By mid February my Corolla will click to 45,000 miles. I have decided to go with GC 0w-30 and a taller PureOne filter. The tranny will have the pan dropped, t-iv fluid, and ill be installing a magnefine filter to the return line. At 30000 mile's I just did a drain and fill to the at. I might replace the PCV valve. Gonna rotate the tires too.. Anything else I'm missing...Check air filter....I was shopping for oil once at wal mart and one of the service guys came in with a filter that had sucked up a small bird or there was a rats nest in it....
2007 Corolla 45,000mile servicing
- Thread starter Big_Kat
- Start date
- Status
Have you replaced the cabin air filter?
A brake fluid flush if it hasn't been done.
Originally Posted By: Billbert
A brake fluid flush if it hasn't been done.
Out of curiosity, why?
I never have any brake issues, and I don't ever replace it unless it has to be done (IE brake bleeding, etc) I've never seen the point, and never had an issue. 45,000mi seems really low to me, to worry about such things.
A brake fluid flush if it hasn't been done.
Out of curiosity, why?
I never have any brake issues, and I don't ever replace it unless it has to be done (IE brake bleeding, etc) I've never seen the point, and never had an issue. 45,000mi seems really low to me, to worry about such things.
replace the cabin filter in November and found a comb when I took out the glove box??? Previous owner must be missing something lol. The reason I want to drop the pan is to clean the magnets. Will do the break fluid flush. All I got to do it start at the passenger side rear and work my way closer to the master cylinder right? Would using DOT 4 work better than DOT 3?? At the rate im going now i am averaging 18000-20000mile/year. Ive put 13000 on it since I got it April of last year...
Last edited:
Quote:
I might replace the PCV valve
They are about $7. FWIW, I just replaced mine @ 190K miles for the first time and it clearly didn't need replacing. There wasn't a spot of accumulation on it.
I might replace the PCV valve
They are about $7. FWIW, I just replaced mine @ 190K miles for the first time and it clearly didn't need replacing. There wasn't a spot of accumulation on it.
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
Quote:
I might replace the PCV valve
They are about $7. FWIW, I just replaced mine @ 190K miles for the first time and it clearly didn't need replacing. There wasn't a spot of accumulation on it.
Really depends on the car.. I have to check mine every month or so, it starts to get gummy pretty fast.
Quote:
I might replace the PCV valve
They are about $7. FWIW, I just replaced mine @ 190K miles for the first time and it clearly didn't need replacing. There wasn't a spot of accumulation on it.
Really depends on the car.. I have to check mine every month or so, it starts to get gummy pretty fast.
45k I would do the following:
1. trans cooler line fluid exchange. If the trans doesn't have a serviceable filter you are wasting time & money dropping the pan before 100k IF you do a fluid exchange.
2. replace air filter
3. replace cabin air filter
4. inspect brakes, fluid flush only needed at reline. If the pads have been replaced assume no flush was done and flush otherwise wait until reline.
5. extract/refill power steering pump 2-3 timse with some driving in between.
6. clean fuel system with techron in gas tank
7. inspect coolant & belts
8. clean pcv valve
Keep driving.
1. trans cooler line fluid exchange. If the trans doesn't have a serviceable filter you are wasting time & money dropping the pan before 100k IF you do a fluid exchange.
2. replace air filter
3. replace cabin air filter
4. inspect brakes, fluid flush only needed at reline. If the pads have been replaced assume no flush was done and flush otherwise wait until reline.
5. extract/refill power steering pump 2-3 timse with some driving in between.
6. clean fuel system with techron in gas tank
7. inspect coolant & belts
8. clean pcv valve
Keep driving.
Last edited:
Drain the Rad and resovoir and refill 1 gallon of premixed Ultra Long Life assuming you have the pink stuff will do the job.
Adjust the rear break shoes.
Would use anything but T-IV in the trans!!! Maxlife works great as does M1 and DexVI etc.....
With cold engine not having been run yet that day check the plugs. If you wait till 120K to check them sometimes you can gaul or strip the threads just trying to get them out after being in that long. If you do not feel comfortable doing that it is ok though.
