200k Tundra 4.7

[RunFish]

Hello,
First time posting, but been reading the forums for awhile.

I have a 2005 Tundra 4.7 that just turned 200k. I have run Mobil 1 5w30 since 10k miles.(I've had it since it was new). I had been changing oil every 7500 miles or so. Was never to worried if it went a little longer.

Two years ago I moved to within 4 miles of where I work. So am now running some very short trips.

Somewhere over the last two years I started needing to add oil. It is down about a half quart over 5k. This is a bit disturbing, as it had never used a drop for the first 150k. I have moved to 5k oci.

Do short trips burn more oil? Just engine wear?

Should I go to 5w30 HM? 0W-40? (It looks like the 5w30 HM is almost as thick as the 0W-40?) The 5W-20 HM for faster flow on the short trips? Start with a 5qt jug of reg M1 and finish the fill with HM?

I'd really like to run this truck to 350-400k. At today's truck prices, I have to run this one as long as I can.

 

[tig1]

My 2007 Ford Fusion just turned 200K and still doesn't use any oil at 10K OCIs. Check to see if you have any oil seeping. Also replace the PVC valve. With that said, 1/2 qt in 5K is very good oil consumption.

 

[RichardS]

If you can find the leak, and get it reasonably clean, maybe flex-seal tape? I can't imagine it would make anything worse.

 

[RunFish]

I have not seen any signs of a leak. At least there is no oil spots on the concrete. Is the pcv valve a possibility? When I first started driving short trips, I seen some light foam looking stuff in my oil cap. That's when I went to shorter oci. Could that foam have clogged the pcv valve?

I will ask my machanic to check for any seepage next time he has it.

 

[RichardS]

please ignore my previous post, it belonged on another thread I had open at the same time regarding a leaking radiator.

 

[The motor guy]

That's not much to worry about. You'll burn a bit because the engine tolerances are looser when cold and 4 miles isn't going to heat much.

 

[Tomioka]

Impressive! I've got 158,000mi on my 01 Tundra but I don't do a lot of driving so it might be a while to reach 200K. Did you perform the 2nd timing belt change yet?

I would just change the PCV valve with a truck that old and it's about $20 for the recommended OEM part. I've pulled valve covers from various UZ engines and the driver's side valve cover always get gunked up by the PCV valve.

 

[Nick1994]

Don't worry about it, that's still very low consumption.

Your engine is getting a lot more hours on it per mile since it is doing short trips. Since short trips means slower speeds, that means over the course of 5,000 miles your engine has more "time" on it.

 

[RunFish]

Kibitsoshin,
I Just did the 2nd timing belt a month ago. Water pump as well while they where in there. Although I just read somewhere that someone had 400k on his original water pump in his Tacoma??? Maybe my thinking of always doing the pump when you do the belt is outdated?

I will change the PCV valve as the two of you have suggested. Should I do the hose as well while I'm at it?

 

[RunFish]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Don't worry about it, that's still very low consumption.

Your engine is getting a lot more hours on it per mile since it is doing short trips. Since short trips means slower speeds, that means over the course of 5,000 miles your engine has more "time" on it.


Thanks,
You and madman do make me feel better. I hadn't thought of the total miles run cold now vs before. I was beginning to think I was using the wrong oil. (I have read so much Mobil 1 bashing on here.)

So, probably no need to switch to thicker, or high mileage oil if the motor has seen all synthetic since break in?

 

[SilverC6]

I wouldn't sweat it.

That's very low consumption for a truck of that age.

Imagine you just bought this well used truck and it only used 1/2 quart in 5,000 miles.

You'd be very pleased.

But you could experiment with other oils and different grades if it continues to bother you. Maybe a 10w30, either M1 or a high quality conventional like PYB or Mobil Super.

 

[Tomioka]

Originally Posted By: RunFish
I will change the PCV valve as the two of you have suggested. Should I do the hose as well while I'm at it?


I would pick up 3ft of PCV/Emissions hose because they have become brittle and just trying to remove the hose from the barb will crack the hose ends.

 

[CR94]

Originally Posted By: Kibitoshin
... I would pick up 3ft of PCV/Emissions hose because they have become brittle and just trying to remove the hose from the barb will crack the hose ends.
Yes. That's roughly what happened to me, albeit at over twice the mileage. Started to move the old brittle PCV hose aside as usual to add oil on a cold day, and it snapped in half. Uh-oh! Luckily a spare piece of 3/8" fuel hose with a plastic 90° elbow sufficed as a substitute.

 

[Nickdfresh]

Half a quart in 5,000 miles is nothing to worry about, and it might just be a temporary tick (i.e. if you do a lot of short tripping for a long time, then go on a long road trip you might be burning condensation that has built up rather than more oil than you previously were in extended highway driving). But if you like Mobil 1 try the high mileage 5w30, or the Platinum HM equivalent...

Maybe by 400K you'll be using a full qt., but then who cares as that is still not that bad...