2006 Highlander 3.3L 3MZ-FE Heavy Sludge

The problem now is you've disturbed the stuff. As others have mentioned you need to either go all in, or leave it alone.
It's going to create problems as what you have removed won't be all that comes loose.
The ones I've seen pressure washed were very clean under the valve cover, but other goop, and particles show up and fall into the pan, as soon as it's run and the oil starts flowing.
The problem is that stuff will get sucked into the pump intake, and probably block the screen.
Agreed. Any sludge under the valve covers is only a problem when it's blocking the return holes, the PVC or when large pieces come loose and travel through the motor as the OP has discovered. Sludge and buildup are only a problem in a non-direct injection engine when carbon causes the rings to stick in their groves or if it impeeds oil circulation. That's why trying to clean with strong solvents is risky.
 
So, we started with this:
Highlander front cams sludge 2.webp

Highlander dirty valve cover.webp

Highlander Upper Oil pan top.webp



We scraped and vacuumed:
Highlander - front bank 2 post vacuum.webp

Highlander - rear bank 2 post vacuum.webp

Then we took the BG Dynamic Cleaner (5Qts) and ran it at 3000RPM for 45mins.
Immediately drained & changed the filter. Then we ran the BG Rinse for 20mins at 3000RPM, drained, pulled off the filter.


We dropped the oil pan & took off the front bank valve cover and .....

Highlander - front bank post BG cleaner.webp


Highlander - front valve cover1 post BG.webp

Highlander - oil pan top post BG.webp

Highlander - Oil sump post BG.webp


No oil light the entire 1 hour & 5 mins (45 & 20) at 3000 RPM. Happy with how clean it came out.
Reseated the oil pan & waiting for it to cure 24hrs ... Will add new synthetic 5/30 & the MOA with new filter & go from there.
 
@RayPeMan That looks good! I'd keep the party going! If the cost of the Dynamic Engine Cleaner wasn't an issue I'd say do it again after a short OCI.

Then maybe use HPL's EC30 for two 3k oil changes, changing the filter halfway in between. That will probably be as clean as that engine will ever get!
 
Car calls for 5W30 so we used the Chevron 5W30 full synthetic with standard Fram filter ... not burning oil.
Thicker oil? 10W40?
 
2006 Highlander bought on OfferUp two years ago 120K miles .. no maint records… Everything looked great. Runs like a top. We've done Oil changes every 5K w 5W/30 syn blend. Last oil change 160K noticed oil leak though front valve cover. Took it off and found this cake/sludge. Cleaned the cover...air/oil chamber best we could. Didn't touch the sludge. Replaced the oil pressure sensor, pvc valve.
Ran transmission fluid/Seafoam. Put in new oil/filter ... oil light comes on at higher RPMs and goes off when reduced.
Dropped the oil pan & cleaned the intake screen .. still getting sludge/carbon in the filter. Oil light comes on at higher RPM's.

I want to take the valve cover off the front bank again & physically remove some sludge/cake and then run the BG Dynamic Cleaner/Rinse.
I'm not taking off the plenum to get to the back bank ... any other suggestions?

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For the love of God please never ever ever put transmission fluid OR seafoam in your crankcase again! Those things simply can’t do what you’re hoping they will.

I’d say take your normal oil and replace a quart every oil change with HPL EC40, and change filters with a Fram orange at half your OCI (5k OCI = filter at oil change & 2.5k miles). Monitor oil level frequently.

Take pics after about 50k more mileage!
 
So, we started with this:
View attachment 245693
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View attachment 245695


We scraped and vacuumed:
View attachment 245697
View attachment 245698
Then we took the BG Dynamic Cleaner (5Qts) and ran it at 3000RPM for 45mins.
Immediately drained & changed the filter. Then we ran the BG Rinse for 20mins at 3000RPM, drained, pulled off the filter.


We dropped the oil pan & took off the front bank valve cover and .....

View attachment 245702

View attachment 245701
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View attachment 245704

No oil light the entire 1 hour & 5 mins (45 & 20) at 3000 RPM. Happy with how clean it came out.
Reseated the oil pan & waiting for it to cure 24hrs ... Will add new synthetic 5/30 & the MOA with new filter & go from there.

change the oil again in 3k :)

Car calls for 5W30 so we used the Chevron 5W30 full synthetic with standard Fram filter ... not burning oil.
Thicker oil? 10W40?

no need to use thicker oil. 5w30 is fine for the 3MZ. However, you should do a shorter OCI (3-5k) because of the sludge, even though you cleaned it up already, you want to prevent it from happening again.
 
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