2007 Mercury Grand Marquis 4.6L | Valvoline Daily Protection 5W20 4,500 mi

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Mar 29, 2017
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AL
Hi, everyone. Here is my latest UOA on the Grand Marquis. If you look at this report and past analyses, you'll see this one did not come out looking that great. Not sure what happened this time around, but aluminum increased quite a bit. I hope this isn't a sign of something going wrong. Drove the car same as I always do, in this interval. Is it possible this is just a one time thing? Did I somehow contaminate the new oil filter during the last oil change, without realizing it, or something (if I did, then I don't know how, but I suppose anything is possible)? I have OCD, so when I see things like this, it's as dramatic to me as a nuclear bomb going off in my back yard. But, I've never seen any of my other vehicles have this much of a sudden change. I'm going to do a bit shorter interval this time around to see if wear improves on a PPM per mile basis. Thanks for any replies.

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In no way is it time to panic. All the metals are fine. The uptick in Al and Fe may or may not be an indicator; could just be a random spike.

Run another 4.5k miles on this OCI and take another UOA. If the aluminum and/or iron is still trending up, then it's time for deeper investigation.
 
What filter did you use? Just speculating but if you had the Motorcraft FL-820S, the media could've torn causing more particles in the system

Compared to the universal averages, you're only 1 PPM off. That doesnt seem like much to me.

Mind you these engines were abused for taxis in NYC and still lasted up to 300K miles. I wouldnt worry about it.
 
Thanks @dnewton3 and @A_User55555

And yes, I use the FL820S. I've heard about the torn media issue before. "There's a first time for everything", as they say. This would be mine. I shoulda kept it and cut it open. Didn't think about it.

Also, I doubt it will make much (if any) difference, but I did change oil brands this time around to Kendall on this car, because I can get it so much easier. Wally World's stock of Valvoline DP is a hit or miss. This was actually going to be my last UOA on this car for a while, but since this happened, I'm definitely going to keep an eye on it for a bit.
 
Falls within margin of error. could also be a filter problem as others mention. But i just assume everyone runs an ultra or similar. I'd run again same mileage but why not just run a 30 grade. These engines can run up to a 50 grade in other countries but the hths of even a normal 30 would be nice. Would hardly affect fuel economy.
 
Falls within margin of error. could also be a filter problem as others mention. But i just assume everyone runs an ultra or similar. I'd run again same mileage but why not just run a 30 grade. These engines can run up to a 50 grade in other countries but the hths of even a normal 30 would be nice. Would hardly affect fuel economy.
Falls within margin of error. could also be a filter problem as others mention. But i just assume everyone runs an ultra or similar. I'd run again same mileage but why not just run a 30 grade. These engines can run up to a 50 grade in other countries but the hths of even a normal 30 would be nice. Would hardly affect fuel economy.
I suppose it’s just inertia. I’ve been running 20w in my 3 valve 5.4L V8 as well for mire than 200k miles and if it works and shows good results, I just don’t have any desire to change it.
 
I wouldn't be sweating "parts per million" increase of 2 and 2 respectively. I could understand if the comparison numbers were high and this UOA showed additional increases, but it doesn't. I don't feel I'm a "thickie" per se but IMO that engine would do well with same oil in 5-30 flavor, no?
 
Definitely run the new oil and filter, which I assume are the same spec and brand, out to your next oil change. Based on your history, that is maybe going to be in September. At that oil change, you are looking for iron and aluminum to settle down to their usual levels. My guess would be that you have contamination, or that the lab test was in error. As others have said, the numbers are small, but it would have my attention, too, as they are up 100% from the usual. Regardless, there is little to be done other than drive. Most likely, this will be fine. The shorter interval does not make sense. The levels are too low to cause any further damage, and a short interval may mask identification of a problem, which is again, unlikely.
 
Definitely run the new oil and filter, which I assume are the same spec and brand, out to your next oil change. Based on your history, that is maybe going to be in September. At that oil change, you are looking for iron and aluminum to settle down to their usual levels. My guess would be that you have contamination, or that the lab test was in error. As others have said, the numbers are small, but it would have my attention, too, as they are up 100% from the usual. Regardless, there is little to be done other than drive. Most likely, this will be fine. The shorter interval does not make sense. The levels are too low to cause any further damage, and a short interval may mask identification of a problem, which is again, unlikely.
Yeah, I think it may be contamination, as well. I keep wondering if I caused it. This again is just my OCD coming up with random theories to explain this, but I know when I am installing the filter, the filter kind of has to be pushed through some really tight areas around hydraulic lines on the steering rack. I'm wondering if some loose dirt on those lines ended up getting jarred loose and fell into the filter somehow. I don't know. I'm a nut, lol. The torn media theory people have suggested sounds plausible, too. Maybe my contamination could've came from there? Probably going to end up changing over to WIX filters for good, after this.
 
Yeah, I think it may be contamination, as well. I keep wondering if I caused it. This again is just my OCD coming up with random theories to explain this, but I know when I am installing the filter, the filter kind of has to be pushed through some really tight areas around hydraulic lines on the steering rack. I'm wondering if some loose dirt on those lines ended up getting jarred loose and fell into the filter somehow. I don't know. I'm a nut, lol. The torn media theory people have suggested sounds plausible, too. Maybe my contamination could've came from there? Probably going to end up changing over to WIX filters for good, after this.
No argument on the Wix filter. Not that you are chasing down anything necessarily, but if you are doing oil analysis, I would suggest springing for a full synthetic 0 W 20. I bet you the cost of Quaker State or Pennzoil is not meaningfully different than that Kendall blend. You seem to have enough of typical BITOG oil fixation to get some utility out of knowing that you have full-syn in the sump.
 
First off............The Grandmarquis has 6qt oil capacity. You can run 5k and still have a factory new looking engine. I'd probably not go 7k with the little driving you do. However I do see one thing that stands out. Your interval was done over the winter, and albeit you most likely do not experiance the cold like we do up north, it no doubt contributed to a slight increase in cold start wear.

Also your increase in wear is in parts per million. 3 and 2 ppm increase is nothing more than a "change" .
 
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