My brother is looking at a 2010 convertible Mustang. It has the 4.0 and a six speed auto. Is this a pretty good, long lasting, reliable powertrain with a good rep, or something he should avoid? Any recommendations would be appreciated.
2010 Ford 4.0 Any Good?
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From what I have heard is they are solid. I know tons of people that have the 4.0 in their ranger pickups and don’t have many issues at all. Assuming the mustangs are the same. However one issue that a few of them have had is with the timing chains. They are noisy and the gear broke on them. If it is a single over head cam then it isn’t an interference engine so if that does happen then it won’t do any damage to the engine itself.
The main issue with the 4.0 SOHC was with timing chain/hardware durability. 2010 would have been about the last year for that engine, IIRC. I would want to hear the engine started cold and at idle fully warmed up and listen for any evidence of rattling. You can definitely hear it if it's got problems. You want to avoid extended oil change intervals on these engines for that reason.
The 4.0l SOHC engine is an interference engine.
Starting in '98 with Explorers and 2000-2011 in Rangers.
The "weak" timing guides were revamped in '04.
Each bank has a tensioner which can unscrew. They're not the same part left and right.
It is recommended to change them at ~100K using Ford parts. I'm using Castrol 0w30 European in my '05.
Don't want dinosaur snot clogging my tensioners.
Also recommended is O2 sensor refreshment before 125K. They are the least expensive I've ever seen.
I don't know if that applies to the 'Stang.
Starting in '98 with Explorers and 2000-2011 in Rangers.
The "weak" timing guides were revamped in '04.
Each bank has a tensioner which can unscrew. They're not the same part left and right.
It is recommended to change them at ~100K using Ford parts. I'm using Castrol 0w30 European in my '05.
Don't want dinosaur snot clogging my tensioners.
Also recommended is O2 sensor refreshment before 125K. They are the least expensive I've ever seen.
I don't know if that applies to the 'Stang.
He said it has 100k on it and the car looks well cared for. He's going to definitely listen to it on a cold start and warm idle. He drove it wants and said it felt and sounded great, but he wasn't keyed in on listening to for the timing chain noise. But he also said there certainly wasn't anything obvious.
Any other input would be appreciated. If he pulls the trigger, it won't be until Saturday, which is when he'll go look at it again. I'll pass any advice right along to him.
Any other input would be appreciated. If he pulls the trigger, it won't be until Saturday, which is when he'll go look at it again. I'll pass any advice right along to him.
On most vehicles you have to pull the engine to get to the rear timing chain, BTW.
aren't these the ones with the plastic T-Stat housing that a couple vendors offer the alum replacements for as well?
So how big a job or expensive is changing the tensioners? If you have to remove the engine, then I'd say strike 3, this thing is out.
On these, yes. Bank 1 (passenger-cyls.1, 2 and 3) has the timing cassette in the rear.
The waste spark system results in the spark jumping from electrode to center on Bank 1 and center to electrode on Bank 2.
This necessitates the use of the Mororcraft Double Platinum plugs (SP 440 .061" to .068" gap).
Yes on the troublesome 'stat housing. There's a top half and bottom half and the bottom half ITSELF is what splits, not the seam between 'em.
The PO of my Ranger had had it replaced.
The aluminum replacement:simmonsautosportz.com part number SA9 (~$140).
Remember, there's an ECT sensor (5 volt) for the computer and a 12 volt one for the gauge.
Both are clipped into the 'stat housing. Don't mix 'em up.
Bank 2 tensioner is easy to see and unscrew. Bank 1 tensioner requires intake manifold upper half removal (not bad).
Can't keep up with you guys.....
Tell your friend.
The waste spark system results in the spark jumping from electrode to center on Bank 1 and center to electrode on Bank 2.
This necessitates the use of the Mororcraft Double Platinum plugs (SP 440 .061" to .068" gap).
Yes on the troublesome 'stat housing. There's a top half and bottom half and the bottom half ITSELF is what splits, not the seam between 'em.
The PO of my Ranger had had it replaced.
The aluminum replacement:simmonsautosportz.com part number SA9 (~$140).
