2007 4Runner 4.0L V6 oil thoughts?

[ZebRuaj]

Oh great Bitog-ists, I seek for your thoughts and comments!

2007 4Runner with the 1GR(V6) currently at 144k. Picked it up with 140k on the odometer with bulk small dealer oil and Napa Silver filter. Was told it was serviced then placed on the lot. Auto check showed 1 owner with 5-7k OCI thru quicklube places. I replaced it with M1 5w30 and Fram Ultra along with other fluids when I got it home for peace of mind. Does not currently show any signs of oil consumption. I was planning for 7-8k OCI with this M1.

Short 10-15 min drives through town for work, 10-20 min drives when hauling the family around. Occasional weekend trip out of town. I do tow a small trailer for yardwork when needed.

I inherited a stash of PurolatorONE filters from a buddy. Will use those up then probably go to OEM Toyota Filters.

Questions:
-Would you switch over to HM oils nearing 150k miles as preventative maintenance? I picked up Maxlife (with rebate) as I had used up the rebates for M1 and PP for the family's fleet. Or ride it out with whatever conventional/syn oil I please until I notice an oil leak/oil consumption?

-Toyota would later change specs on the 1GR motor with a TSB to 5w-20 like the rest of the automotive world. The RAV4 in the garage specs 5w-20 also. Should I change up to 5w-20 to ease oil purchases and the extra 1qt bottle purchases? (Rav4 uses ~4.5 qts, 4Runner uses 5.5 qts).

Thanks all!

 

[crazyoildude]

5w30 Mobil 1 is a good oil choice but i would use a good filter like the ultra.

 

[OneEyeJack]

The high mileage threshold at 75K is just marketing. My V8 4Runner is at almost to 160K and there are not signs of oil burning or any age related problems showing up. I run a synthetic 0w-30 and have no plans on running any high mileage oil or using any additives. Don't fix things that are not broken.

 

[CT8]

What will the high mile oil prevent.

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

Mobil I 0W-30 or 5W-30 and OEM Denso filters.

 

[92saturnsl2]

I would hesitate in switching back and forth between regular and HM oils. If the engine doesn't leak or burn an abnormal quantity of oil, stick with conventional or synthetic. I'd base that choice on expected drain interval. 5-7k, conventional is up to the task (or consult your owners manual.) Above 7k, you might consider synthetic.

My personal choice is Havoline / Chevron for conventional. I like Mobil 1 or Castrol for Synthetic. I would venture to guess that almost all premium synthetics are created equal, however; all great oils. 5w-30 winter/year round or even 10w-30 in warmer temps.

 

[jongies3]

I don't think Toyota ever changed the oil spec on those, the 1GR still called for 5W-30 all the way up to 2015 in the Tacoma. It was probably the last Toyota engine to spec it, now they're all going to 0W-20 in everything.

 

[BrocLuno]

HM oils don't hurt anything. They can't "swell" a seal beyond it's original MFG dimensions. It can make things a bit more pliable and flexible and that is not a bad thing. They also have pretty strong add paks so that's a plus.

Some in the high performance community run HM oils from the get go. Maxlife is sort of VR-1 Lite. Since VR-1 is no longer available in the Kalifornia Kollective any longer, some hot motor boys (mostly) are switching to readily available Maxlife instead.

It's your choice. Do what you want. There are many "oil camps" here. And if you feel some affinity towards a brand, do it. I don't use M1 in anything. Every time I have tried, it has done something to annoy me (like cold start noise, etc.)... But, I do own XOM stock. So the more you buy, the happier I am

 

[Bryanccfshr]

Originally Posted By: jongies3
I don't think Toyota ever changed the oil spec on those, the 1GR still called for 5W-30 all the way up to 2015 in the Tacoma. It was probably the last Toyota engine to spec it, now they're all going to 0W-20 in everything.


There are two generations of the 1gr-fe engine. 1st generation had the old cam on bucket valvetraintnwith vvti on the intake valves only, the oil filter is mounted on the top side of the engine. This was originally specked for 5w30

In 2010 an update arrived in the FJ cruiser, and 4Runner having a modern rollerized valvetrain, dual vvti and a cartridge filter on the bottom due to loss of real estate on the top of the engine with the addition of dual Vvti . 0w20 was recomended from the get go in the ilsac countries.

in Australia they always recomend a3 since ilsac is not mainstream there and that guarantees a minimal oil quality. What that tells me is to base the minimum viscosity that is safe to run on USA recommendations but the upper end of viscosity could be a3 oils if you tow a lot or worry the engine hard.
I could run Mobil 0w20 afe to Castrol 0w40 in my FJ and I wouldn't worry about either doing the job. With the taco engine the 0w30 afe would be the floor for me due to the valvetrain.

Basicly these engines are world engines and they will run well and long on a variety of engine lubes appropriate to the climate and conditions.

 

[ARB1977]

Currently running M1 extended performance 5W30 in my 2015 Tacoma with a Toyota filter.

 

[WhoKnows]

The only reason to pick a Xw-30 oil is that you're towing a trailer.
1gr runs good on Xw-20 without any criminal in UOA, especially in short town trips.

 

[Oregoonian]

+1....especially during those cold MN winters..... 0w20 might even better for winter use. Your plan to use 5w20 (or 0w20).....should work just fine year round....since that is what Toyota recommends.

Unless its using oil or dripping.....HM oil is not needed.

Originally Posted By: ZebRuaj
Oh great Bitog-ists, I seek for your thoughts and comments!