Airfilter OEM or Puralator M1 0W40 in real world will give better additive package and better fuel economy then GC 0W30.
Look for rust,drips and weeps.....Check CV boots all the way around for tears.Check all hoses,belts,springs etc.....
It is normaly a good time to drain and refill the power steering and brake res.....
The reason the M1 gives better fuel ecconomy as a 0W40 over GC's 0W30 is because it shears to a thinner 0W30 then GC which is on the thick side and tends not to shear. You would have to put over 10K miles on the M1 0W40 to bring it back to grade. I just clean my PCV and check for functioning but if you are not useing a lot of oil and the air fox filter is not covered in oil then the PCV is normaly good. Most OEM Toyota PCV's are built like brick out house's and go for along time before needing to be replaced. They are cheap though so it is not like you are going to bleed money if you decide to replace it.
I pick up two cans of the SIlver GRay colored tin cans of TOyota Brand Fuel INjector CLeaner it is the strongest stuff that I know of that one can pt into the tank that is safe to use.Generaly anything stronger has to go into the fuel rail good stuff but under sold!
Adjust the rear break shoes.
Would use anything but T-IV in the trans!!! Maxlife works great as does M1 and DexVI etc.....
With cold engine not having been run yet that day check the plugs. If you wait till 120K to check them sometimes you can gaul or strip the threads just trying to get them out after being in that long. If you do not feel comfortable doing that it is ok though.
Airfilter OEM or Puralator M1 0W40 in real world will give better additive package and better fuel economy then GC 0W30.
Look for rust,drips and weeps.....Check CV boots all the way around for tears.Check all hoses,belts,springs etc.....
It is normaly a good time to drain and refill the power steering and brake res.....
The reason the M1 gives better fuel ecconomy as a 0W40 over GC's 0W30 is because it shears to a thinner 0W30 then GC which is on the thick side and tends not to shear. You would have to put over 10K miles on the M1 0W40 to bring it back to grade. I just clean my PCV and check for functioning but if you are not useing a lot of oil and the air fox filter is not covered in oil then the PCV is normaly good. Most OEM Toyota PCV's are built like brick out house's and go for along time before needing to be replaced. They are cheap though so it is not like you are going to bleed money if you decide to replace it.
I pick up two cans of the SIlver GRay colored tin cans of TOyota Brand Fuel INjector CLeaner it is the strongest stuff that I know of that one can pt into the tank that is safe to use.Generaly anything stronger has to go into the fuel rail good stuff but under sold!
The trans filter is just a screen type with three bolts attaching it to the valve body. Right before winter I made sure all chips in the paint were touched up. Thanks for reminding me to do it again
. I also plan on changing to a gator back belt as this one is original and it chirps when cold or humid out...Air filter was put in last july will check it. When I changed the oil in lake November it was still white.
As for the brake fluid, six of one, half dozen of another. DOT 3 will work just fine. DOT 4 will work just fine. Get a large bottle or whatever so you have enough. You will be surprised at just how bad the old stuff looks vs the new, even with only 45k on it.
Originally Posted By: Big_Kat
ok thanks i just remember somebody sawing the dot 4 was more water resistant.
My experiences have shown DOT4 lasts longer and resists boiling more.
ok thanks i just remember somebody sawing the dot 4 was more water resistant.
My experiences have shown DOT4 lasts longer and resists boiling more.
Clean the throttle body and MAF... intake manifold if you know how. I wish I had done this sooner. Because I instantly noticed more HP in my 05 Corolla.
Replace the PSF there is a nice DIY on Toyota nation.
I personally prefer thinner oils rather than thick oils like GC. Again more HP.
Replace the PSF there is a nice DIY on Toyota nation.
I personally prefer thinner oils rather than thick oils like GC. Again more HP.
Last edited:
For the brake fluid, it's more of a time dimension rather than usage. Brake fluid absorbs moisture
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Originally Posted By: Billbert
A brake fluid flush if it hasn't been done.
