2008 Hyundai Accent 1.6 oil loss

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Nov 26, 2012
Messages
47
Location
Canada
My GF's Accent is, for lack of other theories, burning oil. Since it has had about 105000Km, I've notice oil loss on the dipstick. Around that milage, I changed the spark plugs. One of them was a bit oily from the top. I thought nothing of it.
The oil loss got progressively worst. It's my GF's car and she dosen't always check the oil level when filling gaz. The mitigation solution was to "try" to check more often and add oil as needed. Many oil changes, never saw oil leaks but unregular oil loss. No blue smoke. No puff on startup. Coolant was clean the 2 times it got changed (75000Km and 125000Km).

Had several CEL happen when very cold for 2y. End of march 2016, 129000KM, it got rainy and humid, car wouldn't start. Would turn and get some fire but not enough to start. Since I had gotten missfire codes before and reading on forums, I decided to order some coils and sparkplugs. 2 of the spark plug tubes were very oily. Had the valve cover gasket and spark plugs oil tube seals changed. The PCV was changed as well. I changed the oil at 130000Km and now it's 133000Km, there was a quart missing when I checked it (spot on at the L mark on the dipstick).

We've had that car since it was 3yo/33000Km from the dealer. It's been dealer maintained (with proof) for the first 3 years of it's life by previous owner. Since we got it, I was very meticulous with lubrications. Oil changes every 8000Km (as opposed to Hyundai's 6000Km), always using synthetics 5w20-5w30 (QSUD, PP, VSP, Castrol Syntec, generally a mix of those, spare oils from my other car). The only non synthetics oil used are for make up fills - generally QSAD 5w30. Using Hyundai OEM filter for those who care.

Car operates normally. No studder. Fuel economy is unchanged from when we got it - hovering between 6.3L-7.8L/100Km depending on time of year and cold. Operating conditions are between -35C and 35C.

Still can't find leaks. Can't detect smoke on the tail pipe. Car is white, bumper is clean. Should I think of using HM oil? If so, which?

WM, Canadian Tire and NAPA are the store I have access to. So QS Defy, Valvoline ML (red bottle) and Castrol GTX HM are the ones are available to me for sure. Which one is best and why.
 
Yes, by all means top off and start using an HM oil like MaxLife. Change the pcv valve as well. Get some Gumout Regane Fuel System cleaner as well.
 
PCV was changed at 129000Km
Mostly using top tier gazoline (esso, pétro-canada, shell).
Did do 3-4 Regane fuel system cleaner since we got the car.
 
I had an 01 accent and ironically had same issues you are having now. Check engine lights, clutch needed replacing, no smoke but oil was being burned. So many issues with that car I got rid of it. Had about 175,000kms on it.

In your case id dump in a thick HM conventional oil and drive it into the ground. Start saving for another car..
 
Cluster5,
Just add a quart of dextron to the oil and drive till oil need to be changed. Then flush engine with Liqui Moly engine flush. Use any mineral group II oil, even Maxlife, but I don't like it. Keep top off by dextron, if no more than a quart is required. You will forget about oil burning shortly.
And don't extend oci.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
I had an 01 accent and ironically had same issues you are having now. Check engine lights, clutch needed replacing, no smoke but oil was being burned. So many issues with that car I got rid of it. Had about 175,000kms on it.

In your case id dump in a thick HM conventional oil and drive it into the ground. Start saving for another car..

So far, it's been very cheap to maintain. Other than the missfire CEL which appear to be caused by oil leaking on the plugs and the mysterious oil burning. Nothing else "broke". It's been cheap to buy and cheap to maintain.

I'm going to try MaxLife red bottle at next OCI 5w30. Make up oil will remain 5w30 QSAD as I have a 5L jug to pass.

I couldn't find VOA on ML 5W30 and 10W30, I'd like to compare kinectic viscosity in multiple temps.
 
My '08 Accent would burn a qt every 3500 miles when new. It now has 140k on it and using 5w30 M1 HM the oil use is about a 1/2 qt per 7500 miles.
 
Originally Posted By: timeau
Cluster5,
Just add a quart of dextron to the oil and drive till oil need to be changed. Then flush engine with Liqui Moly engine flush. Use any mineral group II oil, even Maxlife, but I don't like it. Keep top off by dextron, if no more than a quart is required. You will forget about oil burning shortly.
And don't extend oci.

Interestingly, your story seems to check out.
When looking in top of the valve cover, everything was very clean. Been using very good oil.

Hyundai canadian OCI are half of the american ones (3750miles vs 7500) hence why I made them slightly longer.
 
Old thread revived.

Update:
* Car is currently at 150KKM.
* Still using oil.
* Oil usage varies and is still unpredictable. (700ML / 1000KM to 700ML / 3000KM)
* Did 2 oil changes using Valvoline Maxlife 5w30.
* Top off oil is a mix of mostly QSGB 5w30 and some VWB 10w30.

I'm thinking of using half a QT of Lucas Oil Stabiliser at next oil change. What is the thoughts/opinions on this product?
https://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil-additives/heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer
 
That Lucas stuff is like pouring a blob into your engine. I would never use it. Maxlife and other HM oils sometimes take a couple of oci before effects are noticed. I would stick with the Maxlife including the top off.

Stay away from additives like Lucas.
 
Have it checked man, look like there's a far more serious issue. Valvoline Maxlife 5W30 is quite good and hopefully it made some improvements.
 
Originally Posted By: ndfergy
I would have your EGR system checked out for a sticking valve or faulty solenoid.


Just to clarify: obviously you're burning oil at a variable rate with, I presume, the same driving conditions. You're not seeing any blue smoke at start up so there's no leakage through the valves after shut down. However, that doesn't mean they're not leaking more than usual during operation with increased combustion pressures. If your EGR valve is not opening or not opening fully the increased combustion temperatures could exacerbate this problem. The engines PCM might be compensating for this so you're not noticing any performance issues.

On the other hand, it could be normal wear and tear but you did mention a CEL in your post.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top