2008 Cadillac DTS reliability

E

Enthusiast

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Feb 5, 2023
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How reliable is or isn't the DTS in 2008? I know some claim that after 2005 the Northstar didn't have head gasket issues anymore. Did they strengthen the head bolts or do anything else that would prove the problem was fixed? Please let me know any problems to know about.
 
I know the later models used a cam timing sensor that retarded the timing when it detected spark knock so you could run 87 octane. Not exactly sure what all they did to the northstar but I know towards the later years they configured it for rear wheel drive use. I'd opt for the second generation of northstar engines that I believe were around 320hp. But the 3.6L V6 is what won out replacing the Northstar.

My 98' Eldorado ETC popped its top 1300 miles from home.
 
The N* in those years was a reliable engine that delivered good power and fuel economy for a car that size. I have owned 2 of them over the years, one a 5 year old used and an 06 I bought new and you can call me a fan of the engine.
 
My '08 was running fine at 173k when I sold it. Saw a few over 300k used as limos.

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Thank you all who responded. I have an additional question given my family's bad luck with GM. At this point, how solid are the electronics supporting the engine like the oxygen sensors, crank position sensor, coils, etc. I asked this because my family has had more than one 3800 which developed a problem right after 100k miles that 4 mechanics couldn't figure out where it would run on only 4 of 6 cylinders. I know these engines are not related other than they're made by the same company especially given that we're talking about the difference between overhead cam for valve for cylinder versus a two valve push rod. I just want to make sure I'm not walking into the same problem again. (I'm only considering this because I am getting desperate for a comfortable car).
 
Enthusiast said:
Thank you all who responded. I have an additional question given my family's bad luck with GM. At this point, how solid are the electronics supporting the engine like the oxygen sensors, crank position sensor, coils, etc. I asked this because my family has had more than one 3800 which developed a problem right after 100k miles that 4 mechanics couldn't figure out where it would run on only 4 of 6 cylinders. I know these engines are not related other than they're made by the same company especially given that we're talking about the difference between overhead cam for valve for cylinder versus a two valve push rod. I just want to make sure I'm not walking into the same problem again. (I'm only considering this because I am getting desperate for a comfortable car).
Click to expand...
Standard GM fair, Coils and various other items are similar quite possibly the same as other GM models from that time period. It is a 15 year old car, you may need to do an oxygen sensor or coil on any car of that vintage by this point. I have a 24 year old LS1, 19 year old 3800 and a 21 year old GMC and have none of those issues. Biggest problem was a faulty injector on the LS1 powered Trans Am.

Also if your mechanic couldn't figure out one of the most common problems on a 3800...You may need to find a different one. It is almost always the ICM when it does that. The coils sit right on top of it. Heat kills it. That is a super easy engine to troubleshoot.
 
Not one mechanic but 4 different mechanics before it safely drove it home, then traded it off! The last thing done was cleaning the crank position sensor. I appreciate the advice, if I like the car that's the first thing I will do
 
Being an evolution of the previous fwd cars, these DTS's were well sorted by this 2006+ generation. Doesn't mean it'll be trouble free, but no real glaring inherent problems with them.
 
I had a 2008 DTS and it was fine. I have been told that as long as the coolant is changed every 5 years, the engine will be fine. I never had an issue with the two Northstars that I owned, the other one being a 1999 STS. I put 99,000 miles on the STS.
The STS was the better driving car at highway speeds for me, since it had lower gearing overall and a different cam. 60 to 95 passing maneuvers were phenomenal. I also installed a front shock tower brace on that one, from an Eldorardo ETC, THAT made a world of difference in ride and stability. It also got better fuel economy that my other Northstar, which was the 2008 DTS. I know it sounds counter-intuitive, but it worked.
The DTS DEFINITELY had the better seats. People would comment when they sat in that passenger seat!
The first rule of buying a Northstar is the have the coolant checked for exhaust gasses. The second rule is to make sure that the air eliminator line from the throttle body to the coolant reservoir is open and flowing freely with no air bubbles.
The third rule is to drive it like you stole it! Don't baby that engine.
 
Enthusiast said:
Not one mechanic but 4 different mechanics before it safely drove it home, then traded it off! The last thing done was cleaning the crank position sensor. I appreciate the advice, if I like the car that's the first thing I will do
Click to expand...
Not many great mechanics out there.

I don't like that era car. As a young man, I thought these were silly, but after time behind the wheel and under the hood. I like the 1989 FWD Coupe HT-4500 with TBI. Super comfortable, roomy pleasant and easy to drive car, Hard torque hit right off idle. Main issue would be the idle control motor loosing it reference. Then possibly wroing coolant used at first service for the AL block. Conveniently, here you have the in-car GM/Caddy on-dash OBD readout, No need for an ALDL port dongle,

But possibly too oldie-moldy for your reliability concerns?

Low but Comfy Seats!

1987_Cadillac_Coupe_Deville__Spring_Special_Edition_.jpg
 
^Not only that but I would also be concerned about safety. I don't mind having a not very safe car for fair weather driving, but a daily driver needs to be safer than that one.

I appreciate everyone's advice.
 
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