2009 Kia Sedona - front brake dust shields

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Guys, I'm looking for advice here. The dust shields behind the front rotors are rusted away badly, and were rubbing on the hub, making a terrible noise. I bought new ones from the dealer, and have taken the passenger side apart. The knuckle/hub assembly is now attached only by the ABS sensor wire. I have the knuckle propped up on wood to relieve the tension on the wire. (It was a bit of a deal to get this far - I removed the wheel, the caliper, the caliper mounting bracket, the rotor, the spindle nut, and the lower control arm. The knuckle is now separated from the outer tie rod end and the strut. The plan for tomorrow is to take out the three big (I think they're 17 mm) bolts on the back of the hub assembly, which I hope will allow access to the dust shield. (I was running out of daylight, so had to pack it in for the evening.) If not, then I have to decide whether to press out the bearing, which I imagine will destroy it. The bearing hub assembly is pricey - the SKF unit is C$242.47 per side from Rock Auto, and likely costlier from NAPA here. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/kia,...b+assembly,1636 The van has about 117K km on it (c. 73K miles), so normally I would expect a lot more years out of the bearings. So my question is whether it's worth it to proceed if doing so involves a lot more work and money to replace the bearings. I'm not sure exactly what purpose the dust shields serve, but figure they're there for a reason. One alternative is to replace them without splitting the hub and bearing, by modifying the dust shield. This gentleman shows how: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=combbON_ZmY That method is not my first choice, but I would consider it. I'm glad I went ahead with this work so far, because I will clean up the bolts with a die, and will anti-seize everything. Then I'll have assurance that if I ever do have to replace the LCA or wheel bearings, things will come apart OK. (Some of you may remember the fun I had removing the seized-in splined axle shaft from the hub of our Mazda 5 last year, to be able to replace the LCA. I was so glad the Kia wasn't seized.) Thanks in advance to all who can offer advice.
 
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Originally Posted By: Number_35
I will clean up the bolts with a die,
No need for that, just anti sieze them. If you really want to fix the threads, get a thread restorer kit. Wire brush/wheel is good enough if the threads are not damaged A normal die will remove material and make the bolts all sloppy. I wouldn't pull the bearings, personally. If you can get the bearings and press them in and out, sure. I have the astro pneumatic master fwd bearing kit and it is schweet. Makes that job ez and is cheap on amazon.
 
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the dust shield keeps road splash off your brakes - to prevent a reduction or loss in braking due to water/grease on the rotors. I would not replace the bearings unless they are loose. certainly any part, including bearings, can fail at anytime. are you the original owner? I had one mechanic tell me that one a wheel takes a good side hit, like sliding into the curb in the winter, the bearings days are numbered.
 

JC1

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What model of van is this? I can anticipate you having plenty of issues with rusty parts. I didn't watch that video you posted, bit I would try and mcgiver something as opposed to trying to get stuff apart. If you've never done a wheel bearing (I did a Sienna's twice it's a real pain and you may need a press to get the bearing in), you'll be spending a lot of time to fix this dust shield. What about using pop rivets to sister up a second piece of metal behind the first dust shield? (Didn't watch the video so sorry in advance if it's giving similar advice).
 
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Good luck. On my Accent you have to take the hub apart to get the dust shield off, one of the dumbest ideas I've yet seen on a Hyundai. They are more heat shields to protect the rubber boot on the tie rod end. On past road race/street cars I would remove them for the additional cooling.
 

Number_35

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Originally Posted By: JC1
What model of van is this? I can anticipate you having plenty of issues with rusty parts. I didn't watch that video you posted, bit I would try and mcgiver something as opposed to trying to get stuff apart. If you've never done a wheel bearing (I did a Sienna's twice it's a real pain and you may need a press to get the bearing in), you'll be spending a lot of time to fix this dust shield. What about using pop rivets to sister up a second piece of metal behind the first dust shield? (Didn't watch the video so sorry in advance if it's giving similar advice).
The Kia's actually been pretty good - no seized parts so far. We bought it not quite two years ago, and to pass the safety the seller had had to replace the LCAs, which might be why they came out fairly easily. I'm glad I took it apart anyway - the ball joint was tricky to separate from the knuckle, and might not have come out in a couple of years. I replaced a front wheel bearing on our Mazda 5 last summer, which is where I got the idea that it might not be possible to press out the bearing and then reuse it. You're right, it was a royal pain. I'm open to work-arounds - I like the pop rivet idea.
 

Number_35

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Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Good luck. On my Accent you have to take the hub apart to get the dust shield off, one of the dumbest ideas I've yet seen on a Hyundai. They are more heat shields to protect the rubber boot on the tie rod end. On past road race/street cars I would remove them for the additional cooling.
This is my fear. I'll get back to it this morning, so should know soon.
 

