2007 Dodge Grand Caravan - Front Strut Assemblies

[KEVINK0000]

I have some recent experience for you on the same vehicle, except it’s a ‘07 T&C.

Went with 4 KYB dampers first, was ok until one aluminum spring perch cracked, and I had to find a quick solution, so went with KYB quick struts up front. Worked well except for coil bind when hitting deep dips when loaded. Damping was OK, not great. I started looking for better. Not easy.

Decided to go to Sachs all around, using the factory (270k) springs in front. Very good combo, very happy with the results. We use this as our road trip vehicle, and anything that seems out of line mechanically becomes a pebble in my shoe on a long trip.

Sachs is the best quality available for this platform in my opinion.

Be ready with 4 spring compressors to do the job. It was the most difficult strut I have done.

Make sure you are aware of the spring alignment before you go into it. I didn’t get it quite right and had to do over. The stock hats were very thin aluminum, buy some aftermarket, they are thicker. No issues.

 

[Number_35]

I have some recent experience for you on the same vehicle, except it’s a ‘07 T&C.

Went with 4 KYB dampers first, was ok until one aluminum spring perch cracked, and I had to find a quick solution, so went with KYB quick struts up front. Worked well except for coil bind when hitting deep dips when loaded. Damping was OK, not great. I started looking for better. Not easy.

Decided to go to Sachs all around, using the factory (270k) springs in front. Very good combo, very happy with the results. We use this as our road trip vehicle, and anything that seems out of line mechanically becomes a pebble in my shoe on a long trip.

Sachs is the best quality available for this platform in my opinion.

Be ready with 4 spring compressors to do the job. It was the most difficult strut I have done.

Make sure you are aware of the spring alignment before you go into it. I didn’t get it quite right and had to do over. The stock hats were very thin aluminum, buy some aftermarket, they are thicker. No issues.

I have two pairs of spring compressors, which makes it easier.

 

[Number_35]

I'm not sure if this is the right product - as far as I know, the van has standard suspension.

Where would I find the three-letter code (Zxx)? Is it part of the VIN?

 

[The Critic]

Reality is, most shock/strut replacements are completely unnecessary. Unless the vehicle is obviously bottoming out or the absorber has visibly leaked a large amount of fluid, it is difficult to scientifically validate the need for replacement.

A lot of folks claim their vehicles ride "better" after replacement; the vehicle may simply be riding differently (and to that person's liking) due to the different ride characteristics of the aftermarket shock or strut that was installed.

 

[Number_35]

Reality is, most shock/strut replacements are completely unnecessary. Unless the vehicle is obviously bottoming out or the absorber has visibly leaked a large amount of fluid, it is difficult to scientifically validate the need for replacement.

A lot of folks claim their vehicles ride "better" after replacement; the vehicle may simply be riding differently (and to that person's liking) due to the different ride characteristics of the aftermarket shock or strut that was installed.

There are clunks and rattles coming from the front end. I replaced the stabilizer-bar end links (which got rid of some of the noise), but there's something else going on. There's no discernible play in the ball joints, tie-rod ends, or stabilizer-bar bushings. The CV boots are intact.

I've concluded the struts are worn out because I'm out of other ideas. I admit that this is a diagnosis of exclusion.

It could be just the strut mounts, or the isolating rubber pieces.

 

[KEVINK0000]

Reality is, most shock/strut replacements are completely unnecessary. Unless the vehicle is obviously bottoming out or the absorber has visibly leaked a large amount of fluid, it is difficult to scientifically validate the need for replacement.

A lot of folks claim their vehicles ride "better" after replacement; the vehicle may simply be riding differently (and to that person's liking) due to the different ride characteristics of the aftermarket shock or strut that was installed.

Interesting statement, but I beg to differ. In my experience a lot of OEM stuff is more than 50 percent gone (damping) at 100k miles, sometimes even more than that. Also I have taken more than one vehicle for alignment and was told the struts were allowing such movement in the shaft that it wouldn’t be wise to proceed with the alignment until they were replaced. These didn’t feel completely sacked and not leaking fluid. I could go on and on. As a counterpoint I’ll go further: any OEM suspension has lived its life and should be replaced after 150k miles regardless of manufacturer. This is assuming there are no blatant faults like noise, leaks, etc. that would indicate replacement by themselves.

