2010 Optima engine failure. 115k

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Something got in there. Reminds me of the cascading engine failures triggered by debris in the recent Corvette well-publicized problem:

"After bringing it back to Chevrolet HQ for inspection, the engineers determined that the likely cause was a piston connecting rod bearing that was damaged by debris in the oil that was left behind after tapping the threads for the oil filter. Once a piece gets jammed in there, it starts creating more debris, which keeps making things worse until finally … kablooey. In this case, it took out a few more pistons with it." http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2015/08/2...engine-problem/


Here's their recommendation: Several other engines built early in the production run exhibited similar problems, but Chevy is confident that it has solved the root issue. Nevertheless, it is now recommending that all Z06 owners change their oil after the 500-mile break-in period to make sure that it’s clear of any debris before any of it gets stirred up into the important parts during high-performance driving.

A mfg. recommending an early OCI.

 

[Nickdfresh]

Originally Posted By: camryrolla
go with relatively more reliable Japanese engines like Honda or Toyota.
Korean and German VW engines are junks.


B.S. I've seen dozens of engines from both nations that went over 200,000 miles. The South Korean stuff hasn't had any major issues since the early 2000's where a lot of them burned like tire-fire...

 

[gregk24]

Originally Posted By: camryrolla
go with relatively more reliable Japanese engines like Honda or Toyota.
Korean and German VW engines are junks.

I wouldn't say that. Some of the early Korean products had quality issues but they have improved dramatically.

 

[dblshock]

what a mess.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: camryrolla
go with relatively more reliable Japanese engines like Honda or Toyota.
Korean and German VW engines are junks.


Block porosity issues, VCM varnish, snapped camshafts, sludge..... Yeah, just the bastion of perfection there

All manufacturers mess up once in a while. Furthermore, we aren't even sure this was a manufacturing issue.

 

[SatinSilver]

Hi there Rich,

Thank you for sharing and nice pics. Glad to hear you could do the engine swap yourself which will save a ton of money. I kind of like sticking to the name brands for oil, the ones avail at Walmart. Prob should use a Kia oil filter since they seem to be picky with those.

 

[turnbowm]

Originally Posted By: gregk24
...Some of the early Korean products had quality issues but they have improved dramatically.


Yep, if KIA was total junk they wouldn't offer a 10yr/100,000mi drivetrain warranty. The 5yr/60,000mi bumper-to-bumper warranty is also an added plus.

 

[53' Stude]

I can't complain on Kia/Hyundai stuff. Most blown up ones I see are in order

1. Drain plug loose
2. Not enough oil in sump
3. Quick lube "consolidated" I.e. "Wrong filter"
4. Drain plug not in oil pan as it should be and no crush washer installed!!!!

 

[Pepsibottle1]

Wonder how the break in period went for this beast.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: camryrolla
go with relatively more reliable Japanese engines like Honda or Toyota.
Korean and German VW engines are junks.


Block porosity issues, VCM varnish, snapped camshafts, sludge..... Yeah, just the bastion of perfection there

All manufacturers mess up once in a while. Furthermore, we aren't even sure this was a manufacturing issue.

Don't forget transmission problems. Or rot.

 

[fdcg27]

Ouch!
Engine failures happen rarely these days.
I have no doubt that yours was destined for early failure the day it was built.
Maybe some guy dropped a piston and rod assembly on the floor and wiped it off on his shirt and figured it was fine. Who knows?
After all of these years, the Koreans may not have that quality control thing down yet.
I've seen people drive Hyundai and Daewoo vehicles to great mileages with nary a problem after 200K.
As lousy as the Chevy Aveo might have been, for example, that car could often see 200K unpleasant miles.
This isn't as typical as it is with the Japanese brands though, where this is expected.

 

[Run]

I'm shocked it still ran prior to the swap.

 

[JustinH]

Ok, so is this the 2.4L GDI engine?

I have found a few threads on the internet saying that Hyundai has two different dipsticks for this engine.

One has markings for a little under 5 quarts of oil, and one has markings for 5.25 quarts of oil.