2007 4Runner with the 1GR(V6) currently at 144k. Picked it up with 140k on the odometer with bulk small dealer oil and Napa Silver filter. Was told it was serviced then placed on the lot. Auto check showed 1 owner with 5-7k OCI thru quicklube places. I replaced it with M1 5w30 and Fram Ultra along with other fluids when I got it home for peace of mind. Does not currently show any signs of oil consumption. I was planning for 7-8k OCI with this M1.

Short 10-15 min drives through town for work, 10-20 min drives when hauling the family around. Occasional weekend trip out of town. I do tow a small trailer for yardwork when needed.

I inherited a stash of PurolatorONE filters from a buddy. Will use those up then probably go to OEM Toyota Filters.

Questions:
-Would you switch over to HM oils nearing 150k miles as preventative maintenance? I picked up Maxlife (with rebate) as I had used up the rebates for M1 and PP for the family's fleet. Or ride it out with whatever conventional/syn oil I please until I notice an oil leak/oil consumption?

-Toyota would later change specs on the 1GR motor with a TSB to 5w-20 like the rest of the automotive world. The RAV4 in the garage specs 5w-20 also. Should I change up to 5w-20 to ease oil purchases and the extra 1qt bottle purchases? (Rav4 uses ~4.5 qts, 4Runner uses 5.5 qts).

Thanks all!

 

[B320i]

Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr


There are two generations of the 1gr-fe engine. 1st generation had the old cam on bucket valvetraintnwith vvti on the intake valves only, the oil filter is mounted on the top side of the engine. This was originally specked for 5w30

In 2010 an update arrived in the FJ cruiser, and 4Runner having a modern rollerized valvetrain, dual vvti and a cartridge filter on the bottom due to loss of real estate on the top of the engine with the addition of dual Vvti . 0w20 was recomended from the get go in the ilsac countries.

Funny, the 2003 Prado with the 1GR-FE in my family has Dual-VVTi, specs 5w30, 10w30, 15w40 and maybe even 20w50. If I recall correctly, 5w30 was restricted to cold-weather usage only, and not for prolonged towing situations...

 

[Bryanccfshr]

Originally Posted By: B320i
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr


There are two generations of the 1gr-fe engine. 1st generation had the old cam on bucket valvetraintnwith vvti on the intake valves only, the oil filter is mounted on the top side of the engine. This was originally specked for 5w30

In 2010 an update arrived in the FJ cruiser, and 4Runner having a modern rollerized valvetrain, dual vvti and a cartridge filter on the bottom due to loss of real estate on the top of the engine with the addition of dual Vvti . 0w20 was recomended from the get go in the ilsac countries.

Funny, the 2003 Prado with the 1GR-FE in my family has Dual-VVTi, specs 5w30, 10w30, 15w40 and maybe even 20w50. If I recall correctly, 5w30 was restricted to cold-weather usage only, and not for prolonged towing situations...


Yeah I may use Castrol 0w40 in mine. Although the past 6 year 0w20'has not harmed it or been consumed either... it's just a very flexible,engine.

Just to confirm the valve train.. where is the oil filer located on the 2003 Prado?

 

[ZebRuaj]

Thanks guys.

Used to be a boutique oil snob on my previous vehicles and wasted those dollars away. Got married, got a family friendly vehicle and don't have the time or money anymore.

The 1GR is stout and hopefully the truck will outlast what I paid for it. I was spec'ing HM to prolong the life of the motor, but like you'll said, if it ain't leaking, don't bother. I'll use up the Maxlife I already have and then go back to what ever oil is on sale.

 

[B320i]

Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
Just to confirm the valve train.. where is the oil filer located on the 2003 Prado?

Owner's manual confirms 1GR-FE - seeing as you ask, when facing the engine from the front of vehicle, oil filter is on the front RH side of the engine (i.e. "driver's side" in the USA). Sits on about a 45º downward slope.

 

[Bryanccfshr]

Originally Posted By: B320i
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
Just to confirm the valve train.. where is the oil filer located on the 2003 Prado?

Owner's manual confirms 1GR-FE - seeing as you ask, when facing the engine from the front of vehicle, oil filter is on the front RH side of the engine (i.e. "driver's side" in the USA). Sits on about a 45º downward slope.



sorry to be persistent, but to be clear in my understanding what you are describing the open end of the filter face downward and is accessible,from the open hood? Or is it on the bottom and accessible only from below the front bumper or skid plate?
Both descriptions are,1 grfe there are simply two generations of this block with the differences I described before.
If it,is

 

[B320i]

Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr

sorry to be persistent, but to be clear in my understanding what you are describing the open end of the filter face downward and is accessible,from the open hood? Or is it on the bottom and accessible only from below the front bumper or skid plate?
Both descriptions are,1 grfe there are simply two generations of this block with the differences I described before.
If it,is

Yes, the open-end of the filter (i.e. the bit you screw onto the engine) faces downwards

 

[Bryanccfshr]

Originally Posted By: B320i
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr

sorry to be persistent, but to be clear in my understanding what you are describing the open end of the filter face downward and is accessible,from the open hood? Or is it on the bottom and accessible only from below the front bumper or skid plate?
Both descriptions are,1 grfe there are simply two generations of this block with the differences I described before.
If it,is

Yes, the open-end of the filter (i.e. the bit you screw onto the engine) faces downwards

Ok,that's the first generation with the cam on bucket valvetrain, thank you.