Out of curiosity, why?
I never have any brake issues, and I don't ever replace it unless it has to be done (IE brake bleeding, etc) I've never seen the point, and never had an issue. 45,000mi seems really low to me, to worry about such things.
For the brake fluid, it's more of a time dimension rather than usage. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and it is recommended to replace every three years.
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Originally Posted By: Billbert
A brake fluid flush if it hasn't been done.
Out of curiosity, why?
I never have any brake issues, and I don't ever replace it unless it has to be done (IE brake bleeding, etc) I've never seen the point, and never had an issue. 45,000mi seems really low to me, to worry about such things.
For the brake fluid, it's more of a time dimension rather than usage. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and it is recommended to replace every three years.
Originally Posted By: cjhepburn
For the brake fluid, it's more of a time dimension rather than usage. Brake fluid absorbs moisture
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Originally Posted By: Billbert
A brake fluid flush if it hasn't been done.
Out of curiosity, why?
I never have any brake issues, and I don't ever replace it unless it has to be done (IE brake bleeding, etc) I've never seen the point, and never had an issue. 45,000mi seems really low to me, to worry about such things.
For the brake fluid, it's more of a time dimension rather than usage. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and it is recommended to replace every three years.
The brake fluid flush seems just like another unecessary cash cow thing for the dealer...I did do it on my 05 but then again I never did it on any other car...I owned a 88 Town Car and never did a brake fluid flush or power steering flush and all went well for 11 years and 300K miles.
For the brake fluid, it's more of a time dimension rather than usage. Brake fluid absorbs moisture
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Originally Posted By: Billbert
A brake fluid flush if it hasn't been done.
Out of curiosity, why?
I never have any brake issues, and I don't ever replace it unless it has to be done (IE brake bleeding, etc) I've never seen the point, and never had an issue. 45,000mi seems really low to me, to worry about such things.
For the brake fluid, it's more of a time dimension rather than usage. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and it is recommended to replace every three years.
The brake fluid flush seems just like another unecessary cash cow thing for the dealer...I did do it on my 05 but then again I never did it on any other car...I owned a 88 Town Car and never did a brake fluid flush or power steering flush and all went well for 11 years and 300K miles.
Originally Posted By: CROWNVIC4LIFE
The brake fluid flush seems just like another unecessary cash cow thing for the dealer...I did do it on my 05 but then again I never did it on any other car...I owned a 88 Town Car and never did a brake fluid flush or power steering flush and all went well for 11 years and 300K miles.
So you were lucky. But did you ever drive that Town Car more than 12 mph? Does that make it an unnecessary part of PM for the industry? No. Do some reading on why to flush your brakes as there are several very good reasons. One is safety and the other is longer lasting calipers. Both very good reasons.
The brake fluid flush seems just like another unecessary cash cow thing for the dealer...I did do it on my 05 but then again I never did it on any other car...I owned a 88 Town Car and never did a brake fluid flush or power steering flush and all went well for 11 years and 300K miles.
So you were lucky. But did you ever drive that Town Car more than 12 mph? Does that make it an unnecessary part of PM for the industry? No. Do some reading on why to flush your brakes as there are several very good reasons. One is safety and the other is longer lasting calipers. Both very good reasons.
Here's what I'll do:
Change Oil
Install Magnefine Filter to trans and do a drain refill
clean maf and tb
ps fluid was turkey baster drawn out in november and mobil1 synthetic put in still have about 1/3 bottle left might do it again
check intake filter
rotate tires
i might wait till summer to do the brake fluid flush
Change Oil
Install Magnefine Filter to trans and do a drain refill
clean maf and tb
ps fluid was turkey baster drawn out in november and mobil1 synthetic put in still have about 1/3 bottle left might do it again
check intake filter
rotate tires
i might wait till summer to do the brake fluid flush
Wellmost of us on this site do not pay others to do our work for us. SO since most of us are DIY'ers flushing the brake fluid cost's about $4 for a tall bottle of brake fluid from AutoZOne.
- Status
