2008 Scion Xb 2AZ-FE Need some advice

Joined
Mar 10, 2014
Messages
30
Location
Rochester NY
Hi Guys,

Long time lurker and first time poster,

My fiancée and I just acquired a new to us 2008 Scion XB for her back in November, The previous women who owned before she traded it in for a Nissan, Took very good care of it!

We got it with 80k miles exactly, The car is very quiet and didn't seem to use any oil which is sorta known with this engine,

The Nissan dealer I bought it from, claimed to use OEM filters for it but I haven't gotten underneath to check it out, Nor do I know what brand or weight they are using either. I went back for another since it's been very cold out and we seem to have snow every single day so I haven't been able to perform my own Oil Change.

The engine is now at 89k with 5k oil changes, the first one at the dealer was performed at 84k before we went on a long trip and it stayed golden with no consumption. This time at 89k there seems to be about a 1/4 quart missing before the 5k mile oil change I am about to perform and it seems to be the beautiful golden yellow still.

I will be performing a UOA for this last run, I don't know what to expect but hope to hear good news! The car isn't babied but driven highway 60% 40%traffic all winter long and is warmed up before it's redlined. Since then I have added a DC Sports short ram intake along with a new AFE Pro Dry S filter instead of the original oiled filter so hopefully I'll have good reports on silicon.


Like I said, I don't know if it was 0w20 or 5w20 that they used, I don't even know it's dino or synthetic that they have at the Nissan Dealer.

I wanted to know if you guys recommend me go with PP or Mobil 1? I prefer to stick with 0w20 and PP is in stock at my local walmart for 25 dollars, while Advance auto has a M1 EP filter and 5w20 M1 for 35.99

I can get a Purolator pureone with a coupon for 5.00 and the PP 0w20 for 25 so I figured the math it's a better deal to go with the former.

Also I was debating on an OEM Toyota filter over the Pureone for the 5k OCI, Should I stick with the Pureone?

One more question as well, I looked up BITOG and I know to not be alarmed that PP will turn the oil black due to it's "cleaning" the first run and also people have experienced a lot of consumption the first few runs is that true? Does it stop eventually?

Thanks guys.
 
First off Welcome to the forum! I'd use the Toyota filter..i was quoted 7$ from my dealer..im betting you can get it for 5-6. Or Fram Ultra if you plan to extend your OCI's. PP, M1 will both work fine. No point in going to M1 EP unless extending OCI.

If you look at the oil filter part of the site you will see some purolator filters are ripping so something to keep in mind.

I never heard of Pennz turning oil black as something common..but likely due to additives/cleaning. Consumption is nothing to worry about run PP or M1 a few times and see how it works for you. 5k mile changes is very reasonable and you wont have any issues.
 
It calls for 5w20 or 0w20. From what I've seen, the efficiency of the factory Toyota filters isn't all that good, unless you can get your hands on the Japanese made ones with the weird, foam looking material. I've been using frsm tough guard filters on mine without issue. Given the age of yours, I'd recommend changing the coolant. These engines previously had an issue with the rear head bolts snapping, but this was supposedly fixed a while back, I just don't remember when. Also, keep an eye out for a pink line on the underside of your hood. The water pumps are known to leak on them and then the belt slings the coolant onto the hood and it makes a pink colored crust when it dry's. Interested to see what your uoa looks like with the intake on it. I've never cared for the way the air box and air filter fit together and have often thought about getting an intake kit just for that fact. As far as engine oil, I've run valvoline next Gen 5w20, synpower 5w20, qsud 5w30, maxlife 10w30, FRAM syn. 5w20, pyb 5w20, and currently have pyb 10w30 in it. Off all those, its run the quietest on the maxlife and pyb, but that maybe due to the increased viscosity too. I don't know what yours sounds like, but my valvetrain is pretty noisy on the other oils, and its got piston slap when cold on all the oils. If you look your scion up on the different oil companies European or Australian sites, or another Toyota of the same year with the same engine, you'll see they actually call for 5w30, 10w30, or in the case of Mobil 1, they recommend their own 0w40. So I'd say run pretty much what ever you want in it since your out of warranty.
 
PP or M1 for 5,000 miles? It's not really going to matter. Really anything from 0w-20 to 10w-30 would be fine, though in your climate thinner would probably be better.

These engines are pretty reliable, save a few headbolt thread issues that seem to be fairly random and more likely in the earlier US made blocks. While you will find reports of consumption you have to consider just how many of these were made and what the average user would have been. It doesn't seem to be any better or worse than anything else. I would say the valvetrain is loud and a mess to adjust compared to the Honda's I'm used to.

Mine doesn't use a noticeable amount in 5000 miles at around 112,000. I use whatever oil I can get free after rebate. I fill my SUV with my kids and dog, and tow on top of that. I doubt you work yours as hard as I do simply because mine has another 1000 lbs it has to deal with.

To be honest, you should drain/fill the tranny if it's an auto and just buy whatever of those two oils you've considered.

EDIT: The coolant recommendation above is a good one, if not right away than something a little ways down the road. Toyota pink from the dealer, or zerex asian, or flush and Peak Global Lifetime would all be options. Also, my plugs last fall I replaced with the exact same as OEM but the original plugs didn't look bad at all, IMO you can wait until the actual recommendation on that.
 
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there is nothing special about the engine, its been around for years, since 2003 in fact in camry guise. use any SN/SM 0w20, 5w20, or 5w30, with any filter that costs over $2 and drive it until you are bored to death because it will outlive your interest.
 