Number_35

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Originally Posted By: Trav
From what I see its a bolt in hub no pressing required, it doesn't seem too dramatic.
Trav, per this video you're correct: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slFVYlUlB7w Rats, I had it all apart, and had the three bolts out, but could not separate it - but would have tried harder had it not appeared to be not designed to come apart. (The seller had the LCAs replaced before we bought the van so it could be saftied, but did not replace the badly-rusted dust shields while in there. That led me to believe that the bearings had to be pressed out to remove the hub.) It's now about half back together, but I should be able to redo the work to that point easily. I did not remove the knuckle completely because I didn't want to damage the ABS sensor - removed the 10 mm bolt fine, but didn't want to pry too hard on the sensor itself. No matter, it looks like the hub can be popped off with the knuckle on the vehicle once the three big bolts are removed. The only issue will be whether the hub is welded to the knuckle with rust.
 

JC1

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Sometimes those abs sensor wires have a clip that is hidden under the front plastic wheel well shields. Broke one in my Sienna when I was doing the wheel bearing. The not for that sensor snapped when I went to remove it. Had to drill out the remainder carefully with drill bits until most of it was out. I did that with the whole knuckle removed and used a vice mounted on a table. They are not quick jobs I'm sure Trav would be 10 times faster than us for most of these jobs based on his experience level.
 
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The ABS sensor has a plug on the end where it attaches to the harness and a small bolt or two holding it somewhere, probably to the knuckle, the clip holding it pulls out. Edit: Just follow the sensor wire up till you get to the plug, it may be in the engine compartment.
 
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Number_35

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Well, I've given up for now. The hub is solidly rusted onto the steering knuckle, and I was unable to remove it without removing the knuckle. I tried reinstalling one of the 19 mm bolts part way and beating on it from the back, applied lots of penetrating oil, and tried to get an air chisel in between the knuckle and hub, all to no avail. Unfortunately, the ABS sensor is seized into the knuckle, and I didn't feel like removing the fender liner to try to find the connection point @ the main harness. I'll live with the ratty dust shield for now, and replace it when the wheel bearing forces me to go in there again. I really wanted to get the van back together today, but could probably now get back to the same point of disassembly in less than an hour. On the upside - everything else came apart eventually, and is now anti-seized for next time. I discovered that the ball joints have grease nipples, and so greased them. I used the needle attachment to shoot a bit of extra grease into the outer tie rod end. I used rubber protectant liberally on all rubber fittings - grease cups on the balls joint and tie rod end, CV boot, and LCA bushings. Everything went back together well with no missing or leftover parts. Photos to follow. Thanks to everyone who provided help.
 

Number_35

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In the beginning ... Asian cars often use a thin-walled axle nut that is punched into a groove in the axle spindle, instead of a castlated nut & cotter. The wall of the nut is driven out with a punch before the nut is loosened. "Give me a place to stand and I shall move the Earth." - Archimedes In this case, a length of chain-link fence post slipped over a breaker bar attached to the 35 mm socket on the axle nut did the job.
 

Number_35

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After removing the two 14 mm bolts that hold the caliper in place, I pried the caliper out with a long blade screwdriver: Besides the hydraulic jack, I had two jackstands in place: The caliper is suspended from the strut's coil spring so that the brake line is not stressed. Removing the caliper mounting-bracket bolts: Here are the parts removed so far, unlikely to escape from a Home Depot bucket - six lug nuts, the two caliper bolts, the two caliper bracket bolts, and the caliper bracket c/w brake pads:
 

Number_35

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Kia used two Phillips screws, countersunk into the rotor, to hold it in place - nice touch. This is why I wanted to replace the dust shield: The rotor came off easily, likely because I'd replaced it last year. Notice how the dust shield is sandwiched between the hub and the steering knuckle: Rats! One of my favourite tools, specially for pushing the spindle out of the hub, doesn't fit the Kia! Plan B - the ancient 2-arm Craftsman puller does fit OK ... ... and does the job. This is a fine little tool - it pops the tie rod end out without damaging the boot as pickle fork might have:
 

Number_35

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More working room with the LCA removed, but in retrospect I don't think it was absolutely necessary. Here's the knuckle/hub assembly, now attached to the vehicle only by the ABS conductor: Here's the back of the knuckle with the three 19 mm bolts removed. At this point the hub should have almost jumped out of the knuckle by itself. wink You can see the ABS sensor embedded in the knuckle - I don't think it will come out in one piece: Here's the rusty dust cover, sandwiched between the steering knuckle and the hub. Why didn't they just bolt the dust cover to the knuckle? Oh well ..
 

Number_35

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Thanks Max, you have a good eye - almost all of my surviving old tools are Craftsman. They were pretty good back in the day. As far as using a puller, I'm afraid of destroying the expensive hub/bearing assembly.
 
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