The book says something like 4.8 quarts, I forget the exact number.

When I bought my car last month, I did the oil change myself using the hyundai filter, it was showing half a quart low when I put 4.8 quarts in it.

Sure enough 5.25 quarts brought it up to the top of the full mark.

So if they are having problems with some of these engines, maybe they are trying to save themselves some warranty jobs by putting more oil in the cars and swapping in new dipsticks.

I have read threads where hyundai dealers will put new sticks in the cars when the oil gets changed.

Also, I have read a lot of toyota manuals, but never a hyundai one until this car.

I have never seen anything so non-specific in my life.

The 2.4L GDI engine specs 5w20, 5w30, or 10w30 motor oil in pretty much all climates. And they recommend Quaker State.

Since this is a GDI engine and is tough on oil, I am running 5w30 chevron supreme at 4k intervals with hyundai filters and calling it a a day.

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: JustinH
Ok, so is this the 2.4L GDI engine?

I have found a few threads on the internet saying that Hyundai has two different dipsticks for this engine.

One has markings for a little under 5 quarts of oil, and one has markings for 5.25 quarts of oil.

The book says something like 4.8 quarts, I forget the exact number.

When I bought my car last month, I did the oil change myself using the hyundai filter, it was showing half a quart low when I put 4.8 quarts in it.

Sure enough 5.25 quarts brought it up to the top of the full mark.

So if they are having problems with some of these engines, maybe they are trying to save themselves some warranty jobs by putting more oil in the cars and swapping in new dipsticks.

I have read threads where hyundai dealers will put new sticks in the cars when the oil gets changed.

Also, I have read a lot of toyota manuals, but never a hyundai one until this car.

I have never seen anything so non-specific in my life.

The 2.4L GDI engine specs 5w20, 5w30, or 10w30 motor oil in pretty much all climates. And they recommend Quaker State.

Since this is a GDI engine and is tough on oil, I am running 5w30 chevron supreme at 4k intervals with hyundai filters and calling it a a day.
I believe 2011 was the first year for GDI.

 

[BrocLuno]

I suspect this was a lease return vehicle ... I also suspect it was driven like it was stolen for the first 20K ... It may have had dealer services, but it may have been run low in between and they just tossed a qt in so the dealer would not see it at service time ...

Do we have any of the PO history?

 

[cptbarkey]

Originally Posted By: camryrolla
go with relatively more reliable Japanese engines like Honda or Toyota.
Korean and German VW engines are junks.


You couldnt pay me to own a 98-02 V6 Honda anything. Or anything with a Honda VCT or single stage white paint.

 

[MarkM66]

A friend has a 2012 Optima with 60k miles and the engine locked up. Had a full sump of oil in it at the time with less than 1k miles on it.

 

[Errtt]

wow - my DD is a 2010 Hyundai 2.4L with 117+ on the clock.
Been doing 5k OCIs with Pennzoil Conventional (fill cap says 5w-20). Barley a drop in oil level during 5k (I just dump the whole jug in on the oil/filter change.
Cutting the filters (using OEM filters) always come out with no visual metals - and the OEM filters are of good quality (no tears or anything). There was a TSB on the filters (don't know what years covered).
I took it in earlier this years after I had surgery to get the plugs done @ 105k, and had them do the coolant anyway since it was there (coolant due 120k I think). They didn't up-sell me on anything and they didn't mentioned anything regards to the filter TSB or known 2.4L issues. No additional came up with their courtesy inspection.
It's mainly my to/from work SUV (2-hours a work day drive, 95%+ highway).
I was hoping to get 200k out of it

 

[WhizkidTN]

FWIW: I'm sitting at 56K miles on my '12 Optima SX (2.0L Turbo, ~17.5psi) with many bolt-on mods (no ECU tune yet). I'm pushing 300+HP@crank. The car is my DD and runs great. Bought new and treated her right. My used oil analysis are good. I've been very impressed with the overall quality of the car along with the engineering put into it. Car has always been run on Mobil 1 0W-40 oil and either the OEM filter (Mann) or the Purolator PureOne. OCI of 4K miles.