT. Engine oil looked new. Exhaust a little sooty but not horrible. Toyota tech dad confirmed 1 quart of oil every month, which appears to be 1000 miles / mo based on Carfax trend and local college commute.

The 02 sensor was replaced but still throwing a MIL, owner claims its the heating element not working in the 02 sensor??

The car skidding TRAC/VSC light is illuminated permanently. The owner says this light always comes on when the MIL is on (due to the O2 sensor). I am a bit skeptical of this, thoughts?



Is this the fuel additive from Yamaha? I presume use it as intended or straight down the spark plug hole like B12?
Doesn't sound too bad overall really. Agreed on trying a Denso o2 sensor. If that doesn't work, on my Corolla I added a spark plug fouler and code has been off the last 15k miles.

The Ring free is the Yamaha stuff (y) Your plan is good, should take care of at least most of the oil burning.
 
Agreed on trying a Denso o2 sensor. If that doesn't work, on my Corolla I added a spark plug fouler and code has been off the last 15k miles.
Interesting, I didn't know about this spark plug fowler device.

I'll see how Ring Free and B12 does, follow up by some Cataclean / Rislone Cat Complete and see if the code goes away.
 
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Interesting, I didn't know about this spark plug fowler device.

I'll see how Ring Free and B12 does, follow up by some Aataclean / Rislone Cat Complete and see if the code goes away.
Been there, done that
Piston soaks, Yamalube Ringfree, B12 idle flush, O² spacer on the post cat oxygen sensor

I'm a few hundred miles from 300k 😲👀

 
Been there, done that
Piston soaks, Yamalube Ringfree, B12 idle flush, O² spacer on the post cat oxygen sensor
I presume these methods worked out?

300k? Nice work! This xB is a little over half way there.

What do you mean by the B12 idle flush?
 
Interesting, I didn't know about this spark plug fowler device.

I'll see how Ring Free and B12 does, follow up by some Cataclean / Rislone Cat Complete and see if the code goes away.
The spark fouler trick is only for the sniffer sensors, after the catalytic converters. It usually "fixes" the P0420/P0430 codes. Do not use any spacers/nonfoulers on the pre-cat sensors, the fuel mixture ones. I'm sure you knew this, but I did witness that mistake once. Just throwing it out there for non gearheads.
 
I presume these methods worked out?

300k? Nice work! This xB is a little over half way there.

What do you mean by the B12 idle flush?
I typoed,
BG EPR (formerly 109) is a strong idle flush
https://a.co/d/bvp4d6Y
Yamalube Ringfree is a fuel additive, dose for a few tanks according to the bottle
https://a.co/d/6UAnEDS
Berryman B12 Chemtool solvent is very good for a piston soak, read my tales or watch many videos on the procedure
https://a.co/d/6dEhRV1

A fresh OE Toyota PCV valve, and a stout 5w30/5w40 on top of freeing the oil control rings should help your 2AZ 📦 last longer

The YZZF1 (slightly longer) filter will get you to 4.5qt capacity

Mine was a $1400 eBay impulse purchase, a guinea pig if you will
It's got some blow-by, and it's knocking (metaphorically) on 300k, it's gonna use a bit of oil

Mine goes about ~3,000 miles on 1 qt, reasonable for an engine of its mileage and wear

If it sets P0420 catalyst efficiency codes, put the O² spacer on the post cat oxygen sensor, it's fairly easy to reach from underneath

If you have hard starting/lean codes, consider the updated Toyota orange intake gasket
Also consider the injectors like to clog up and get restricted with time, I sent mine out to @Trav and he did an excellent job, far better than aftermarket nonsense
 
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