2007 Q-Link Commuter 250 scooter

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It's a Honda Helix clone, a water-cooled 244cc single, no filter, 10,280 miles on it at the time of the oil change. It's the first change since purchase, so oil type and miles are a bit of a guess...though I think it's 10W-40 Kendall.

Aluminum - 5
Chromium - 1
Iron - 17
Copper - 4
Lead - 6
Tin - 0
Moly - 21
Nickel - 0
Manganese - 1
Silver - 0
Titanium - 29
Potassium - 2
Boron - 73
Sodium - 9
Silicon - 5
Calcium - 2236
Magnesium - 8
Phosphorus - 850
Zinc - 1010
Barium - 1

SUS Vis @ 210F - 63.5
cST Viscosity @ 100C - 11.20
Flashpoint - 390
Fuel% - Antifreeze% - 0
Water% - 0
Insolubles - 0.3

Blackstone's notes:
We haven't seen any Q-Link Commuters before, so we started a new average file, but used Honda averages just for comparison purposes. As we see more samples, our average file will build and we'll know a little more about these engines, but for now there's nothing that stands out as a serious concern. Iron and
lead might be a little elevated, possibly showing some bearing wear, but assuming the engine runs well, we'll just watch these readings and see where they go from here. They might be perfectly okay for this engine. No contamination was found.
 
Wow!! That's crazy!! The oil had been in service for six years and 10k miles and this UOA shows no problems with this Chinese clone engine. Amazing!!

I change the oil in my 1986 Elite 250 (same engine) every 1000 miles or each fall....whatever comes first. I use Mobil 1 0w40 or 5w50.
 
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
Uhh...WHAT??????????????


I read and replied to this on my phone. Now I'm on my computer. I misunderstood what you said.

I thought you meant you bought this new in 2007, and this is the first oil change....that this is the factory fill!!

My bad. Disregard my post. I'm an idiot!!!

I think an HDEO is a good idea. If you are going to ride when it's cold, it's probably a good idea though to get a synthetic....like Rotella T6 for better flow. Or just run Mobil 1 0w40. But if you aren't going to be running it in the cold, you'll be okay with 15w40 dino.

I know from experience that thick oil can cause excessive hard starts in the cold, causing poor lubrication/engine wear and a lot of wear and tear on your starter....and you better have a good battery cranking that thing over in the cold if you are gonna run a conventional HDEO.

On my Elite, it has no kick start. So if you crank it till the battery is too weak, you're walking home.
 
Looks good. Any idea how many miles the oil had been in? Does the Q-Link have
an oil change reminder on the dash like the Helix....its a simple roller that when set is green and when it turns to red its time to change. I think it rolls around every
1000-1200 miles.
 
No idea on miles on oil.

It has the oil change minder, but I cant figure out how to reset it.
 
Originally Posted By: Jarlaxle
No idea on miles on oil.

It has the oil change minder, but I cant figure out how to reset it.


Underneath the minder you'll see a small rubber covered slot; stick your key in and gently push. That resets the roller.
 
Oh well, you know at what miles it was changed, so I'd recommend you change it at 1500 miles. With no filter, and running the motor nearly wide open much of the time....at least I did with the 3 Helix'es I had....I opted for frequent changes. These were Japanese motors in mine, so I don't know how the Chinese ones will fare in the long run. Oil is cheap and they...the Helix..held less than a quart.
 
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