2007 Focus clutch goes to the floor

[KrisZ]

Hey, I need some help.

I recently acquired a 2007 5spd manual transmission. The owner was selling it because the clutch pedal is going to the floor. There is no resistance to it so it is a hydraulic problem. The brake pedal plunger, which sits right next to the clutch master cylinder was a bit wet and also the connector to the slave cylinder was wet.

When I filled up the system and tried to bleed it, it wasn't creating much flow, so I changed the clutch master cylinder. Now it flows better and I actually could bleed the system, but there is a small drip on the connector that goes to the slave cylinder when the pedal is being pushed during bleeding, it drips ever few seconds and the pedal has still little resistance, although at the very bottom of the travel I can feel some pressure.

Now a question for the Ford guys, did you ever encounter this? Do I have to change the whole slave cylinder, or is it the connector on the line? I removed it and it has an o-ring that seems normal to me and not damaged.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

How is the clutch itself?

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
How is the clutch itself?

When I first brought it home I push started it and drove it around my neighborhood, got it to 4th gear up and down and I detected no slippage and it operated normally.

 

[DerbyDave]

I had a 2002 focus that developed a leaky clutch slave cylinder. After replacing the slave cylinder I could not get it to bleed the conventional way no matter how much I pumped the pedal and added fluid. I ended up reverse bleeding the system using a 60 cc syringe and length of clear vinyl hose attached to the bleeder screw. I drew fluid out of the reservoir to allow for the incoming fluid during reverse bleeding and then attached the syringe and hose to the bleeder and injected fluid into the system forcing fluid and trapped air up and into the reservoir. It only took one try and I finally had a firm pedal.

 

[Dufus2]

I bought a yellow plastic pump oil can on ebay (looks like it was from Harbor Freight) and use it to reverse bleed brakes with some vinyl tubing, its easy to do and just loop the tubing to allow a bubble to form to keep any air from entering the system.

 

[14Accent]

Any leak needs to be addressed. Is the line from the master to the slave a separate piece? If it is, I would replace it, if it is.

As for bleeding, it's become a real chore with the concentric slave cylinders. The old-school technique of pump and crack doesn't really work. The best bet is the reverse bleed, as mentioned above. However, instead of the syringe method I usually use the driver's front caliper.

I attach a hose to the caliper bleeder, purge the hose of air by having a helper push the brake pedal while I crack the bleeder, then attach the hose to the clutch bleed screw. Open the caliper bleeder, open the clutch bleeder, and press lightly on the brake pedal. The brake system fluid will push backwards into the clutch system, forcing air out the reservoir. Do this 2 or 3 times, seal the clutch system, and quick bleed the LF caliper to remove any left over air. Works every time.

 

[KrisZ]

UPDATE!

I was able to fix the clutch. It turned out that the quick connect fitting, that goes to the slave cylinder, was not making proper contact and sealing for some reason. I don't know why, as the o-ring and the connector looked fine, but when I took it out and connected the same type of fitting from the other, good side into the slave cylinder, it went in with noticeable resistance, I could feel the o-ring dragging, while the bad one would slide in very easily. I suspect the o-ring became oval shaped.

I highlighted the end which was leaking and a close up of the connector.

 

[WyrTwister]

Congratulations ! Glad to hear you got ir repaired .

 

[George7941]

My truck has quick disconnect fittings on the clutch hydraulic lines and a special tool helps in disconnection. The Ford fitting looks like it is retained in place by a clip engaging the large groove.

These QD fittings are troublesome but their advantage is that they do not introduce air into the system while connecting or disconnecting. If a prebled master cylinder is being installed, the instructions call for just hooking the line up, no need for bleeding the system.

Edit: I took another look at the Ford fitting and it does not have a flat face like the GM one does, so the Ford fitting will introduce air into the system and bleeding will be necessary..

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted by George7941
My truck has quick disconnect fittings on the clutch hydraulic lines and a special tool helps in disconnection. The Ford fitting looks like it is retained in place by a clip engaging the large groove.

These QD fittings are troublesome but their advantage is that they do not introduce air into the system while connecting or disconnecting. If a prebled master cylinder is being installed, the instructions call for just hooking the line up, no need for bleeding the system.

Edit: I took another look at the Ford fitting and it does not have a flat face like the GM one does, so the Ford fitting will introduce air into the system and bleeding will be necessary..



Yeah, these fittings are held by a small wire clip that can be removed with a small flat head screwdriver. It does not self close, so bleeding is definitely required.

This is done purely for quick assembly at the factory. If you leave the clip in the female connector, you just need to push in the male connector and the clip will automatically lock in. The new master cylinder came in like this, it was nice assembling it back together, but removing these clips was a bit of a pain.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Congratulations ! Glad to hear you got ir repaired .


Thanks! I was afraid the female connection on the slave cylinder side was bad and causing a leak, but I'm so glad it was the line. Lol