That's right, it was an issue with the rear headbolts pulling the threads out of the block, not the bolts actually snapping. It was in the area where there is insulating foam between the intake manifold and the block.
 
Thanks for the warm welcome everyone!

Rolla-I've been debating about the OEM filter vs the Pureone, I can't seem to find anything about the filters ripping internally? I would prefer to run the Japanese made Toyota one instead of the made in Thailand version due to the filter material.

Afoulk- I haven't changed the coolant but it hasn't shown any signs of leakage and coolant levels haven't changed. I check every time I add windshield washer fluid or check my oil, As far as the intake goes, I say go for it! Mine is the 4spd auto and I'm sure you know they aren't too slow. I came from a E39 M5 that we traded in for this and I was quite surprised by how snappy and how much torque it had! I the reason I added the intake was for more top end power and I wanted better gas mileage.

Before the intake, with my driving style I averaged 24 mpg with the winter blend gas and before 27mpg before it got very cold. Now after the intake I am coasting along at 26mpg just from the intake and same driving style. The oem filter was brand new and when I swapped intakes the throttle body was spotless.

Hopefully once it warms up more and I'm hoping to get closer to 30mpg with the auto. I do like the noise it produces but only when I do get on it, it sounds louder. Other than that no drama or fuss and it's been dynoed to add roughly 10whp and 11wtq with the same setup I have now. I like the extra power and better mpg.

Also as far as noise goes for the engine, It's very quiet and only when it sits overnight below 30 degree's I'll hear the valves until it warms up before full operating temp. Hopefully the 0w20 will remedy this.

Bepperb- I will be replacing the coolant next month with the OEM ToyotaPink
for the tranny I'll use Toyota ws fluid but I would really like to see what other's think about the Amsoil WS? I'll be doing 3 drain and fills. I checked the tranny fluid and it's a dark pink/red and smells like tranny fluid no burning. Like I said this was a one owner car that the previous owner mainly drove on the highway. I'll most likely will replace the plugs @ 100k vs the recommended 120k just so I can open up the v/c to see how well the PP will clean it. It looks good so far from the oil cap.

So I decided on the 0w20 PP but as far as filters go, What should I use? I will be waiting until blackstone sends me my UOA to do a extended OCI. So in the meantime I'll be sticking with the 5k unless they decide otherwise with the results.
 
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Yeah, I don't think they're all that slow, kinda peppy actually, but I'm coming from an 08 jeep wrangler unlimited with an auto and 33's, so anything seems quick compared to that:) my current xb is 5spd, but I had a 2011 auto before this one. If I had it to do all over, I'd have stuck with the auto, this is one of the worst shifting 5spds ever, and there's plenty of complaints on the scion forums to back me up. I forgot to mention, you might want to replace the pcv valve too just for good measure. They're only a few bucks at the dealer and easy to do. And given the current issues with purolators oil filters (see the oil filter section of this forum) Id stay away from them till they get their ac under control. That's why I've been using FRAM tough guards.
 
Oh, and I was able to hit 30mpg with my auto on two separate occasions, but that was using mainly country roads. The aerodynamics hurt the autos out on the highway. I've never done better than 29mpg with my 5spd, mostly because they're geared lower than the autos
 
I will be going with the oem filter I guess, I'm sure it'll be fine until I choose to go with an extended oci but I would like to wait and see what the uoa says, does anyone know how long is the turn around time for them get you results?

I'll be sending it out over the weekend, as far as the pcv goes I'll just grab one at the dealer then. Thanks for the heads up!

I found that if I drive 60 I can get 28 29 all day long but I'm usually cruising around 74or 75 before the intake. Takes too much patience for me to hypermill haha
 
That's what I've found with mine as well, I get the best mileage going 60mph or slower. I have a hard time forcing myself to do it though
 
Have you considered using a Wix or Baldwin filter? They seem to get consistent high scores on the filter subforum.

The oil was changed regularly, but when was the CVT fluid, Power Steering fluid, brake fluid, and antifreeze replaced? I often encounter people who will change their oil on time, but ignore the other fluids, especially antifreeze.
 
Artificialist- I haven't considered that, I looked on Napa's website and didn't see any wix filters listed nor Baldwin, I decided that OEM will be the way to go first and see what the UOA says in a couple of runs.

The car was maintained on a clockwork schedule, I have all the listed maintenance work that was done on the car at the dealership. The coolant is scheduled to be changed at 100k and looks like the transmission non CVT fluid was drained and filter replaced at 60k. I will be doing a UOA on that as well. The brake fluid was flushed when the dealer that I bought the car from put new rotors and pads front and back on also performed the brake flush before me purchasing the car and oil change. According to the paperwork from the previous owner, the air filter was changed every 12k mikes and cabin air filter every 25k. The car doesn't use conventional power steering fluid, it has electric power steering.

So I'm very up to date on what has happened from the previous one owner, the car's OEM alpine navigation said that it's been out of state to boston at least 3 times from the previous history and from the average speed on the gps she didn't drive it fast.

Hopefully this should last us a very long time
 
I wonder what is in PP that makes it clean any different/better than any other oil?
 
I recommend emphatically that you only use VW 507 oil in your XB.
Consider yourself fortunate that you have a chance to nip the oil consumption issue in the bud.
Clean piston rings for the win.
 
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