2011 Mercedes ML350 tranny fluid

[doublebase]

Aside from OE fluid (which I believe is somewhere around $26 dollars a quart), anyone have any suggestions or experience with these things? My wife’s vehicle is now at 95,000 miles, time to do a transmission service...probably should have done it sooner.

It‘s the 7 speed.

Not real familiar with German cars. Loos like I’ll have to fill the fluid from the bottom with an adapter and check fluid level when the transmission temp reaches 112ish? Sounds like my Toyota a bit.

 

[Pelican]

Aside from OE fluid (which I believe is somewhere around $26 dollars a quart), anyone have any suggestions or experience with these things? My wife’s vehicle is now at 95,000 miles, time to do a transmission service...probably should have done it sooner.

It‘s the 7 speed.

Not real familiar with German cars. Loos like I’ll have to fill the fluid from the bottom with an adapter and check fluid level when the transmission temp reaches 112ish? Sounds like my Toyota a bit.

I think Fuchs makes it for MB. A word of advice from one who has owned MBs, Follow the maintenance manual TO THE LETTER. MB are not cars to cheap-out on, if you do it ends up costing you a lot more in the end.

 

[Tikka]

Hi
The fluid you are looking for carries the MB236.14 approval. The following link is a list of those fluids. Pretty sure you should be able to find one.

MB 236.14 - Automatic transmission fluids (ATF, CVT) - Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids (mercedes-benz.com)

There are of course multi use fluids that 'meet' the spec but i would go for the Mercedes approved stuff.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

You can use Maxlife

 

[loneryder]

You can use Maxlife

Don't do it! Some have tried and trans don't shift correctly. It's on MB forums. Shell makes a ATF 134 which has that approval.

 

[Flyingdutchman]

With most mb automatics you can also drain the torque converter, you need to locate the plug on it.

You do need a filling device for it to fill the automatic again.

As been said look for a manual.

With my bmw ZF i used the oem zf lifeguard 6 which is oem used in it.
I would also do that

 

[doublebase]

Don't do it! Some have tried and trans don't shift correctly. It's on MB forums. Shell makes a ATF 134 which has that approval.

I just ordered a case of the shell 134 atf.

So it looks like I have the older fluid (not the blue fluid). Vehicle was made June 2010 which falls under the red fluid.

Now I just have to find a filter kit.

 

[Tikka]

Hi
Pleased to read you are sorted. I think pre 2011 were red fluid.

It looks easier to get the level correct than my MB722.6 transmission. The overflow pipe is a good idea.

 

[Wolf359]

You can get it from a local Shell distributor.

https://www.shell.us/business-customers/lubricants-for-business/lubricants-distributor-locator.html

A case of 12 quarts of Shell ATF 134 was around $60ish, I think the Shell ATF 134 FE is around 80ish and still cheaper than the dealer.

You would check EPC or check with the MB dealer to make sure you have the right fluid for your particular vin number, ATF 134 is 236.14 and ATF 134 FE is 236.15 which is the blue fluid.

They switched from the red to the blue sometime in 2011.

For parts, I usually just get stuff from FCPeuro, lifetime warranty on all parts so you just buy the filter kit once.

 

[SlavaB]

Check rmeuropean store, they have plenty of options

 

[The Critic]

My thread:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/mercedes-722-9-transmission-service-tips.280379/

Some of the older variants used a different temp for setting the fluid level. Some models required an updated oil pan as well. All depends on the color of the fluid stand pipe and the production date.

 

[doublebase]

My thread:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/mercedes-722-9-transmission-service-tips.280379/

Some of the older variants used a different temp for setting the fluid level. Some models required an updated oil pan as well. All depends on the color of the fluid stand pipe and the production date.

Excellent write up!

I‘m 90% sure I have the red fluid because my production date was June 2010. Plus my pan has four dimples, rather than the oval dimples in the rear (I’ve read that is a dead give away of which fluid you have).

I have the red fluid Shell134 on the way, along with the fill adapter, hopefully I can buy the filter, gasket and bolts at a local parts store this week. I have the Autel scan tool...I plan on measuring what comes out and performing the service cold.

Didn’t realize that I may be able to drain the torque converter, wasn’t planning on that. Wonder how difficult that is?

My wife’s Mercedes was purchased this June with 90,000 miles on it...I hope this isn’t the first time it’s been serviced. I did buy an extended warranty (power train and electrical) for a very reasonable $1,000 total. But I have to keep up with the maintenance to maintain the warranty. I have a few things I need to do besides the transmission service...idler pulley is squeaking, left front wheel bearing is making noise, and a tire pressure sensor has failed. I’ve already replaced the drivers side multi function master switch. I’ll be changing the differential fluid too while I’m doing the transmission service. So far I like the vehicle.

 

[2EHA]

The NAG1 can run on anything but the 7speed has its own friction modifier requirements. I don’t think maxlife says “suitable/recommended for” for it on the back of the bottle.