Remember, there's an ECT sensor (5 volt) for the computer and a 12 volt one for the gauge.
Both are clipped into the 'stat housing. Don't mix 'em up.
Bank 2 tensioner is easy to see and unscrew. Bank 1 tensioner requires intake manifold upper half removal (not bad).
Can't keep up with you guys.....
Tell your friend.
Ok, Sounds like something I could possibly do. Mustang appears to me to have a reasonable amount of room to work back there. Not sure he would want to tackle it, though, and I won't have the time other than maybe to help a little. A guesstimate of the cost to have a shop do the tensioners? $500? $700? That'd be the route he'd be most likely to take. Appreciate the great and detailed info!
Chances are he would be closer to the 200K mark than 100K before he would be likely to need timing chain repairs. Not all of them develop serious issues. Our Explorers were all 2002 and older so I have no experience with the later years.
The Ford 4.0 SOHC got updated timing components somewhere around 2004 I believe. They are very reliable from that point up until it’s demise in 2011.
Previous years of the 4.0 SOHC were hit or miss with reliability. Some members here have well over 200,000 miles on their 4.0 SOHC with the first timing chain tensioner design.
Previous years of the 4.0 SOHC were hit or miss with reliability. Some members here have well over 200,000 miles on their 4.0 SOHC with the first timing chain tensioner design.
The tensioners have a spring in them to function before the oil pressure comes up. It's the spring which COULD break.
They weren't guaranteed to break. No sweat as you're not looking at a pre-'04 "Stang.
No telling what damage / accelerated wear was caused by average Joes' neglect.
The PO of my '05 changed the oil often. His oil never saw 3,000 miles nor was ever in service over a year.
My engine starts solid.
They weren't guaranteed to break. No sweat as you're not looking at a pre-'04 "Stang.
No telling what damage / accelerated wear was caused by average Joes' neglect.
The PO of my '05 changed the oil often. His oil never saw 3,000 miles nor was ever in service over a year.
My engine starts solid.
He said the care looks very well cared for, which is a good sign. Garage kept. I'll see if he's got oil change records, too. But even being a 2010, you recommend swapping out those tensioners, right? It is right at 100k.
So if all else looks/sounds good, I'm recommending he get those tensioners swapped out along with spark plugs, all of which need to be OEM parts. I'm also recommending to him a good Full Synthetic oil, probably a HM 5w30, and Fram ultras. If he changes spring and fall, he'll probably have 4 to 5k on it in the summer and probably 2500 over the winter, knowing his driving habits. I'm recommending he not exceed 5k.
He said there are no oil change records but just a clean Carfax and appearance of TLC. I will try and go with him if he looks at it again Saturday.
How many miles are on yours?
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That's what I've read from people I regard as knowledgeable, yes.
Again, they look alike but are slightly different. Ford parts only here.
Also, while you're at it, you can check the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve by unplugging it while idling a warmed up engine.
The engine should stumble or even die. That's good as it indicates no vacuum leaks. You can clean this valve if necessary.
If ever it fails NEVER use anything but a Ford or Hitachi replacement.
We know Saturday is a long time away but snap a few pics and continue this thread.
Again, they look alike but are slightly different. Ford parts only here.
Also, while you're at it, you can check the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve by unplugging it while idling a warmed up engine.
The engine should stumble or even die. That's good as it indicates no vacuum leaks. You can clean this valve if necessary.
If ever it fails NEVER use anything but a Ford or Hitachi replacement.
We know Saturday is a long time away but snap a few pics and continue this thread.
He says they are asking $8600 for it. 99,600 miles on it. This is the only pic at this point, from the advertisement.
Looks sexier with its top down than I do, for sure!
Since it is a Ford dealer, if I were him, I'd have them throw in the tensioner change, spark plugs, a transmission fluid change and coolant flush/fill and then he's probably got a good deal on a nice car. I really like the looks of that gen Mustang convertible. He wants it to cruise in on nice evenings and weekends with his wife. Looks like that'd fit the bill!
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Those housings break and leak like clockwork.
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Besides the t-stat housings,those 4.0 engines are awesome!!
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