 

[zzyzzx]

I would expect any wholesaler closeout shocks or struts to be old and bad out of the box.

 

[The Critic]

Interesting statement, but I beg to differ. In my experience a lot of OEM stuff is more than 50 percent gone (damping) at 100k miles, sometimes even more than that.

Subjectively, I understand where you're coming from. But it's subjective -- how are you supporting that statement? Dampening feel has a lot of factors -- is some of the dampening loss due to bushings that aged and became harder? A vehicle with 100K miles is unlikely to have the OE tire -- replacement tires often have different ride quality characteristics as well.

Also I have taken more than one vehicle for alignment and was told the struts were allowing such movement in the shaft that it wouldn’t be wise to proceed with the alignment until they were replaced.

I call baloney on that one....unless the vehicle was obviously bottoming out on every speed bump.

As a counterpoint I’ll go further: any OEM suspension has lived its life and should be replaced after 150k miles regardless of manufacturer. This is assuming there are no blatant faults like noise, leaks, etc. that would indicate replacement by themselves.

150K may very well be the "intended lifespan" of factory dampers but actual service life will depend on driving conditions. I have driven plenty of vehicles with 150K on the original dampeners that subjectively felt just fine.

 

[KEVINK0000]

Subjectively, I understand where you're coming from. But it's subjective -- how are you supporting that statement? Dampening feel has a lot of factors -- is some of the dampening loss due to bushings that aged and became harder? A vehicle with 100K miles is unlikely to have the OE tire -- replacement tires often have different ride quality characteristics as well.


I call baloney on that one....unless the vehicle was obviously bottoming out on every speed bump.


150K may very well be the "intended lifespan" of factory dampers but actual service life will depend on driving conditions. I have driven plenty of vehicles with 150K on the original dampeners that subjectively felt just fine.

Well this was a waste of time. Think whatever you would like to think. Our experience differs, I will be charitable and leave it at that.

 

[The Critic]

Well this was a waste of time. Think whatever you would like to think. Our experience differs, I will be charitable and leave it at that.

I didn't realize we were obligated to agree with your subjective findings...

 

[The_Eric]

Subjectively, I understand where you're coming from. But it's subjective -- how are you supporting that statement? Dampening feel has a lot of factors -- is some of the dampening loss due to bushings that aged and became harder? A vehicle with 100K miles is unlikely to have the OE tire -- replacement tires often have different ride quality characteristics as well.


I call baloney on that one....unless the vehicle was obviously bottoming out on every speed bump.


150K may very well be the "intended lifespan" of factory dampers but actual service life will depend on driving conditions. I have driven plenty of vehicles with 150K on the original dampeners that subjectively felt just fine.

I wonder how much of your experience with shocks/struts is influenced by your roads, climates, make/model of car and customer? IWO a conservative customer driving a premium vehicle on good roads in good weather conditions?

I've seen plenty of dampers that were sacked by 100-150k. Rattles, unevenly worn tires and hammered suspension bushings were the indicators. But my customers tend to drive cheaper or middle of the road vehicles and have to drive on crap roads in crap conditions.

 

[D60]

I wonder how much of your experience with shocks/struts is influenced by your roads, climates, make/model of car and customer? IWO a conservative customer driving a premium vehicle on good roads in good weather conditions?

I've seen plenty of dampers that were sacked by 100-150k. Rattles, unevenly worn tires and hammered suspension bushings were the indicators. But my customers tend to drive cheaper or middle of the road vehicles and have to drive on crap roads in crap conditions.

"Live in California for a year, but leave before it makes you soft" ??

Seriously, I do think struts can "weaken" with age but not leak. However I also agree it's difficult to measure unless you replace like for like AND have some way to measure performance other than the butt bounce dyno.

I'm loathe to reco shocks or struts unless they're gushing oil or making a LOT of noise. And I always tell customers if they're leaking but follow up with, "If you don't have any complaints with how the vehicle drives it may not be necessary to do anything."

Technically it's a safety issue but I believe personal responsibility is a thing. But yeah wasboard dirt roads will wake you up quick if your shocks are toast, esp on live axles.....you just start walking sideways to the ditch. I think The Critic's HOA has outlawed anything with a solid axle

 

[KEVINK0000]

Who is we?

I didn't realize we were obligated to agree with your subjective findings...