 

[Wolf359]

The NAG1 can run on anything but the 7speed has its own friction modifier requirements. I don’t think maxlife says “suitable/recommended for” for it on the back of the bottle.

It's been covered in many threads. Basically it's not an MB approved fluid.

https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/236.14_en.html

When Shell ATF 134 is about $60 for a case of 12 quarts, why even bother gambling on a fluid that's not approved. To be fair, people have used it and haven't reported any problems. But it's probably one of those things where if it did blow up, not too many people will admit to it.

 

[doublebase]

Pretty impressed with my local dealership today, called the parts department and asked them a few questions...guy was very helpful and knowledgeable.

Ended up buying the filter, gasket, bolts and torque converter drain plug. Total $97 bucks. Thought that was very reasonable overall.

Going to do the service on Friday.

 

[The Critic]

Excellent write up!

I‘m 90% sure I have the red fluid because my production date was June 2010. Plus my pan has four dimples, rather than the oval dimples in the rear (I’ve read that is a dead give away of which fluid you have).

I have the red fluid Shell134 on the way, along with the fill adapter, hopefully I can buy the filter, gasket and bolts at a local parts store this week. I have the Autel scan tool...I plan on measuring what comes out and performing the service cold.

Didn’t realize that I may be able to drain the torque converter, wasn’t planning on that. Wonder how difficult that is?

My wife’s Mercedes was purchased this June with 90,000 miles on it...I hope this isn’t the first time it’s been serviced. I did buy an extended warranty (power train and electrical) for a very reasonable $1,000 total. But I have to keep up with the maintenance to maintain the warranty. I have a few things I need to do besides the transmission service...idler pulley is squeaking, left front wheel bearing is making noise, and a tire pressure sensor has failed. I’ve already replaced the drivers side multi function master switch. I’ll be changing the differential fluid too while I’m doing the transmission service. So far I like the vehicle.

Squeaking idler pulley may be due to a pulley alignment issue. There is a TSB on this for the 204 chassis cars with the 272 engine, not sure if it applies to the ML vehicles. I still have the extra washers needed for the TSB, I can send them to you if you want.

 

[Wolf359]

If you have a copy of EPC which you can get on ebay, you can pretty much look up the parts yourself.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Latest-202...air-Workshop-Manual-Full-version/123679649919

Takes a while to figure out. Sometimes the dealer charges more than list price. Otherwise you can usually get the parts at about 30% off list price on average from several online MB dealers. But for $97, you probably wouldn't save that much ordering it online, everyone charges for shipping, the dealers closer to you are usually cheaper than the ones halfway across the country.

 

[The Critic]

Pretty impressed with my local dealership today, called the parts department and asked them a few questions...guy was very helpful and knowledgeable.

Ended up buying the filter, gasket, bolts and torque converter drain plug. Total $97 bucks. Thought that was very reasonable overall.

Going to do the service on Friday.

$97 sounds about right if you are paying msrp.

Just did a pan drop and filter change on the E350 tonight, same car as shown in the thread. Car has 130k now. It had been 45k since the last one. Drained out about 4.5qt, refill took about the same. I set the fluid level at 110f, didn’t notice much of a difference between 95f and 110f in regards to the amount of excess fluid drained.

 

[doublebase]

Squeaking idler pulley may be due to a pulley alignment issue. There is a TSB on this for the 204 chassis cars with the 272 engine, not sure if it applies to the ML vehicles. I still have the extra washers needed for the TSB, I can send them to you if you want.

Thanks, I’ll try to remember to post about it after I replace it. Held a stethoscope to each pulley - I hate doing that - couldn’t really notice anything suspicious about any of them, so I pulled the belt off and spun each one by hand. Top idler pulley seemed to grind and not turn as smooth as the others. I’m hoping that’s it.

I need to do a right front wheel bearing too by the sounds of it. Saw one done last week in my shop (I’m an automotive instructor), another teacher was doing it with some students...I said, don’t forget how to do this because I’m bringing mine in a few weeks.

 

[Wolf359]

Thanks, I’ll try to remember to post about it after I replace it. Held a stethoscope to each pulley - I hate doing that - couldn’t really notice anything suspicious about any of them, so I pulled the belt off and spun each one by hand. Top idler pulley seemed to grind and not turn as smooth as the others. I’m hoping that’s it.

I need to do a right front wheel bearing too by the sounds of it. Saw one done last week in my shop (I’m an automotive instructor), another teacher was doing it with some students...I said, don’t forget how to do this because I’m bringing mine in a few weeks.

Oh yeah, got 2 M272 engines. I've replaced tensioner and pulleys on both. One pulley had a washer and the other one didn't. Just replaced the intake manifold on one of them. Seems that if you don't replace the oil separator and oil breather cover, oil gets into the intake and gums up the flaps.